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bad injector?

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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 09:11 PM
  #1  
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bad injector?

my excursion just started hard and had rough idle one morning then code P0270 - injector, FICM or wires between are the logical choices I think.


started with wires - all connections good at FICM and injectors (applied dielectric silicone) - checked all 4 wires from injector connector pins for resistance with omh meter from X-1 connector. no change


so next is FICM. couple years back sent to ed for repair. if I remember right it was power supply side only so the "brain" side might have gone? good news is could I get a loaner FICM off fellow 6.0 and installed (can't confirm condition of loaner - trucks been parked a while) same code same cylinder - no change.


I read somewhere possibly swapping two injectors (say 2 and 4?) and see if the code follows the injector or stays with the cylinder, further test for a bad FICM.


Does anyone think that is necessary? I would hate buy and replace the #4 injector just to put it back together to find no change then forking over 6 7 hundred more on a new FICM.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 09:24 PM
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and

sorry - 6.0, 2004 EXC, 155k, 2wd
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 10:49 PM
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Does it go away after it gets to op temp ?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2015 | 06:30 AM
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Take a ohm meter and ohm out the injector. Compare it to the injector next to it. Ther e is a open coil and a closed coil.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2015 | 07:02 AM
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That's a wiring code for either a bad wire or bad coil. If the wiring is good it's a coil......or FICM. I don't suspect the FICM.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 02:52 PM
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went quite a few miles with the "loaner" FICM and no change when at temp. same with original back in place.


injector pins are numbered 1 thru 4, please tell me which two will be open and the two that should be closed. I looked high and low for that info when I was checking the loom between FICM and injector connections for resistance.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 02:54 PM
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just read post #4 again and will use injector next to it for model of which is open and closed on the pins - got it!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 03:56 PM
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pins 1 and 2 =0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 3 and 4= 0.2 to 3.0 ohms
pins 1 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 1 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
pins 2 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 07:34 PM
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sorry for the delay in testing the injector but I got to it this weekend and.................


cyl 2 (good)/ cyl 4 (bad?)
0.9 - 1.2 / 0.9 - 1.1 - pins 1 and 2 =0.2 to 3.0 ohms
0.9 - 1.1 / no reading - pins 3 and 4= 0.2 to 3.0 ohms
no reading / no reading - pins 1 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
no reading / no reading - pins 1 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms
no reading / no reading - pins 2 and 3=greater than 10,000 ohms
no reading / no reading - pins 2 and 4=greater than 10,000 ohms


cylinder 4 was "low circuit" fault when problem began. so my question is.............


bad injector? any reason to test by swapping with #2 or is that a certain waste of time? I've read ford remanufactured w/ 24 month warranty is the way to go, what do you think? truck is stock except coolant filter and egr delete, no reason to upgrade in my opinion............................
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 08:50 PM
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P0270 INJ Cylinder Number 4 Injector Circuit Low Open circuit, fuel injector, FICM connector loose
P0271 INJ Cylinder Number 4 Injector Circuit High Circuit short to ground or voltage, fuel injector
P0272 INJ Cylinder Number 4 Contribution/Balance Power cylinder, valve train or injector


This from my notes^^^^^^


If you found an open circuit then you found the problem. No sense messing with any other injector IMO. Replace the bad one with a Ford OEM reman is a good idea.


.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2015 | 09:07 PM
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Looks like an open coil or pigtail on the injector. Ford reman is a good choice. You could maybe save a few $$ somewhere else but it would be a larger gamble.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2015 | 09:50 PM
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follow up - injector changed out, went with ford re-man from dealer and problem solved. idle and running smoother than ever, thanks to all for the help!
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 02:19 PM
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Just curious, since one of the coils went bad, can you just swap the coil vs the whole injector? I guess you still have to dig into the valve cover either way, so might as well go the whole way?
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by FiveOJester
Just curious, since one of the coils went bad, can you just swap the coil vs the whole injector? I guess you still have to dig into the valve cover either way, so might as well go the whole way?
Would save taking the entire injector out, might be worth the savings to some folks.
 
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Old Dec 16, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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Glad you got it fixed

I think the injector pigtail (or the connector at least) is available but not the coils.
 
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