Have you checked your GEM/VSM Module. It should be located right on the back of the fuse box on 01 models and is a common problem on 7.3's due to small water leaks from old weatherstripping.

 

If I was in your shoes , no year specific wire diagram on hand and having made some mods I would try to get back to stock for a baseline.

Remove the shrink wrap and inspect the tab and wires hooked to it,

Reinstall and check function

Reconnct up the cut wire and check function

Recheck or undo your secondary fuse block and relay

My instinct tells me it is related to either the tape job or your additional wiring.

Hope that helps

 

I was thinking the same thing. i already disconnected the fuse box and such. i just wish i had some idea where that black and pink wire is supposed to go.

I think i may try disconnecting the gauge cluster tomorrow and see if that makes a difference.

 

I was able to find this starting system wiring diagram for the 99-01 F-250 and F-350. It may be the same for the excursion but I am not sure. I do not see a BLK/PNK wire only a WHT/PNK one. Have you checked your batteries? If either one is below 12.6 that could be your problem as well. If it was working fine before with the wire disconnected, then what makes you think that wire is the culprit now?

 

2 questions

1. Did you cut the black / pink wire or was it already cut ?
2. Did you put the black tape or over the lock cylinder and tab ?

 

Here is what I found but keep in mind it is for a 2002 gas model. Things were changed in 2002, including the VSM and instrument cluster.fm02ev327r_150-028b.pdf

Diagram 66-2.pdf

When the key is inserted it pushes the tab to ground the black/pink wire which causes the chime. So you either have a short to ground on that wire, or whatever makes the chime (instrument cluster, VSM) is faulty. The best thing to do is to physically trace the wire back to where it goes into the instrument cluster or VSM. (2002 model in the attached diagram has it going to the instrument cluster) When you find where it connects, disconnect it and do a continuity test to ground. If it tests good and you still have the chime then you likely have a faulty instrument cluster or VSM or whatever that wire was connected to on the 2001 models.

Good luck! And don't forget to keep us posted!

 

1. When i opened the column the black/pink wire was heat shrinked over. i removed the heat shrink to test it for power. it has batt voltage with the key on.

2. I taped the cylinder. Reference the pic i posted earlier.

 

Thanks didiex, that was my next course of action. since pulling the fuse fixes it i was relegated to the honey-do-list. i am hoping to get back after it tomorrow.

Does anyone have a pic of where the wire normally connects to the cylinder in order for that pastic do-hickey to ground it? i dont see an empty connector anywhere.

 

The black/pink wire goes to a plastic insert that was located on the perimeter of the bore that the lock goes into.

 

Pics were taken off the net so might not be exactly like your excursion but they are the basic ford method of doing it.

 

I dont have that connector at all......... maybe mine is part of the pats piece that fits betweenbthe cylinder housing and the column cover. i did discover the key fob wont lock the doors with the fuse in, so it deff thinks the key is in the ignition. Maybe the pats module is bad?

 

If your getting voltage on it then I doubt there is a short on the wire. More likely that something is defective, whatever module creates the chime. Possibly from corrosion as previously mentioned by someone else.

 

You cannstill have voltage after a ground. if not many lights would not work because many of them are in series. But yes maybe the pats or the gem/vsm has some corosion.

 

When the key is in it shorts the wire to ground thus completing the ciruit to make the chime ring. this could work 2 ways. it could be a monitored circuit based off resistance or it could be a simple switch closing to complete a circuit. I believe it works in the latter way, it's either open or closed. When the computer sees that circuit close (possibly through a relay, probably solid state) it rings the chime. If your getting 12v between that wire and ground then the circuit is open, or else you wouldn't get 12v. If the circuit is open the chime shouldn't be ringing unless it's closed somewhere else or the module that makes it ring "thinks" its closed. The diagram shows it as a normally open circuit to ground, meaning when the key is in the circuit is grounded. I'm not sure what you mean about the lights being in series. If that were the case then when one bulb goes out all the others on the same circuit would stop working.

 

Symptom Chart — Super Duty Series F-250, F-350, F-450, F-550

The Key-In-Ignition Chime Does Not Operate Properly
Circuit(s).
Key-in-ignition switch.
Clock spring.
GEM.
GO to Pinpoint Test D .

PINPOINT TEST D: THE KEY-IN-IGNITION CHIME DOES NOT OPERATE PROPERLY
CONDITIONS DETAILS/RESULTS/ACTIONS
D1 RETRIEVE RECORDED GEM DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES (DTCS)

Use the recorded results from the GEM self-test.

Are any DTCs recorded?
Yes
If DTC B1352, GO to D4 .

If DTC B1342, REPLACE the GEM; REFER to Section 419-10 . CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to D2 .
D2 CHECK THE IGNITION KEY IN/OUT STATUS — MONITOR THE GEM PID IGN_KEY

Monitor the GEM PID IGN_KEY while inserting and removing the key from the ignition switch.

Does the GEM PID IGN_KEY indicate IN with the ignition key inserted and OUT when the ignition key is removed?
Yes
GO to D3 .

No
If the GEM PID IGN_KEY reads OUT, GO to D4 .

If the GEM PID IGN_KEY reads IN, GO to D6 .
D3 CHECK THE DOOR AJAR INPUT — MONITOR THE GEM PID D_DR_SW

Monitor the GEM PID D_DR_SW while opening and closing the driver front door.

Do the GEM PID D_DR_SW values agree with the door positions?
Yes
REPLACE the GEM. REFER to Section 419-10 . CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REFER to Section 417-02 .
D4 CHECK THE KEY-IN-IGNITION WARNING SWITCH — MONITOR THE GEM PID IGN_KEY

Key-In-Ignition Warning Switch

Monitor the GEM PID IGN_KEY while connecting a jumper wire between key-in-ignition warning switch connector pin, circuit 158 (BK/PK), and ground.

Does the GEM PID IGN_KEY indicate IN with the jumper wire connected?
Yes
REPLACE the key-in-ignition warning switch; REFER to Switch—Key-In-Ignition Warning . CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to D5 .
D5 CHECK CIRCUIT 158 (BK/PK) FOR OPEN

GEM C239

Measure the resistance between key-in-ignition warning switch connector pin, circuit 158 (BK/PK), and GEM C239-15 circuit 158 (BK/PK).

Is the resistance less than 5 ohms?
Yes
REPLACE the GEM; REFER to Section 419-10 . CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit 158 (BK/K). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.
D6 CHECK THE KEY-IN-IGNITION WARNING SWITCH — MONITOR THE GEM PID IGN_KEY

Monitor the GEM PID IGN_KEY while disconnecting the key-in-ignition warning switch.

Does the GEM PID IGN_KEY indicate OUT when disconnected?
Yes
REPLACE the key-in-ignition warning switch; REFER to Switch—Key-In-Ignition Warning . CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
GO to D7 .
D7 CHECK CIRCUIT 158 (BK/PK) FOR A SHORT TO GROUND
Remove the key from the ignition switch.

Measure the resistance between GEM C239-15, circuit 158 (BK/PK), and ground.

Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes
REPLACE the GEM. REFER to Section 419-10 . CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.

No
REPAIR circuit 158 (BK/PK). CLEAR the DTCs. TEST the system for normal operation.