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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 04:23 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Sherman Manley
I checked the head for cracks. It was just carbon flaking off and in the pict the contrast makes it look like a crack.



Did some research.
New ford engine 4700
Rebuild mine from a machine shop. Cheapest price quote 4500 to 5000.

I have new head gaskets and tty bolts. Gonna pull other head clean and reinstall. Worst case they don't seal and I am out 300 bucks. Best case I get another couple grand miles out the motor. Then spend the 4700 for the ford replacement.
Sounds like my summer last year. Leaving town for a two week trip with the trailer, barely out of the valley and she hit limp mode. Ended up with slight warp on heads ~.005 and new head gaskets. It was the new replacement radiator in February that was the cause.

I did water pump, fan clutch, 7 blade fan, timing chain, timing tensioners and guides, power steering pump and high pressure hose (unrelated), exhaust bolts, all new motorcraft gaskets and head bolts.

Runs great now, still hurts from the bill. FWIW, my engine had 160k, fairly hard miles (brake controller in it when I bought it, new trans at 40k, and has been in the southwest heat it's whole life). It was a bit cleaner than yours but not much except for less carbon buildup.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 05:39 PM
  #32  
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From: Glenn dale md
How many mile do you have with the new head gaskets?

How was the radiator the cause? Now that u said that I am trying to think of the root cause for my gasket failure. The water pump was good and it never overheated until it burped.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 06:30 PM
  #33  
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Originally Posted by Sherman Manley
How many mile do you have with the new head gaskets?

How was the radiator the cause? Now that u said that I am trying to think of the root cause for my gasket failure. The water pump was good and it never overheated until it burped.
I have about 5000 miles, no heavy towing yet but camping season is a month away so I will work it like a hooker this summer. 10k loaded up hills out of Phoenix.

It was going in and coming out at 220 idling. I couldn't find anything but it wasn't cooling. It would only keep itself cool enough that the idiot gauge didn't alert in the city yet. Hooked a trailer up for memorial day camping and it got hot but I was able to milk it up and down OK. July came and I couldn't even get out of the city. It's currently back with the manufacturer for testing through my claim at the auto parts store.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 03:47 PM
  #34  
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From: Glenn dale md
Had heads pressure tested and checked for trueness. They checked out and I am about to install.

Correct me if I am wrong . But torque sequence is 30 ft lbs. Followed by 90 degree and a second 90 degree
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 03:49 PM
  #35  
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From: Glenn dale md



 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 04:49 PM
  #36  
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thanks for keeping us updated. hoping this works out sweet for you.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 08:16 AM
  #37  
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There it is.

Name:  A8HGYVw.jpg
Views: 206
Size:  215.7 KB
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 08:19 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Sherman Manley
Had heads pressure tested and checked for trueness. They checked out and I am about to install.

Correct me if I am wrong . But torque sequence is 30 ft lbs. Followed by 90 degree and a second 90 degree

Yes, I did the testing and found that the final torque value should be right about 65ft/lbs.
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 09:44 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Snowseeker
There it is.

Always nice to see the evidence. Was the same on mine, crossing over and allowing the gasses into the coolant just enough to heat it up
 
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Old Mar 16, 2016 | 11:25 PM
  #40  
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From: Glenn dale md
Thanks all for the help. I got one head on and have to order new bolts for the other. I thought one set had enough for both sides. Duh.


Anyway is that 65ft/lb for final torque?
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 06:50 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Sherman Manley
Thanks all for the help. I got one head on and have to order new bolts for the other. I thought one set had enough for both sides. Duh.


Anyway is that 65ft/lb for final torque?

You are supposed to follow the specs by ford of 30ft/lbs and then 90 degree turns twice.

I like numbers so I checked and checked and found that the final torque value is right at 65ft/lbs. It is not a recommended torque to set to or anything, just something I found. However I personally after turning every bolt the 180 total degrees did go back and check every one with the torque wrench and did give a couple bolts a little more turn till they clicked the 65ft/lbs. That would be the most I would suggest too, follow the book and then just to check go back with the torque wrench and see where they are all at. If a couple are on the loose end maybe give them a little more turn (no more than 1/8 turn!) to see if they will come up to the 65ft/lbs. But remember this is only a number I have found and used to check the bolts, it is not a ford torque value!
 
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 06:58 AM
  #42  
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From: Glenn dale md
Thanks for the info. And I agree I fell more comfortable with a torque number also. Just as a double check. I will follow procedures and for my peice of mind check with a torque wrench.
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 08:02 PM
  #43  
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From: Glenn dale md
Update.
The job is done. The truck is doing good. No coolant burps. No overheating. I dove 45 min to work on freeway. Doing 70 to 80 and no problems so far. New oil on still crystal clear. Coolant still looks new.
Headgasket healed my truck
 
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Old Apr 30, 2016 | 08:42 PM
  #44  
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Awesome! Glad it worked out for ya.
 
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Old May 1, 2016 | 09:02 AM
  #45  
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Good to hear it worked out!


Did you by chance check the head bolts with a torque wrench after installing them? Just curious if you saw the same 65ft/lbs?
 
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