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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Wanted, 2, 8ba connecting rods

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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #16  
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'fenders, you have to watch out on the Barn for guys who ONLY know the 59-series engines, and not the 8BA's. They sometimes make statements that are true for 59's that aren't for 8BA's. It gets confusing. Add in the contradictory language in the manuals and it makes for hours of conversation.

Mike, be sure to have the sludge traps pulled on your crank and the passages really really cleaned out.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 10:43 AM
  #17  
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Mike

I PMd you. They came apart too easy. Perhaps the first flatty task that was truly simple

Ross, yeah I know there are a lot of internet "facts" that ain't actually facts.

And on a completely unrelated note I hope to find an F1 with a flatty 6 for my next stock as possible project. I am thinking that might keep the price down to something I could afford.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 10:52 AM
  #18  
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Why would it be cheaper with a 6? Parts for them seem to be either unavailable, or 2X the price of higher-volume V8 parts. Oil pumps, water pumps, etc are real hard to find.

I meant to say that the piston pins are full-floating, usually come out with little drama. Not like SBF pins!
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
Why would it be cheaper with a 6? Parts for them seem to be either unavailable, or 2X the price of higher-volume V8 parts. Oil pumps, water pumps, etc are real hard to find.

I meant to say that the piston pins are full-floating, usually come out with little drama. Not like SBF pins!
Because I have seen guys throw unstuck flatty 6s in the trash. Flatty V8s are gold. I was unaware of rebuild parts prices. Thought i could find some pistons, rings and bearings. Maybe I am forever doomed to SBF builds
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 03:33 PM
  #20  
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Crank is at the machine shop. Might squeak 30 under but probably need to go 40 under size. Shells appear to be available for 30 and 40 under so I should be OK.

Found a great place. It's refreshing when you walk in and they know what the crank is out of without me telling them and more impressive they know what the nominal journal size is without looking it up. Yes they were correct, I had already looked it up before I went.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 04:29 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by F1 Mike
Crank is at the machine shop. Might squeak 30 under but probably need to go 40 under size. Shells appear to be available for 30 and 40 under so I should be OK.

Found a great place. It's refreshing when you walk in and they know what the crank is out of without me telling them and more impressive they know what the nominal journal size is without looking it up. Yes they were correct, I had already looked it up before I went.
Glad you found a good shop Mike. It can be painful to find a good machinist. I have had some bad experiences on a few builds but I always catch it on assembly inspection and make it right. Some folks are scared of cranks cut that much. No need to be but now you have numerous things that can go wrong so double check and make sure your clearances are dead perfect. Even if it means reconditioning the rods or touching up the crank a few more ten thousandths don't ever settle for incorrect oil clearance. A machininist convinced me of this long ago and I have gotten get away with some crazy RPMS, using nitrous etc on numerous brand engines. Never spun a bearing or wiped out a thrust and trust me I have tried. Not that you are doing any of that but nothing is more important in a build than proper clearances. Most folks get their stuff and just roll with it for better or worse. Sorry if I am preaching but it truly matters.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 06:17 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by fatfenders
Glad you found a good shop Mike. It can be painful to find a good machinist. I have had some bad experiences on a few builds but I always catch it on assembly inspection and make it right. Some folks are scared of cranks cut that much. No need to be but now you have numerous things that can go wrong so double check and make sure your clearances are dead perfect. Even if it means reconditioning the rods or touching up the crank a few more ten thousandths don't ever settle for incorrect oil clearance. A machininist convinced me of this long ago and I have gotten get away with some crazy RPMS, using nitrous etc on numerous brand engines. Never spun a bearing or wiped out a thrust and trust me I have tried. Not that you are doing any of that but nothing is more important in a build than proper clearances. Most folks get their stuff and just roll with it for better or worse. Sorry if I am preaching but it truly matters.
I'm a mechanical engineer so I have that 'never good enough' gene. I will measure everything carefully before it goes back together. If I was being really fussy there are a few things I would have re-done inside the engine but as it's a 'stocker' and the previous rebuild is very fresh there really is no need. So as much as it hard for me to resist doing more this repair is going to be done economically.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 06:20 PM
  #23  
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Update. Fatfenders the rods worked out perfectly. Had to remove 3 grams from one and 6 from another to match the damaged rods. Thanks a lot, much appreciated.

Used a local shop and I'm super happy with the result on the crank.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2015 | 07:22 PM
  #24  
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Very pleased to hear it worked out Mike.
 
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