OBD II CODE P1450: How to fix
My question is which is correct and how to repair?
Thanks, kjnoldy
1984 F250
1996 Lincoln
2000 Stang

Here is what the Ford manual says about a P1450.....
Continuous Memory Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0446 or P1450 indicates that Self-Test has detected the Evaporative Emission Control System has excessive fuel tank vacuum. Also, a DTC P0446 indicates a vent control malfunction.
Possible causes:
EVAP canister purge outlet tube (EVAP canister purge valve to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.
EVAP canister tube (fuel tank to EVAP canister) blockages or kinks.
Fuel vapor elbow on EVAP canister contaminated.
Restricted EVAP canister.
Canister vent (CV) solenoid stuck closed (partially or fully).
Plugged or contaminated CV solenoid filter.
EVAP canister purge valve stuck open.
Fuel filler cap stuck closed (no vacuum relief).
VREF circuit open in fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor.
Damaged FTP sensor.
The common problems I've seen that cause this code are mud in the CV solenoid and related parts, and wiring to the CV ripped apart. The parts I am talking about are in front of the spare tire, above and behind the rear diff.
I took removed the cannister rack and reseated cv vent solenoid connection. There was some dirt up there. Blew air through cv vent solenoid, no restrictions. Blew air through cannisters, no restrictions. Blew air through gas tank vent tube, no restrictions.
When I went to blow air through line that "Y"s off into two lines there seems to be some restriction, it seemed to take a little more
force. My gas tank is full so I'm wondering if that had anything to do with it.
When I was reassembling tubing I am not sure if I connected the tubing to the cannister correctly. Does the line that "Y"s off into two lines connect to the CV vent solenoid or the plain elbow?
I erased the code by disconnecting the battery. I then followed the restart procedure. I hope the code does not reoccur.
kjnoldy
This is the best picture I have. Maybe it will help......
Last edited by Racerguy; Aug 17, 2003 at 12:21 AM.
Last edited by Racerguy; Aug 17, 2003 at 12:22 AM.
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I hope the light stays out for you.
In case you're wondering, I edited your email address out of your posts. Apparently in the past spammers have got addresses from posts.
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I would be thankful for any help since the dealership has changed and fixed it 5
not fixed after $700 and multiple sensor changes).
In the first case I discovered that an air intake check valve lived high in the vapor handling hoses. It was directly behind the fuel filler door and had a downward pointing barb fitting. I blew hard into the intake using a 2 foot piece of garden hose and was able to locate a hiss. The source of the code was a leak. I had to remove a fender liner to get to it. GOT POP RIVETS?
In the second case my tank was overfilled and wouldn't clear. I kept getting codes. Fierce pressure exited my fuel tank so I got the idea to replace the gas cap. I read somewhere that fuel caps are a maintenance replacement item @ 100,000 miles. My cap had 162,000. The lights cleared. As yours did.
Has your code returned?
After all this happened I worked a bit on 4 different pick-up trucks. I gave all the EVAP hoses and electronics an inspection. The hoses and canisters are accessible.
MORAL of the STORY: Take the drawings and familiarize yourself with the hardware under your vehicle. It's easy compared to my cramped car.
Your code might not come back if you've overfilled or if your cap is faulty.
Remember: Bubbling fuel from the fuel delivery nozzle can create back-flow, fill a vent pipe and trigger codes.
If you want to be hep; give it a thoughtful eyeball and learn where things are. It's good to know where vent and purge valves are and where the thermally activated switch is (coolant temperature sensor or fan mounted sensor). Kira
In the first case I discovered that an air intake check valve lived high in the vapor handling hoses. It was directly behind the fuel filler door and had a downward pointing barb fitting. I blew hard into the intake using a 2 foot piece of garden hose and was able to locate a hiss. The source of the code was a leak. I had to remove a fender liner to get to it. GOT POP RIVETS?
In the second case my tank was overfilled and wouldn't clear. I kept getting codes. Fierce pressure exited my fuel tank so I got the idea to replace the gas cap. I read somewhere that fuel caps are a maintenance replacement item @ 100,000 miles. My cap had 162,000. The lights cleared. As yours did.
Has your code returned?
After all this happened I worked a bit on 4 different pick-up trucks. I gave all the EVAP hoses and electronics an inspection. The hoses and canisters are accessible.
MORAL of the STORY: Take the drawings and familiarize yourself with the hardware under your vehicle. It's easy compared to my cramped car.
Your code might not come back if you've overfilled or if your cap is faulty.
Remember: Bubbling fuel from the fuel delivery nozzle can create back-flow, fill a vent pipe and trigger codes.
If you want to be hep; give it a thoughtful eyeball and learn where things are. It's good to know where vent and purge valves are and where the thermally activated switch is (coolant temperature sensor or fan mounted sensor). Kira




