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As the title suggests, the engine block is rusted through.
My brother in law up in Maine has a 2000 F-350 V-10 and the engine block on the passenger side is rusted through and spraying coolant. It's not a freeze plug issue.
The truck only has 84K miles on it and as you can imagine, spends the majority of it's life sitting.
He's had to work through plenty of issues with the manifold studs and while doing all this, he noticed that the block seemed to be thin in places. Now it's let go completely.
Is this an issue that's been addressed before on here?
Is there a fix other than replacing the engine?
I suggested an engine swap but I guess if the core can't be rebuilt then he wouldn't be able to recoup the core charge.
Any and all thoughts and suggestions on this would be helpful so i can pass along to him.
That's a new one, never heard of that happing on any motor. My guess would be a bad casting from day one. Short term fix would be JB Weld then a new or used block.
Not something that is too common. My guess is a thin spot, porosity or something along those lines coupled with rusting (made worse by lack of use) caused it to spring a leak. Though it is possible his coolant could have a charge and eating the block from the inside out.
It depends where the leak bad spot is in the block and how the thin the surrounding area is whether it is viable for repair. The best way to repair a cast iron block so it lasts is with metal stitching. It is something that is kinda a lost art these days but there are still some around that can do it, and it can be learned.
I need to see pictures of this before I can believe an engine block can be rusted through before the frame of the truck ! Are you sure it's not just a Bad freeze plug or gasket?
I need to see pictures of this before I can believe an engine block can be rusted through before the frame of the truck ! Are you sure it's not just a Bad freeze plug or gasket?
The truck is in Maine and I'm in Va. My BIL was telling me about this a couple years ago. He stated then that he felt the side of the block was weak and the rust was flaking off in thick layers. It's not a freeze plug. My BIL is as good of a non Ford tech mechanic as I've ever seen.
I told him then to do an engine swap or else he'll be in a bind and won't get any more back on the engine than what some parts are worth and scrap price for the iron block.
IMHO he's screwed but I wanted to tap into FTE's immense knowledge and hopefully get proven wrong.
But a few years back, my brother had a '98 F-250 L/D plow truck with a 5.4. It was a local truck (CT) is whole life, and very rusty. I could not believe the scale on the engine block (the exhaust manifolds had rotted right off the truck). Having seen that, I can totally believe rust through of an engine block in a similar (albeit worse) environment, similar engine, etc.
If the salt up there is bad enough to eat through the block, he better take a real close look at the frame before throwing good money after bad on a 16 year old truck. I crawled underneath my 2006 Town Car and saw the block and manifolds with chunks of rust everywhere but it had over 300,000 miles and was a mid atlantic car so who knows.
The truck is in Maine and I'm in Va. My BIL was telling me about this a couple years ago. He stated then that he felt the side of the block was weak and the rust was flaking off in thick layers. It's not a freeze plug. My BIL is as good of a non Ford tech mechanic as I've ever seen.
I told him then to do an engine swap or else he'll be in a bind and won't get any more back on the engine than what some parts are worth and scrap price for the iron block.
IMHO he's screwed but I wanted to tap into FTE's immense knowledge and hopefully get proven wrong.
I'm pretty confident you know what you're talking about but was curious as to whether he did and it appears that he does. My opinion, you nailed the answer and the real question is is the truck worth a new engine or a junkyard/used engine?
I need to see pictures of this before I can believe an engine block can be rusted through before the frame of the truck ! Are you sure it's not just a Bad freeze plug or gasket?
Me too. I don't believe this until I see it.
I grew up in Michigan where rust is a bumper crop. I've seen rusty blocks, exhaust manifolds and body/frames. Never such a thing as cast iron engine block rusting through.
And if I'm somehow wrong; there's no way the rest of the truck is worth keeping.
I'm pretty confident you know what you're talking about but was curious as to whether he did and it appears that he does. My opinion, you nailed the answer and the real question is is the truck worth a new engine or a junkyard/used engine?
Originally Posted by Im50fast
Me too. I don't believe this until I see it.
I grew up in Michigan where rust is a bumper crop. I've seen rusty blocks, exhaust manifolds and body/frames. Never such a thing as cast iron engine block rusting through.
And if I'm somehow wrong; there's no way the rest of the truck is worth keeping.
I sent him a txt yesterday asking for pics. He just did a body off frame de-rusting of the whole truck and had the body panels painted. Each year he treats the frame with used motor oil and claims that the oil is the only thing that has saved this aging beast.
He just replaced the rockers and cab corners this summer and did some work to the rear quarters. While the body was off he did the frame as well and sprayed it black. Looked like a nice thorough job.
But, he still neglected to address the engine issue. I'm thinking that he was surprised of the block rust as we all are and just didn't believe that it could be that thin.
It sounds like he has a very nice looking truck for its age but it also sounds like he is mostly knowledgeable in bodywork? There are three types of guys, truck body restores, mechanical gurus and the rare Master of both, all are great at what they know.
Years ago, I owned a 1999 Dodge with 5.9L Cummins. One of the engine casts was known to have a weak/thin spot which could lead to engine block cracks on highly mod'd engines (you can Google "Cummins Cast 53" to get a ton of reading info). Quite a few guys were able to successfully seal cracks using JB Weld on a carefully and properly prepared block (lots of cleaning, etc.). Anyway, just wanted to throw that out as a possible solution to your described problem.
To close the loop on this one, my BIL went to a salvage yard in Brewer, Maine and bought a V-10 that came from a wrecked SD and installed it in his truck. The donor had 140K miles. He pulled the valve covers and oil pan prior to the install and said it looked great. The engine cost about $1700.00 delivered to his house. It also came with a 90 day warranty.
Thank you all for your offerings. I have to agree, it was likely a casting issue. He at least has some great spare parts from his old engine and heads, maybe he can part them out.
The engine cost about $1700.00 delivered to his house.
Good he got it figured out but he could have bought a complete driveable salvage truck for half that. If time and convenience were more important then I can understand.