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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Having some real bad luck here

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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 06:23 AM
  #1  
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psu927
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Having some real bad luck here

I've been posting on here about an 05 king ranch I bought. Found out after I bought it that the #7 cylinder is washed, so long story short I bought an 80k mile replacement engine.

Tore it apart for studs and to reseal the pan and bedplate and noticed the drivers side head was new. Figured it was a warranty job from ford. (20mm head, new injectors on that side) Did the bedplate seal, Went to turn the engine back over after doing the bedplate and heard something fall. Long story short it was one of the piston cooling jets. I never saw it when I did the bedplate. I start looking and see that a piston was replaced in this truck and when it was installed it was put in backwards, so the cutout for the jet was on the wrong side. I think the truck was ran like this at least a little while.

So now, where do I want to go from here. I am still pretty sure its a low mileage engine. I just don't know why the piston was replaced. Is it possible to bore out one piston without doing everything? I am thinking about just putting it back together the right way and running it. Just need some insight and advice. Does ford stamp there rods and pistons a certain way? I want to be sure one cylinder wasn't bored out.

The place I got the engine from is sending me a complete replacement. Only problem is it was a burnt truck so mileage is unknown. But I know this one had low mileage. Just need some advice and a pep talk. lol


I guess my 2 biggest questions are, can I just flip the piston and rod over and install a new squirter and call it good? And would it have been possibly for them to bore one cylinder out without removing the other head? (based on condition, I'm pretty sure the other head was never removed). Also, when I resealed my bedplate the first time, torqued in equal steps to I think 170ft lbs, I couldn't turn the crank after the install. it didn't turn until I loostened the plate. Didn't use assembly lube on bearings, just a light coat of oil. Any idea why?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 07:06 AM
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Is there any visible damage to the cylinder wall? How does the cylinder wall look compared to the others? Does is have fresh cross hatch marks from being honed? Probably the best way to use a digital/dial caliper and check to see if it is a bigger hole than the rest.

I really don't know what the "right" thing is to do here. Perhaps just turning the rod around and installing a new piston jet is all that is needed... Is there any shrapnel from the jet inside or is it all in one piece?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 08:16 AM
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No shrapnel, I'd say the bore looks comparable to the others. There is a reputable rebuild shop here and he quoted me 1500 to go over it completely, deck the block, clean it etc... Might go that route
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 08:49 AM
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Sounds kind of steep, what does that include? You are right now is the best time to go through it and you will KNOW what's been done. Ford rebuild kits are pricey, but I wouldn't go any other way IMO!

It is a fun process if you aren't strapped for time and $$$.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 08:53 AM
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included disassembly and assembly, new main bearings, honing all cylinders and new rings. Think its steep?
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 09:10 AM
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Not for all of that no. I thought you were just talking about machine work. ðŸ‘ðŸ»
 
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