LED Headlights
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,103
Likes: 1
From: Lakeland, TN
I got the $150 version. I was concern about the draw on the hotter light. Isn't there a picture on their site when you scroll to the bottom of the page?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 794
Likes: 1
From: Ontario
I know no one wants to be the guy with HIDs but if you aim them correctly for the beam pattern you cant beat the price. I have HID headlights and foglights, always turn fogs off way before oncomming traffic and my beams are adjusted so high beams are a regular low beam and lows are ultra low so there is no chance of flashing someone. I usually use a lightbar on nice open roads
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
I am using a bright box IA Bill, I would olikely continue to use it as well if I did this upgrade. My only reservation is the fact they don't recommend for DRLs. And I have DRLs running. Suppose I could pull one of the many DRL fuses(4?)
Mountain Pass
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 239
Likes: 4
From: north carolina
Mountain Pass
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 199
Likes: 3
70 watts per light too, 10 watts more than incandescent high beams. I don't know if the harness will handle this well. But I would really like the light output. I also have bright box which powers from each battery, separately, allows driving lights to be on on high beam and burns both filaments on high beam. idk! Maybe better the standard H13 and H10s for the driving lights.
Be careful with the Brite Box.....
I replaced my OEM headlight and fog with the 4000kv PIAA's and they caused the Brite Box to fail.... maybe too much resistance?
Anyways, I pulled the Brite Box
Alan from San Diego
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
I am using PIAA in both headlights and driving lights, for 5 years, no problems, other than one headlight low beam just died in the H13. The LEDs are far lower wattage actual than incandescent bulbs which are 55/60 watt actual in the PIAA. I don't think you will have problems as the lower heat production of an LED.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,103
Likes: 1
From: Lakeland, TN
Got them installed-ish today. Had to buy new retaining rings as mine were trashed. The bulbs fit very loosely and will no doubt bounce around as you drive. I'd think that will have to look like flicker, but it's not dark yet so I can't be sure. Also, one high beam won't work. Supposedly, they'll replace it, no problem. They are VERY bright and much whiter than stock. A daylight picture I took did not show that very well, so I won't attach it. In all, I'd say I'm not happy, but there's a chance that I will be if either I'm told there supposed to be loose or somebody can tell me how I screwed up and didn't get them tight.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
When you turn the bulb in, doesn't it have to have all they're tabs aligned and then thread into th housing until it stops and is locked? Take in and out your existing bulb? It should slide in, twist and tighten same as original bulb? I see your a 2003 so not the H13 like my 2005 model year, you have instead what type of bulb, doesn't the bulb socket look the same as your stock type bulb?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,103
Likes: 1
From: Lakeland, TN
When you turn the bulb in, doesn't it have to have all they're tabs aligned and then thread into th housing until it stops and is locked? Take in and out your existing bulb? It should slide in, twist and tighten same as original bulb? I see your a 2003 so not the H13 like my 2005 model year, you have instead what type of bulb, doesn't the bulb socket look the same as your stock type bulb?
Logistics Pro
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 3,604
Likes: 865
Man that is a lot of money and hearing some of the failure stories some of you fellas have had, I'll keep my hid's.
I outfitted my main and fogs with 35w 8k color 5 years ago for 70.00 from DDM tuning..... Still going strong!
I spent a while adjusting them and needless to say, I never get flashed by oncoming traffic.
I outfitted my main and fogs with 35w 8k color 5 years ago for 70.00 from DDM tuning..... Still going strong!
I spent a while adjusting them and needless to say, I never get flashed by oncoming traffic.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,103
Likes: 1
From: Lakeland, TN
I went back out and worked on it some more. There just does not seem to be a "click in" aspect to the bulb itself. It has a bead that clicks into a housing that fits inside the retaining ring. You can easily pull it out of that, but I doubt it would bounce out. It's still very loose in the fitting and can wobble all it wants.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 4,424
Likes: 12
From: BC Canada
Having just experienced replacing a burned out PIAA with the stock bulb, I can honestly say, it's a pain in the butt. The best thing to do to get the new bulbs in is to pull the whole dang light assembly out to get the bulb in properly, then fit it in, plug in the harness, then re aim the bulb/light housing. The 9007 is a low and high beam like my H13 and it has to go in the housing exactly correct to place the low and high beam in the correct place. You will see three little tabs on the cylinder of the bulb housing, they have to be oriented exactly correctly so the bulb twists in and locks in the correct position. Play with your old bulb to see this. I had to use my reading glasses. On the H13, there is one thick tab on the cylinder of the bulb, and two smaller ones, set apart evenly at about 120 degrees from each other. The 9007 will have a different but unique configuration on these tabs. When you get it right, you will see what I mean, my one bulb took me 20 minutes all in to take all apart and get the new bulb in correctly. Reward with appropriate beverages of your choice.