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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 04:02 PM
  #31  
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Nothing is showing yet, hence today was worse than yesterday to buy a truck, unless you want the 0% for 60 option. SuperDuty 2015 rebates reverted back to the better rebates they had a few months ago and some of the other 2015 models picked up 0% but no major changes as of today other than no Friends and Neighbor promotion. I'll keep watching.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 04:11 PM
  #32  
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Interesting.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2015 | 05:58 PM
  #33  
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I don't feel like I missed out......I don't mind haggling, they want a sale they'll work with you....sales promo, rebates or not
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 08:35 AM
  #34  
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Haggling is well and good, but the thing about F&N is it did put a few hundred more bucks in the deal. No matter how it's sliced, the deal was better Monday than today other than the 0% option. No change as of this morning. Not sure the strategy here from Ford.

You're correct that my first and for most goal is to sell you the truck. I will give the thing away for anything I don't lose money on so long as you take the darn thing today (I won't give such a quote over the phone or email, I need sales, not numbers for you to get it $50 cheaper some where else). So the best deal is when you're both physically ready to sign right now in front of me, but also willing to walk away (though you don't have to walk away, just use your leverage and buy the darn thing).
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 08:39 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Frantz
Haggling is well and good, but the thing about F&N is it did put a few hundred more bucks in the deal. No matter how it's sliced, the deal was better Monday than today other than the 0% option. No change as of this morning. Not sure the strategy here from Ford.

You're correct that my first and for most goal is to sell you the truck. I will give the thing away for anything I don't lose money on so long as you take the darn thing today (I won't give such a quote over the phone or email, I need sales, not numbers for you to get it $50 cheaper some where else). So the best deal is when you're both physically ready to sign right now in front of me, but also willing to walk away (though you don't have to walk away, just use your leverage and buy the darn thing).
The strategy is the modern car buyer looks at monthly payments and not total price. They see F&N and yet 2.9% finance and back off. They see 0% for 60 and think hell yeah even though F&N is substantially better.

Josh
 
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Old Dec 2, 2015 | 09:08 AM
  #36  
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0% is free money! You just have to give up $5k in rebates!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2015 | 03:55 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by tseekins
I've said numerous times that when truck shopping, knock 20% right off the top and make an offer based on that. The money is there to support that kind of a discount.
Has that worked for you? Not at all trying to be sarcastic... I genuinely want to know what your experience has been.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 12:10 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
The strategy is the modern car buyer looks at monthly payments and not total price. They see F&N and yet 2.9% finance and back off. They see 0% for 60 and think hell yeah even though F&N is substantially better.
It infuriates me when a salesdroid starts with the "what do you want to pay a month?" tactic.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 06:57 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Frantz
0% is free money! You just have to give up $5k in rebates!
Now you can get 0% and keep the rebates.

I would imagine that if you were in the market for a leftover 2015, you could make an offer slightly below X-Plan, minus rebates, minus the $1,000 Ford coupon, at 0% financing for up to 60 months, and you'd have a heck of a deal...
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 10:14 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by ABolt1
Now you can get 0% and keep the rebates.

I would imagine that if you were in the market for a leftover 2015, you could make an offer slightly below X-Plan, minus rebates, minus the $1,000 Ford coupon, at 0% financing for up to 60 months, and you'd have a heck of a deal...
2015 is an old truck at this point, even if it were produced August 1, 2015, that is a one year old truck now.

When I ordered my truck the dealer suggested looking at a 2015, and I mentioned the same thing, a 2015 is an old truck why would I pay the same for an old truck when I can get a brand new truck?

With that said and 2016 around the corner, I would start with a minimum $4k off invoice + incentives/rebates for a 2015.

Josh
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 10:27 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by tvsjr
It infuriates me when a salesdroid starts with the "what do you want to pay a month?" tactic.


http://www.autonews.com/article/2015...-beats-friends

Such flawed logic for today's consumer.

Josh
 
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Old Dec 6, 2015 | 05:25 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
2015 is an old truck at this point, even if it were produced August 1, 2015, that is a one year old truck now.

When I ordered my truck the dealer suggested looking at a 2015, and I mentioned the same thing, a 2015 is an old truck why would I pay the same for an old truck when I can get a brand new truck?

With that said and 2016 around the corner, I would start with a minimum $4k off invoice + incentives/rebates for a 2015.

Josh
The 2015 XLT 4x4 302A crew cabs have X-Plan prices that are around $5K less than the similarly-equipped 2016s. I'll take the $5K and an "old" new truck, but that's just me.

In 12 years when it's an old beater, the 2015/2016 argument will be moot, but the $5K I saved will not...
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 11:51 AM
  #43  
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It infuriates me when a salesdroid starts with the "what do you want to pay a month?" tactic.
It's not as "evil" as many "informed" customers think. Because of the different rebate programs, knowing whats important to you does matter. Cash is different than finance. Short term is different than long term. Large down payment is different than small down payment. I had a fellow the other day as for my "rock bottom" price on a Fusion, I asked if he wanted my best price or best payment. He looked dumbfounded, and after going over everything he picked the more expensive price with the lower payment. If you aren't paying the car off early, this ends up being less money. So it's a valid question.

We get lots of request on used cars for $10k cars or something like that. Really they want a $100 payment. No matter how you do the math, you won't get a $100 payment out of a $10k car with $0 down in any honest payment plan. I could give you a Ferrari for $10k, but if you can't afford a $150-$250 payment you won't be taking it home. Most customers don't even read the worst "how to buy a car" guidelines before shopping, so payment is not only a way that we can make money, it also is the quickest way to help most consumers get what they actually want/need/can afford. Not one size fits all but valid.

Yes, to the less educated, you can be taken for a ride on payment shopping, but it's the simplest math for financing customers. Payment X term + money down = cost. No fees, hidden charges, inflated interest rates or anything else can hide from this math. It's the best apples to apples compare. It also is what really matters to you and me when we are buying. Since I can't pay for a car out of pocket, monthly payment matters more than what the "real" cost is.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 12:30 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by ABolt1
I'll take the $5K and an "old" new truck, but that's just me.
Me too, I always find the deals are greater this way.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2015 | 06:52 PM
  #45  
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Heard on radio today a local dealer is still offering freinds/family plus rebates plus 0% for 72
 
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