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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 06:17 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Wow, 100,001 times to be exact.

cracks

...rectified!

Stewart
.








...etc up to 100,001 .
 
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 06:21 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by IMASAP
Didn't you put a Redhead in your Ex ? Or no ?
Don't get me going

It was a piece of chit from the start and total fail within weeks!

Purchased an OEM great from the start, no more drama.

Previous Ex, did the adjustment and that worked out fine.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 06:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Wow, I saw your post Sean and wondered why you were linking to another site for steering box adjustment when I've posted it over a hundred thousand times here on the forum (I just counted each post and it was actually 100,001 times to be exact... ) and have also posted a link to the instructions in the tech folder, when upon further investigation I realized there isn't a link in the tech folder!

What the heck...how could THAT have fallen in the cracks?

Oh well....rectified!

Stewart
Originally Posted by wpnaes
.








...etc up to 100,001 .
Turkey put him to sleep
 
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 06:30 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by IMASAP
Didn't you put a Redhead in your Ex ? Or no ?
Yup, for all of 5 minutes, hence his post you quoted.

Stewart
 
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 06:35 PM
  #20  
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15828359

Thx Stewart.
 
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Old Nov 29, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
What else should you replace while you are at it ?

What ever is worn out ?

Steering shaft
Ball joints
Tie rod
Drag link
Radius arm bushings
Leaf spring bushings
Shackle bushings
Unit bearings

If it moves, it wears out. If it's worn out, replace it.
I bought most of this here when replacing my steering gear box with oem https://www.rockauto.com/
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 05:19 PM
  #22  
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I went RedHead during the group buy and have been happy. I did try adjusting the original one and screwed it up so if you try that listen to LivingLarge and go 1/4 turn and drive it a bit. I think if I would have gone that route I wouldn't have messed up my original.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 10:45 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
Give me a minute, Looking for that link...(or set of threads covering the topic).

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...les/042601.pdf See section on Steering gear mesh load adjustment. 1/4 turn, then tighten and drive re-test as Michael recommends. Not implying you have oscillations, but the step by step instruction is described there.




That's a great observation Stewart.
Thanks for the info
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 10:49 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by LivingLarge
OEM is now 2 year warranty......


You couldn't pay me enough to run a redhead box period
Did you get yours from a dealership or a website?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2015 | 10:50 PM
  #25  
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Dealership..... Had them install it 2 hrs labor
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 06:23 PM
  #26  
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Went OEM w new sway bar bushing, hubs, track bar bushings, brakes/lines. The box alone wouldn't have fixed the issues I had but with it all together it drives so much nicer. I don't have the veins popping out of my forearms anymore trying to steady it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 09:53 PM
  #27  
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I went OEM because it was covered under an extended warranty. I have no complaints. If steering performance is what you seek to improve, beyond the obvious parts already suggested, deal with the rear. The rear steer on the bugger was my biggest issue. When you put on a new steering gear, it will still wander. The steering will be more sensitive which can be even more frustrating trying to delicately correct for the wander...at least that was my experience. Hellwig Anti-sway bar, radius rods and roadmaster active suspension fixed me. Some change to different code swings..point is, if it wandered before, the new steering gear won't make it a lot better.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 05:25 AM
  #28  
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I went reman OEM. Reason being, the remans seem to have fixed the issue that wears out on the factory part. I guess instead of running the pinion shaft in a machined cast bore, the remans bush the bore for extended life. That was good enough for me. Plus the fact that a mechanic friend had some bad aftermarket parts to replace after not so many miles. Extra money for fancy paint is no way to live.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 07:37 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by carbon coupe
I guess instead of running the pinion shaft in a machined cast bore, the remans bush the bore for extended life. That was good enough for me. .
^ that sounds sounds like dealer salesman talk to me.

copy paste direct from Fords website

"Gear housing that does not meet stringent inspection standards is replaced with new original equipment gear housing – no sleeved gear housings are used"

https://www.fordparts.com/Products/S...Gearboxes.aspx



.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 07:57 AM
  #30  
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Our plow truck has an OEM box that was installed the same time the plow was put on.

It has been a good box however within the first couple years the top cover cracked in half where the adjustment stud and nut are. I replaced just the cover and no problems since.

A guy could get a bad box from anywhere. I am sure if there were group buys from OEM there would be a few bad apples as well. How easy and painless the exchange after that makes a difference for some.
 
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