My weekend project: engine install

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Nov 30, 2015 | 09:14 AM

#16

SRBF150

Laughing Gas

Joined: Nov 2010

Posts: 1,159

Likes: 33

From: Utah

Sounds like the lesson there is to leave the 38R compressor wheel it was born with alone. Or, are you saying that is the stock wheel?

That's an expensive story, holy mackerel.

Nov 30, 2015 | 12:30 PM

#17

Stewart_H

Super Moderator

Joined: May 2004

Posts: 29,380

Likes: 118

From: Central Coast of CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by bfife

...they are seeing the same thing. If you actually use your truck, the 38r/2nd gen wheel are not working. The manufacturer is denying it but I wouldn't recommend one to any one.

Someone made a comment about the aftermarket wheels for the 38R possibly causing 38R's to fail awhile back and I took note of his observation, that's why I asked.

Thanks, Barney.

Stewart

Nov 30, 2015 | 01:41 PM

#18

scotttahoe

Posting Guru

Joined: Jan 2013

Posts: 2,215

Likes: 2

From: North Lake Tahoe

Looking nice there!

I am curious to see what kind of voltage (not from the gauge cluster) you are getting from the alternator.

Along with my rebuild I added a brand new alternator and was only reading 11.9 to 12.7. Not enough to give the batteries a good charge and will be dead the next morning. Bought 2 new batteries and had the alternator tested. The alternator was pushing 14.6 volts but my truck was not getting it. Found out the alternator was not getting ground through the powder coating. Once grinder down I'm now seeing 13.9 to 14.1 volts. Still need to clean off some more of the powder coating.

Nov 30, 2015 | 06:59 PM

#19

bfife

Thread Starter

still plays with trucks

Joined: Mar 2004

Posts: 1,743

Likes: 3

From: Twin Falls Idaho

I get 13.9-14.3 at the battery. I learned this lesson a long time ago. i always run an 8 gauge wire from a negative post on the battery to the alternator case or a mounting bolt. that way you have a nice clean ground and your alt will last twice as long.