Need Help: Timing Cover Leak?
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Need Help: Timing Cover Leak?
Hello,
This will be the third time I've attempted this gasket. If it is indeed the true problem. Take a look at the picture.
First attempt failed with a coolant puddle on the passenger side, under the thermostat. Took apart and realized my timing cover was warped. Purchased new part and attempted again. Worked for a week, then coolant started to puddle on the driver side. Not really sure how since there's no coolant under there, just oil. Little worried for that last fact, don't want the coolant to find the oil.
Need advice, it's a pretty involved job and would like another perspective before taking it all apart again. Just in case I'm mistaken as to what the cause actually is.
1997 F250
7.5L/460
E4OD
Thanks in advance,
Van
This will be the third time I've attempted this gasket. If it is indeed the true problem. Take a look at the picture.
First attempt failed with a coolant puddle on the passenger side, under the thermostat. Took apart and realized my timing cover was warped. Purchased new part and attempted again. Worked for a week, then coolant started to puddle on the driver side. Not really sure how since there's no coolant under there, just oil. Little worried for that last fact, don't want the coolant to find the oil.
Need advice, it's a pretty involved job and would like another perspective before taking it all apart again. Just in case I'm mistaken as to what the cause actually is.
1997 F250
7.5L/460
E4OD
Thanks in advance,
Van
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Mexico, Missouri
What engine? Looks maybe 460? Definitely not 351, 302, 300.
First and easiest idea is that clamp just to the right for the bypass. I would thoroughly clean any and all antifreeze up. Then using some paper towels, sit those in the depression that it's puddling. Now, have another one under the coolant hose bypass, as it attaches just where the gasket and cover meet the block.
Start the truck and let it run. Don't drive it since forward momentum down the road will force it towards the firewall. It could be either or both hose clamps leaking on the byapss hose and as I said if you drive, it will force it backwards towards the cab and fill the depression up where its pooling now.
Hopefully that makes sense and its just a hose clamp(s) leaking.
First and easiest idea is that clamp just to the right for the bypass. I would thoroughly clean any and all antifreeze up. Then using some paper towels, sit those in the depression that it's puddling. Now, have another one under the coolant hose bypass, as it attaches just where the gasket and cover meet the block.
Start the truck and let it run. Don't drive it since forward momentum down the road will force it towards the firewall. It could be either or both hose clamps leaking on the byapss hose and as I said if you drive, it will force it backwards towards the cab and fill the depression up where its pooling now.
Hopefully that makes sense and its just a hose clamp(s) leaking.
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What type gasket did you use? Some of them look pretty flimsy.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Kind of hard to slip out with all those bolts going through it.
You need to be careful around the water passages at the back of the timing case
There is a convolute weep passage that is meant to direct coolant OUT before it can get into the block and contaminate the oil.
Don't glom RTV on there and defeat the safety that is built in.
If you're really worried about the gasket moving glue it to the case before assembly.
You need to be careful around the water passages at the back of the timing case
There is a convolute weep passage that is meant to direct coolant OUT before it can get into the block and contaminate the oil.
Don't glom RTV on there and defeat the safety that is built in.
If you're really worried about the gasket moving glue it to the case before assembly.
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Did you use sealant on all bolt threads going into the block?
I use anerobic Loctite PST but even regular pipe dope is better that nothing.
I use anerobic Loctite PST but even regular pipe dope is better that nothing.
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Kind of hard to slip out with all those bolts going through it.
You need to be careful around the water passages at the back of the timing case
There is a convolute weep passage that is meant to direct coolant OUT before it can get into the block and contaminate the oil.
Don't glom RTV on there and defeat the safety that is built in.
If you're really worried about the gasket moving glue it to the case before assembly.
You need to be careful around the water passages at the back of the timing case
There is a convolute weep passage that is meant to direct coolant OUT before it can get into the block and contaminate the oil.
Don't glom RTV on there and defeat the safety that is built in.
If you're really worried about the gasket moving glue it to the case before assembly.
Also, I did not put sealant on the bolt threads. Any chance that could be the problem?
Could I drain the coolant, then remove/seal/replace each bolt one by one?
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Two days ago, let truck idle until operating temp, then a little more for good measure. Just checked top of cover today. (first dry day since OP) No coolant.
From what I've observed, the coolant only appears if I park on a hill, nose down. (driveway has some serious grade in places) I moved it to a more level part to do the job which might be why no coolant seeped.
The simple answer is to not park on a hill, but I now live in the PNW. Flat parking areas are as rare as dry/sunny days.
From what I've observed, the coolant only appears if I park on a hill, nose down. (driveway has some serious grade in places) I moved it to a more level part to do the job which might be why no coolant seeped.
The simple answer is to not park on a hill, but I now live in the PNW. Flat parking areas are as rare as dry/sunny days.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
You definitely should seal all threads going into the block.
Only some of these threads reach water, but by using Loctite you avoid ever having a truly seized bolt.
Yes coolant can/will leak out threads and appear as a leak.
ETA: I don't see any reason you couldn't do one bolt at a time other than it would be hard to get the threads clean and dry for the Loctite to do its job.
Only some of these threads reach water, but by using Loctite you avoid ever having a truly seized bolt.
Yes coolant can/will leak out threads and appear as a leak.
ETA: I don't see any reason you couldn't do one bolt at a time other than it would be hard to get the threads clean and dry for the Loctite to do its job.
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You definitely should seal all threads going into the block.
Only some of these threads reach water, but by using Loctite you avoid ever having a truly seized bolt.
Yes coolant can/will leak out threads and appear as a leak.
ETA: I don't see any reason you couldn't do one bolt at a time other than it would be hard to get the threads clean and dry for the Loctite to do its job.
Only some of these threads reach water, but by using Loctite you avoid ever having a truly seized bolt.
Yes coolant can/will leak out threads and appear as a leak.
ETA: I don't see any reason you couldn't do one bolt at a time other than it would be hard to get the threads clean and dry for the Loctite to do its job.
Now what type locktite should I use again?
Learned long ago, short-cuts on cars/trucks usually take twice as long and rarely end in success. (Not to mention earning twice as many bloody knuckles)
Thanks for all the help ArdWrknTrk!
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