I Can't Win! IDI Throttle Cable
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 515
Likes: 8
I'll add that a lot of the throttle cables on V8 gas Fords (including Broncos) of the 80s-90s are the same style and should work if you can find one that is the right length. May be worth a look, if you have a decent junk yard around. I think the one I ended up using was off a truck with an EFI 351, can't remember for sure though.
Once you have one that you want to use, you may want to do is carefully put some oil (used engine oil, or whatever is around) in the throttle pedal attachment end of the cable. Work the cable back and forth for awhile, continuing to add drops of oil to the one end. It'll help prevent it from binding up.
Once you have one that you want to use, you may want to do is carefully put some oil (used engine oil, or whatever is around) in the throttle pedal attachment end of the cable. Work the cable back and forth for awhile, continuing to add drops of oil to the one end. It'll help prevent it from binding up.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 785
Likes: 2
Well, I think I did it. I think I won against the throttle cable.
I bought a spring at the local hardware store that was heavier than the factory spring, but lighter than the one I installed previously.
I removed the spring from the IP, and then was able to pull all the slack out of the cable from the pedal side. I crimped two pieces of No. 2 split shot around the end of the cable, and that took ALL the slack out of the cable. Then replaced the spring with the new one.
Oh boy, how she drives. Just breathe on the pedal and she surges forward.
Only thing is now, the IP doesn't return fully to the "idle" position as it were, so it sounds like it's in high idle mode all the time. I can't foresee that posing any problems, but we'll see.
With the lighter spring on the IP, it's no longer a leg day exercise to work the pedal, and as such it shouldn't deform the split shot, so I'm praying this will work as a long term repair. We will see...
I bought a spring at the local hardware store that was heavier than the factory spring, but lighter than the one I installed previously.
I removed the spring from the IP, and then was able to pull all the slack out of the cable from the pedal side. I crimped two pieces of No. 2 split shot around the end of the cable, and that took ALL the slack out of the cable. Then replaced the spring with the new one.
Oh boy, how she drives. Just breathe on the pedal and she surges forward.
Only thing is now, the IP doesn't return fully to the "idle" position as it were, so it sounds like it's in high idle mode all the time. I can't foresee that posing any problems, but we'll see.
With the lighter spring on the IP, it's no longer a leg day exercise to work the pedal, and as such it shouldn't deform the split shot, so I'm praying this will work as a long term repair. We will see...
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
Likes: 3
From: North Bend
I Can't Win! IDI Throttle Cable
Split shot like the lead crimp weights for fishing? If so it will not hold long-term.
However there are items (I think called cable stops) at any hardware store that are somewhat similar but designed for steel cable. Also a simple crimp.
Glad to hear you figured out a fix though!
However there are items (I think called cable stops) at any hardware store that are somewhat similar but designed for steel cable. Also a simple crimp.
Glad to hear you figured out a fix though!
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Elder User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 785
Likes: 2
Yes, that's the split shot to which I'm referring.
Not that I disagree, but what makes you say that it won't hold long term? Being that there's very little force actually being exerted on the lead, I see no reason that it wouldn't hold up for quite some time.
I intend to find some purpose-designed cable crimps to replace them, but until I can get into town to a bigger hardware store, my options are limited. Also, in my online searches I haven't yet found something that will work the way I want. Perhaps you can point me in the right direction?
Not that I disagree, but what makes you say that it won't hold long term? Being that there's very little force actually being exerted on the lead, I see no reason that it wouldn't hold up for quite some time.
I intend to find some purpose-designed cable crimps to replace them, but until I can get into town to a bigger hardware store, my options are limited. Also, in my online searches I haven't yet found something that will work the way I want. Perhaps you can point me in the right direction?
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Elder User
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 785
Likes: 2
If you look at the end of the cable at the pedal, there's a small metal ****. That **** is supposed to be caught by a bushing of sorts that clips in to the top of the pedal arm. Somehow, that bushing more or less disintegrated on me, so the pedal arm had nothing to grab on to, so I couldn't actuate the throttle.
The purpose of the split shot is twofold: Firstly, it provides something large enough for the pedal arm to push against, because it won't fit through the hole where the aforementioned bushing was previously. And second, it takes up the slack in the cable, so that there is no "free travel" in the pedal before it starts to grab.
The purpose of the split shot is twofold: Firstly, it provides something large enough for the pedal arm to push against, because it won't fit through the hole where the aforementioned bushing was previously. And second, it takes up the slack in the cable, so that there is no "free travel" in the pedal before it starts to grab.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 13
People have been using zip ties for that since throttle cables were invented, so aptly named "the zip tie mod".
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Elder User
Joined: May 2015
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Zip ties. Interesting. I'll admit, I hadn't thought of that. Though I can foresee a potential issue in that using a zip tie small enough to secure itself around that thin cable might be too small to prevent slipping through the hole at the top of the pedal arm.
Unless I'm misunderstanding the application of the zip ties?
Unless I'm misunderstanding the application of the zip ties?
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 188
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Zip ties. Interesting. I'll admit, I hadn't thought of that. Though I can foresee a potential issue in that using a zip tie small enough to secure itself around that thin cable might be too small to prevent slipping through the hole at the top of the pedal arm.
Unless I'm misunderstanding the application of the zip ties?
Unless I'm misunderstanding the application of the zip ties?
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 867
Likes: 3
From: North Bend
Yes, that's the split shot to which I'm referring.
Not that I disagree, but what makes you say that it won't hold long term? Being that there's very little force actually being exerted on the lead, I see no reason that it wouldn't hold up for quite some time.
I intend to find some purpose-designed cable crimps to replace them, but until I can get into town to a bigger hardware store, my options are limited. Also, in my online searches I haven't yet found something that will work the way I want. Perhaps you can point me in the right direction?
Not that I disagree, but what makes you say that it won't hold long term? Being that there's very little force actually being exerted on the lead, I see no reason that it wouldn't hold up for quite some time.
I intend to find some purpose-designed cable crimps to replace them, but until I can get into town to a bigger hardware store, my options are limited. Also, in my online searches I haven't yet found something that will work the way I want. Perhaps you can point me in the right direction?
If the split shot is separated from the cable stop then at some point it'll give because lead is so pathetically soft. The steel cable will eventually eat away at it like a file.
Unless the lead is butted up against the cable stop.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2015
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Correct. The lead shot is strictly a spacer. It's squeezed tight between the **** at the end of the cable, and the top of the pedal arm. There is no way for the cable to exert an abrasive force on the lead.
I do like that fuel line and hose clamp idea too. It would have to be a small ID fuel line (~1/8") and a small hose clamp; There's only about 1/2-5/8" gap that needs to be filled.
Truth be told, whatever fix is ultimately used only needs to last a matter of months. I intend to purchase another truck (mid 90's F-150) this summer to ultimately swap a built 460 into, and then use it as a DD while my '88 goes under the knife for a Cummins/SAS, and probably a dually conversion while I'm at it.
I do like that fuel line and hose clamp idea too. It would have to be a small ID fuel line (~1/8") and a small hose clamp; There's only about 1/2-5/8" gap that needs to be filled.
Truth be told, whatever fix is ultimately used only needs to last a matter of months. I intend to purchase another truck (mid 90's F-150) this summer to ultimately swap a built 460 into, and then use it as a DD while my '88 goes under the knife for a Cummins/SAS, and probably a dually conversion while I'm at it.