Lowering options
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Lowering options
I've got a all stock 67 f100 and I've done a lot of research on options to lower it. Looking to drop the back about 5" and the front 3" or more. I think I've figured out the cost of parts for all my options but I'm unable to do the labor anymore due to my health so I'll be looking at having the work done. Anyone out there have any idea what I'm looking at on labor costs for the different options?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
The low-buck way to get what you want is bolt-on with minimal fabrication....That would lead me to conclude DJM dream beams for the front and a bolt-on axle flip and C-notch for the back.
DJM beams $600
Fatman Fabrications Bolt-on Axle Flip $550
Shop labor ranges from $70 to $100 per hour. Budget $500 for the front and $700 for the rear.
If you have gearhead friends, about three large pizzas and four cases of cold adult beverages.
DJM beams $600
Fatman Fabrications Bolt-on Axle Flip $550
Shop labor ranges from $70 to $100 per hour. Budget $500 for the front and $700 for the rear.
If you have gearhead friends, about three large pizzas and four cases of cold adult beverages.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 8,679
Likes: 191
From: On the Edge of the Desert
^what he said
Two most popular options in the front...
Dream beams, CV swap.
Most popular options in the rear...
Lowering shackles, with Axle flip, with C-notch. If you do the CV front, you can do a CV/explorer/82-83F-100 rear to get a matching bolt pattern. The explorer and CV will have disc brakes.
Two most popular options in the front...
Dream beams, CV swap.
Most popular options in the rear...
Lowering shackles, with Axle flip, with C-notch. If you do the CV front, you can do a CV/explorer/82-83F-100 rear to get a matching bolt pattern. The explorer and CV will have disc brakes.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I was considering CV swap as #2 option but I'm sure the labor costs are going to be much higher and I wasn't aware of the different bolt patterns from stock rear end. I've been told there's a noticeable negative camber when you use the dream beams for the front.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 294
Likes: 1
The camber shouldn't change with Dream Beams. I put a set on my 72 recently. I haven't finished installing all of my front sheet metal yet, but it looks like I may be able to trim a half coil or so, to get the camber right. I'm waiting until I can drive it a bit before cutting coils. On the rear, I flipped the hangers, (half flip) and I'm buying longer shackles. I'm not planning to notch the frame at this time. I'm installing flat bump stops, and should have at least an inch of travel. I'll try that for a while.
Although the CV swap is cool and popular, the labor costs will be high if you can't do it yourself. And you have the problem of changing the rearend to a matching bolt pattern. I chose the beams partly because I'm using steel wheels with dog dish hubcaps. I don't want to buy fancy wheels. I'm going for a low buck shop truck look. (Low buck has turned into a joke though)
Although the CV swap is cool and popular, the labor costs will be high if you can't do it yourself. And you have the problem of changing the rearend to a matching bolt pattern. I chose the beams partly because I'm using steel wheels with dog dish hubcaps. I don't want to buy fancy wheels. I'm going for a low buck shop truck look. (Low buck has turned into a joke though)
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
They probably thought lowering is a matter of cutting the coil springs... that's where the negative camber is resulted because it is as if the suspension is compressed.
A CV swap would require significantly more labor hours plus fabricating engine mounts... and the engine has to be removed. A dream beam setup basically requires just removing and replacing, inter alia, the i-beams.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Excluding the EFI, Tremec TKO five-speed, and Mach 1 upholstery.... I've got at total of about $7500 in my truck. It would have been fine with a Summit 600 cfm carb, NP-435, and bench seat but what fun is that???
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
Thanks for all the input guys. I think I'm going with the full flip with C notch in the rear and dream beams up front with about a quarter to a half a coil cut out up front depending on how much drop I get with the drop beams.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
And read the OP's first post - He's farming out the labor.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
It would be awesome to have the 5" drop in the front that you get from the CV swap. Not to mention the great ride but I've got a complete finished truck other than the lowered stance I want. Not having endless funds or the health to do the work myself that I would have done not all so long ago, I think my best option again is rear end flip with new shocks and C notch the frame along with Dream Beams new proggresive lowering coils and shocks up front.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 90
Likes: 1
From: Richmond, TX
Yeah, i agree if the truck is put together, the CV mod would be too much work. I have the same dilema but, Im working on a bare frame. The 68 I bought has a severe front hit, so I bought a bare frame to swap cab and bed. I just cant decide what route to take on the suspension? If i leave it as is i could get it on the road faster, but that CV kit sure has me torn.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 83
From: NorCal
Yeah, i agree if the truck is put together, the CV mod would be too much work. I have the same dilema but, Im working on a bare frame. The 68 I bought has a severe front hit, so I bought a bare frame to swap cab and bed. I just cant decide what route to take on the suspension? If i leave it as is i could get it on the road faster, but that CV kit sure has me torn.
Rear Suspensions and Truck Arms - Street Rodder Magazine
Hotrods to Hell
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
I believe if I was in your situation I would put the CV in. I looked around as I was kicking my decision around and saw low mile complete Crown Vic front ends from salvage yards for less than $700. This will give your 68 a ride like a luxury car!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
flowney
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
21
Oct 17, 2016 08:59 PM
fordtruckguy78
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Jun 13, 2016 06:46 PM