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Light came on a few days ago. 2000 exc with 7.3 diesel the milage report said 155000. Took it to Autozone a hour ago and these are the codes: P0683,P0676 and P1670. Any help will be appreciated.
thanks
For future reference since you're new here, the scanners at most parts stores can't pull all the codes for more in depth stuff. This time around you should be just fine though.
P0683 - glow plug relay to PCM circuit failure (they aren't talking)
P0676 - glow plug #6 circuit
P1670 - EF circuit open (IDM related) This could also be voltage/ground related, these things do weird stuff when electrical power isn't on point. For example, one of our friends had a weak starter and he was popping this code.
OK thanks. Where do I need to go from here to correct the problem? Is there a place I should start or is this information already on the site? I will try a search on the issue to see if the information is posted.
thanks
The Excursions and California Pick-Ups have a Glow Plug Control Module, When there is a P0683 code there is a fault on the PCM to GPCM circuit.
the P0676 is a fault specific to the Glow plug #6 Circuit. This circuit goes from the GPCM to the drivers side valve cover harness. I would pull the 9 pin connector off the drivers side valve cover and inspect both ends of the connector. See if you see any burnt pins. With the 1670 code - this can be related to the connector as well.
to be sure that none of the codes are historical I would clear the trouble codes, restart the truck and recheck the trouble codes so that way you aren't chasing a ghost with one of the codes.
Took it to dealer and this is what I have: P0236, P1670, P0676 and P1139. Reset codes and will see when they return. Also said the intake heater relay is bad. Anything I can do while I wait for the light to come back?
thanks
I would pull the 9 pin connector off the drivers side valve cover and inspect both ends of the connector. See if you see any burnt pins. Here is a link if you would like to ohm test the harness & glow plugs. There is a good video at the bottom of the page for testing the glow plugs.
Also, P1139 is Water in Fuel Indicator Circuit Error, doesn't mean you have water in the fuel, but there was an error in the circuit. So, I would removed that connector from the fuel bowl & clean it off with some electrical contact cleaner.
thanks, will do. Found a post about the heater delete, is this a good thing to do? Also forgot to list a bad #8 injector. Think I read a post about the #8 injector and the GPM??
Light back on today. Pulled the water wire and cleaned with electronic cleaner, pulled the module end and cleaned with the same spray, still trying to see how to get the driver side valve cover connection off. Will check the web to see if there is some information about how to remove the connector.
thanks, will do. Found a post about the heater delete, is this a good thing to do? Also forgot to list a bad #8 injector. Think I read a post about the #8 injector and the GPM??
A common test run on these is PERDELS which shows how much each cylinder is contributing to idle. Ideally they will all contribute equally and the difference between them would be zero. But this is not God's pickup, it's yours, so the difference is never, ever zero. It will typically show 3 and 8 being most different and these codes are easily misconstrued as a "bad" injector. So maybe #8 is bad, but if that is just a code from a PERDELS test it is completely normal.
Disconnecting the fuel bowl heater wire is a common practice. If the heater element shorts it will blow the fuse, and that same fuse powers the Powertrain Control Module, thus leaving you on the side of the road. Folks pull the wire off to prevent that from happening. You only need the heater if you live in a really cold place. I chose to unplug the heater element inside the bowl but leave the external wire connected. That way the heater is not a potential problem, but the water in fuel light function is preserved.
CEL means another code stored. If you have a cell phone there are apps and equipment that will enable you to pull the code. Search the interweb for Torque app and ELM 327 OBDII adaptor.
Light has returned, do I need to have the shop check the codes again or do I just accept the last report and go for the #6 glow plug and #8 injector? Removed the connection and sprayed with contact cleaner. Also sprayed the water connection on the fuel filter. Still have a bad intake heater relay and plan to remove the coil and install the delete??
thanks
#8 Injector is a common fault. I wouldn't jump on that without running a Cylinder Contribution Test at the minimum, PERDELs and a buzz test would also be a good indicator. Find someone nearby with Auto Enginuity to run that test for you.
If your going to do glowplugs, I would recommend doing them all.
They ran the buzz test last time so I assume the code is from that information. I have seen video and post about using an ohmmeter to test resistance but not convinced this will work with the GPCM. I would like to know if this is a sure thing and how/what I need to do to check the glow plugs and injectors using this method, if it will provide useful information, before I jump in to do something I am not familiar doing. I have very little experience around a diesel. This site has a lot of information about replacing the gp's and injectors which I can check to get the information I need. If this is a bad idea please let me know.
thanks
