Electrical Inicator Problem

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Dec 12, 2015 | 03:46 AM

#16

BGF100

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 182

Likes: 0

From: Queensland, Australia

Lndicator fault

Hi,
the indicator fault keeps going away and coming back.

I checked the voltage across the battery.

Engine off - 12.65

Engine running - 13.15 (seems low? with nothing else on)

Noticed when the indicators aren't working a red light comes on in instrument cluster. I am guessing it is the ignition light.
Bottom right corner. (Australian truck).

Thanks,

Dec 16, 2015 | 03:26 AM

#17

BGF100

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 182

Likes: 0

From: Queensland, Australia

Instrument Cluster

Hi Guys,
I still cant find the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator.
I thought I had, but when I opened it up, it was a (bimetallic) self / auto resetting circuit breaker.

I am wondering if the gauges are 0-5V or 0-12V.

Will take into work tomorrow and see how the fuel gauge reacts to 2.5Vdc.

Attached two photos hope you cane make out that there is no IVR on the printed ribbon.
If you can please tell me how close / dissimilar it is to the US.

Also I have attached a photo of the front of the cluster.
If the indicators line up with the US. What are they. (I may have mixed up the colours by the way). Not sure what I should use to stick them back on, superglue can melt some plastics.

Thanks,

Attached Images

Dec 16, 2015 | 10:45 AM

#18

Filthy Beast

Postmaster

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 2,698

Likes: 7

From: Taxachusetts

First, 12.65 VDC isn't bad for no run/no load. 13.15 VDC is low for run/no load - should be ~14.50VDC, but it's better than 12.0 VDC. That's yer alternator out put. Since you have idiot lights, I think the red light -bottom right corner could be a weak charging indicator. Don't know.

What I would do : take the bulbs out (if you can) and clean the copper ribbon(s) with alcomehol and some cotton swabs. Put the missing light bulb back - your ????? on the cluster face, bottom left, empty hole on right side, cluster back. You're right about not having an ICVR hooked to the cluster...maybe it's integral in the wiring or not there at all??

The I would go around yer vehicle , ******** in hand , and check yer tailights/turn signals. The pigtails, I mean. Look for any type of corrosion or wear. Visually inspect/wiggle the grounds on each one, inspect/pull the bulbs, check for good contact and seating......#1157 I believe? Did I say check for good grounds/connections? HAhaha...You can shoot me if/when you get to the East Coast....or West Coast, depending......

Top picture 1975,
bottom 1978

Dec 17, 2015 | 02:14 AM

#19

BGF100

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 182

Likes: 0

From: Queensland, Australia

Hi,
thanks for the reply.

I tested my fuel gage today at work and it worked with a 0 to 5V signal.
(Actually only needed 3.6V for full scale).

I tried it at home on the truck and no go.
I will chase through the ribbon and onto the plug to find the wire colours.
This is turning into a full time job.

Damn Australian ford. Only joking.

Thanks,

Dec 18, 2015 | 01:49 AM

#20

BGF100

Thread Starter

Mountain Pass

Joined: Jul 2015

Posts: 182

Likes: 0

From: Queensland, Australia

ICVR

I've had the dash apart looking, but cannot find it.
The voltage across the terminals of the fuel gauge pulses 0 - approx. 2.54V.
So something is there, surely.
At this stage I am pulling my hair out.

Thanks,

Dec 18, 2015 | 01:25 PM

#21

Filthy Beast

Postmaster

Joined: Mar 2011

Posts: 2,698

Likes: 7

From: Taxachusetts

Quote:

Originally Posted by BGF100

I tested my fuel gage today at work and it worked with a 0 to 5V signal.
(Actually only needed 3.6V for full scale).

I tried it at home on the truck and no go.

OooKay, then.... what was the difference..(or, what changed) from when it worked at your place of employ, and when you tried it at home in real life? What did you do differently in the test?