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"The Donk" build thread

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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 08:57 AM
  #76  
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so after some front end BS, the truck is driving great again. but i have the chance to buy a 2001 7.3 for the same price as an axle swap. i wanna either put everything from the superduty on my obs or get the superduty running good and make it my dd and sell my truck... thoughts??
 
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 12:18 PM
  #77  
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First thought: it's your truck, so do what you want.

That said, personally I can't see ever owning a Ford truck newer than '97. I had a brand new 2008 F-250 that I hated, then I bought a 2002 F-350 diesel that wasn't much better. But that's me. A lot of people still like newer Ford trucks, but I ain't one of them.

As for putting axles from a SuperDuty onto your F-150, I'm not sure I'd do that either. For what I would use an F-150 for I'd stay with the Dana 44 TTB. If I was going to do a solid axle swap I'd either go with a Dana 44, or Dana 60 from an older truck. The 44 would be lighter and would match the lug pattern on the rear axle (and still probably strong enough for anything I would do with it). And the 60 would be stronger without getting into the newer metric lug pattern and the unit bearings the newer Dana 50s and 60s had.

But again, it's your truck, so I'm not saying either are a bad choice, just that with the baggage I come with I'd make different ones!
 
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Old Apr 11, 2016 | 05:01 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Nothing Special
First thought: it's your truck, so do what you want.

That said, personally I can't see ever owning a Ford truck newer than '97. I had a brand new 2008 F-250 that I hated, then I bought a 2002 F-350 diesel that wasn't much better. But that's me. A lot of people still like newer Ford trucks, but I ain't one of them.

As for putting axles from a SuperDuty onto your F-150, I'm not sure I'd do that either. For what I would use an F-150 for I'd stay with the Dana 44 TTB. If I was going to do a solid axle swap I'd either go with a Dana 44, or Dana 60 from an older truck. The 44 would be lighter and would match the lug pattern on the rear axle (and still probably strong enough for anything I would do with it). And the 60 would be stronger without getting into the newer metric lug pattern and the unit bearings the newer Dana 50s and 60s had.

But again, it's your truck, so I'm not saying either are a bad choice, just that with the baggage I come with I'd make different ones!
thanks for the reply, and yeah i understand what you mean. but the thing is that i could buy this truck for roughly the same price as a SAS ($2,000). so idk me and my friend might get it going and sell it to make some money.if i were to keep my TTB i would have to rebuild it and weld the lift kit drop brackets to the frame...
 
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Old Apr 13, 2016 | 09:00 AM
  #79  
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Truck Plan for Summer 2k16

TTB rebuild ( ~$400)
front shocks ($100)
steering stabilizer ($55)
fix misfire ~($100 max)
led lights ($200)
body mounts ($73.00)
3 inch body lift ($110.00)

(~$1060)
 
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Old May 5, 2016 | 09:17 AM
  #80  
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just focusing on the TTB rebuild right now... does anyone have a good way to remove the pivot bushings without a torch?
 
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Old May 5, 2016 | 09:26 AM
  #81  
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I rented a ball joint press from the parts store. With the whole beam removed it was easy. First time I replaced them I left the beam in the truck, made a puller out of threaded rod, it sucked. Id pull the beams and use the press.
 
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Old May 5, 2016 | 01:31 PM
  #82  
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I removed the lift bracket and used a large framing Hamer to take the bushing out. And used a balljoint press to press it back in. Then bolted everything back in. Took maybe an hour
 
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Old May 5, 2016 | 05:34 PM
  #83  
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Having a lift should make this easier to do with the beams in. xrsfsho, that's a good idea to remove the drop bracket for more room.
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 08:38 AM
  #84  
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the drop brackets are welded :/ prolly just take the beams out and use the ball joint press... so i have a bad outer wheel bearing on the passenger side. would that cause a "death wobble" kind of effect? cuz it has been kind of bad lately and finding that out i was wondering if that would cause it. other than that... its just the pivot bushing, and front shocks, which i don't think would cause the death wobble.
 
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Old May 6, 2016 | 09:18 AM
  #85  
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The wheel bearing can cause death wobble. But the pivot bushing would also do that since it would be a loose front end part
 
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Old May 7, 2016 | 04:50 PM
  #86  
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haha thats good to hear i guess
 
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