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If the shop cleared all the codes and the check engine light went off and it returned right away then something should be stored as a trouble code. If it came back after you left then that means the problem was not currently happening during the test but came up later on.
Just want to make sure we are all on the same sheet of music.
The proper procedure is to:
Read all trouble codes & print or write them down.
Clear all trouble codes.
Scan for trouble codes again and see which ones are still current.
You want to do it this way because there is no way to determine if the codes are current or historical.
I don't see any strong evidence of an injector issue with the trouble codes you listed, but it could be. I would focus on the GPCM, the UVC wire harness, glow plugs and the connectors at the valve covers first. The benefit of the GPCM is that it monitors each individual glow plug and will set a trouble code with a check engine light when something is not functioning properly. The GP relay does not have that capability.
Excursions usually will throw a trouble code when the air intake heater is malfunctioning. You don't have that code. So I'm not sure if that is malfunctioning. Plus, according to your profile - you live in SOuth Carolina- so your AIH is most likely not even coming on. It takes a specific set of cold operating conditions in order for this relay to be activated by the PCM.
The light returned after a day and I have not checked the codes. Does seem to have a slight rough run but no problem with starting, it may take twice to start but we don't really have cold weather and it is in the garage. No smoke that I have noticed but seem to have low power if you step on the pedal and go to passing gear. The shop said the intake heater relay was bad and they also noted a bad #8 injector on the report. Plan to delete the heater, don't think it will be missed. I plan to go back to Autozone in the morning to see if they repeat the same error codes as before.
Thanks
Number 8 injector always fails, don't worry about that. Don't worry about the AIH relay if your going to delete it anyways which may be part of the engine light and or something else.
New Under Valve Cover Harness (UVCH) if it hasn't been done yet and chech the torque on the injector hold down bolts. Inspect the valve hover gasket for any burnt or corroded pins.
Started with maintenance items today:
Ford fuel filter
Ford oil filter and Rotella 15w40 oil
Plugged the intake heater
Ordered a valve cover connection and have the following resistance readings, meter set to the 200 ohm range, form the firewall out: 0.6,0.7,3.1,3.0,3.0,3.1,0.6,&0.6. Used the alt for a ground when checking the GP's and the center wire when checking the injectors.
Plan to start on a leaking power steering hose and a reman OEM Ford steering gear box tomorrow.
Will delay the GP's unless the readings are bad or if I made an error in the way they were checked.
thanks for the help and information
continued with the maintenance and completed the steering gear box and hose. Steering wheel is off center a little to the right and I guess a trip to the shop for alignment, to center the steering, is in the future. Still have the light and have not chased the cause since checking the resistance. X still starts, sometime takes two cycles. Will visit the local shop for a check on the service engine light this week. Any thoughts or comments on the items listed so far?
Ohms should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms when testing the glow plugs individually. I would pull the valve cover off and remove the UVC Harness and inspect for any burnt pins/connections (a 30 minute job - not difficult to do) . It's not uncommon to find something like this after 10-15 years of service.
OK removed the valve cover: wiring is good and torque is good. Resistance is the same as I posted before. Service light returned, today after sitting a day or two, the battery ran down low and on the third try it started and the service light was out??? What would clear the light when all I did was try to start the truck with what I consider a low battery charge?
thanks
...Steering wheel is off center a little to the right and I guess a trip to the shop for alignment, to center the steering, is in the future...
One of the benefits of a solid front axle is the simplicity of the steering system. All you have to do is loosen the adjustment tube (two 19mm nuts IIRC) on the steering linkage that goes from the pitman arm to the passenger drag link (see attached picture...tube is circled in red). spin the tube to adjust the steering wheel and then tighten the nuts to 41 ft-lbs. If you find that you are still not centered repeat the process until you have the wheel adjusted to your satisfaction.
The lower adjustment tube between the knuckles adjusts the toe which is where you'd get the alignment shop involved. The camber is adjusted by a sleeve that the upper ball joint goes through. Unless you've installed an adjustable sleeve the last time you replaced the ball joints then the camber cannot be changed.
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