Front Coil Spring help
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Front Coil Spring help
Hey All,
So my coil springs were rusted real bad and broken on one side, so i bought some new rancho 4" lifted coil springs but having a heck of a time getting it in, Had a pain getting the old one out as well. From all i've seen the front axle should just hang down where the springs almost fall out, thats not the case with mine, it hangs maybe half an inch of that. Ive got the jack lifted where the arm meets the frame raised up quite a bit ( with a jackstand on the frame as well ) but i cant seem to get the axle down anymore, my truck does not have the sway bar link and ive already taken the ball join link out to see if that would help. Only thing still attached is the caliper and the arm. I've tried 3 different spring compressors and still cant get these things down enough to get them in, im still off by like an inch - 2 inches. Is there anything else i can do or any advice?
95 F150
4x4
302
32x11.5x15R
So my coil springs were rusted real bad and broken on one side, so i bought some new rancho 4" lifted coil springs but having a heck of a time getting it in, Had a pain getting the old one out as well. From all i've seen the front axle should just hang down where the springs almost fall out, thats not the case with mine, it hangs maybe half an inch of that. Ive got the jack lifted where the arm meets the frame raised up quite a bit ( with a jackstand on the frame as well ) but i cant seem to get the axle down anymore, my truck does not have the sway bar link and ive already taken the ball join link out to see if that would help. Only thing still attached is the caliper and the arm. I've tried 3 different spring compressors and still cant get these things down enough to get them in, im still off by like an inch - 2 inches. Is there anything else i can do or any advice?
95 F150
4x4
302
32x11.5x15R
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Sebring OHIO
this may sound like a foolish question. did you unhook the shock? if so make sure the caliper is removed from the bracket. you can place a 2x4 through the radius arm placing the end of it on the engine cross member. then pry down. i had to do the same thing when i replaced the coil springs on my 96. if everything is unhooked except the the radius arm and I beam. you should have no problem prying the beam down to release the spring.
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,558
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From: New Zealand
I've removed two or three sets on 2WD trucks, & as long as the shock is removed first, the springs come right out if the truck is jacked up sufficiently.
No compressing of the spring is needed......just remove the clip at the top of the coil & the 3/4" nut at the bottom.
No compressing of the spring is needed......just remove the clip at the top of the coil & the 3/4" nut at the bottom.
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Yeah 4x4 is quite different then 2wd, on 4x4 you got the driveshaft or whatever you wanna call it running wheel to wheel on the front plus the ibeam axle which makes it a real pain to do as it wont drop fully down. i had to get someone to push the hub down with there foot while prying up the side of the truck to get it in, and yes the shock was unhooked, it was so rusted i ended up cutting the nut and stud off because it wouldnt seperate. went with new rancho shocks to match the springs. Had to compress them a good 5-6 inches so they could get in. Lucky the other coil spring is broken in half so getting it out shouldn't be an issue, although not looking forward to getting the new one in. Safe to say ill probably need an alignment though right? going stock height to a 4" lift with big tires ( although the tires have been on there since i bought the truck )
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2015
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From: Sebring OHIO
if you are going to a 4" lift. i think you will need to swap out the pit man arm on the steering box before you go for front alignment.
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Why would that need replaced?
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From: Sebring OHIO
when you lift the truck you change the distance between the spindle and steering box. the inner tie rod and drag link may not be long enough to compensate for the lift. you may need to get a replacement pit man arm that drops down low enough to reach the drag link. i am not sure how much lift you can do before you would have to swap the arm. I know that the F350 4X4 comes stock with a drop pit man arm on the steering box. the F350 also has a solid axle and uses different steering linkage / tie rod ends. it's just something you may want to look into or be prepared for when you go in for alignment.
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when you lift the truck you change the distance between the spindle and steering box. the inner tie rod and drag link may not be long enough to compensate for the lift. you may need to get a replacement pit man arm that drops down low enough to reach the drag link. i am not sure how much lift you can do before you would have to swap the arm. I know that the F350 4X4 comes stock with a drop pit man arm on the steering box. the F350 also has a solid axle and uses different steering linkage / tie rod ends. it's just something you may want to look into or be prepared for when you go in for alignment.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
+1, you will never get the front end geometry correct on that thing without drop brackets for all suspension points, a drop pittman arm, and camber adjustment shims. And personally I'd also want extended radius arms.
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All the suspension points actually look decent without any strain honestly, If i can find where to get the drop arm brackets then ill go ahead and throw them in, Does a shop have to adjust the camber or is that something i can do? Im guessing camber is whats causing my wheels not to be straight up and down? they both are on angles now lol. Planned on going monday for an alignment if they are able to adjust it
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I just spent 200$ on them, getting rid of them isn't an option. I need to know what to do to make the tires straight again instead of pointed in