Brake problem
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Brake problem
I have replaced all the drum brakes on a 1967 F100 I bought about a year ago. It had been sitting 5-7 years since it last ran. I now have it running. I can't get the brake fluid to come through the wheel seals. Help please
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
What all did you replace and do you have manual brakes or, do you have a power brake booster?
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
From: Fremont
I have never replaced a M/C, however, everything I read about changing a m/c is that bench bleeding is the easiest way to get all the air out and prepped for installation.
The m/c can be bled while installed, but the vehicle will need to be level to bleed thoroughly.
The m/c can be bled while installed, but the vehicle will need to be level to bleed thoroughly.
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Do you mean you rebuilt the wheel CYLINDERS or, you replaced the entire wheel cylinders at all four wheels?
Did you replace the left front, right front and the rear flexible brake hoses?
Did you replace the left front, right front and the rear flexible brake hoses?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
In any case prior to bleeding, wheel drums installed, turn the adjusters all the way out so the shoes are tight against the drum. The cylinder cups may cover up the bleed ports otherwise. Worth eliminating as the cause of trouble anyway.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Not taken that way what so ever. But yes. I have even tried to push air threw the line with no success. I guess I'm just trying to avoid replacing the proportionate valves. That's the only thing left to replace.
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,592
Likes: 10
From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Have you tried opening the front bleeders and blow air by mouth or compressor to make sure the theirs no blockage ? I'd open the tube nut at the M/C and see if any fluid is being pushed out when you pump a little on the pedal.
I believe you still have air in the M/Cyl. By slowing pumping the pedal a little at a time while watching for no more bubbles but a steady flow of fluid coming out every little push of the pedal. Then reconnect the nut tube line. And do you have the correct line hooked into the right M/C orifice as some M/C have the same size orifices on the M/C that come with a couple brass adapters. The M/C with the well closes to the firewall should go to the fronts if you were not sure.
Once, I get good fluid flow. I open the bleeder a number of turns and let it self bleed if no helpers around. Place a rag just under the bleeder to catch the dripping as not to make a mess. Always bleed the w/c farthest away first and open only one at a time.
Some people don't know much of this not saying you don't.
Orich
I believe you still have air in the M/Cyl. By slowing pumping the pedal a little at a time while watching for no more bubbles but a steady flow of fluid coming out every little push of the pedal. Then reconnect the nut tube line. And do you have the correct line hooked into the right M/C orifice as some M/C have the same size orifices on the M/C that come with a couple brass adapters. The M/C with the well closes to the firewall should go to the fronts if you were not sure.
Once, I get good fluid flow. I open the bleeder a number of turns and let it self bleed if no helpers around. Place a rag just under the bleeder to catch the dripping as not to make a mess. Always bleed the w/c farthest away first and open only one at a time.
Some people don't know much of this not saying you don't.
Orich
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 6,399
Likes: 40
From: El Dorado, Arkansas
Diagram of the internal workings of the pressure differential valve. --The Metering Valve shown in the diagram only applies to '68-'72 F250/F350 trucks with optional factory front discs. '67-'72 F100s weren't available with factory front disc brakes. The metering valve would be omitted from the system with all-wheel drums.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 406
Likes: 2
From: Tucson Arizona
Yeah. What Orich said...
Take note of the "Slowly pumping" bit. Pushing too quickly or letting off too quickly is going to splatter brake fluid around.
What I did years ago was to take a M/C cover and braze in two wheel air valves. One for each reservoir.
Use this on your M/C and pressurize the MC to 5-10 psi. Open the farthest S/C and wait a second for the fluid to flow. Close the valve and check the M/C fluid. Re-pressurize and go to the next farthest. So on and so forth.
As Orich says the system will self-bleed so you don't need to make the pressurizing cover.
But when the lines are all empty it takes more time, patience, and fluid to get the job done.
Take note of the "Slowly pumping" bit. Pushing too quickly or letting off too quickly is going to splatter brake fluid around.
What I did years ago was to take a M/C cover and braze in two wheel air valves. One for each reservoir.
Use this on your M/C and pressurize the MC to 5-10 psi. Open the farthest S/C and wait a second for the fluid to flow. Close the valve and check the M/C fluid. Re-pressurize and go to the next farthest. So on and so forth.
As Orich says the system will self-bleed so you don't need to make the pressurizing cover.
But when the lines are all empty it takes more time, patience, and fluid to get the job done.
Have you tried opening the front bleeders and blow air by mouth or compressor to make sure the theirs no blockage ? I'd open the tube nut at the M/C and see if any fluid is being pushed out when you pump a little on the pedal.
I believe you still have air in the M/Cyl. By slowing pumping the pedal a little at a time while watching for no more bubbles but a steady flow of fluid coming out every little push of the pedal. Then reconnect the nut tube line. And do you have the correct line hooked into the right M/C orifice as some M/C have the same size orifices on the M/C that come with a couple brass adapters. The M/C with the well closes to the firewall should go to the fronts if you were not sure.
Once, I get good fluid flow. I open the bleeder a number of turns and let it self bleed if no helpers around. Place a rag just under the bleeder to catch the dripping as not to make a mess. Always bleed the w/c farthest away first and open only one at a time.
Some people don't know much of this not saying you don't.
Orich
I believe you still have air in the M/Cyl. By slowing pumping the pedal a little at a time while watching for no more bubbles but a steady flow of fluid coming out every little push of the pedal. Then reconnect the nut tube line. And do you have the correct line hooked into the right M/C orifice as some M/C have the same size orifices on the M/C that come with a couple brass adapters. The M/C with the well closes to the firewall should go to the fronts if you were not sure.
Once, I get good fluid flow. I open the bleeder a number of turns and let it self bleed if no helpers around. Place a rag just under the bleeder to catch the dripping as not to make a mess. Always bleed the w/c farthest away first and open only one at a time.
Some people don't know much of this not saying you don't.
Orich