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Recently I had a p0273 code, CEL, supposedly it's the #5 injector, second one near the firewall on the pass side head.
Pulled all the injectors, re oringed, cleaned them all. Same code. Replaced injector #5, while it did run better, the CEL went off but still the same code and same shaking at 1500rpms, ect. So then I replaced the injector harness. Same code. New IPR Valve, same code.
The weird thing to me is that it runs better cold then hot. When it's cold you cannot notice it has an issue. When the EOT get over 125 degrees is when it begins to idle erratic and shake at 1500 rpms. To me this tells me it's a mechanical issue rather then an electrical.
The only thing I can think else I can think of replacing is the injector cup sleeve. Other then that what could it be?
ficm in and out volts are good, plenty of icp starting and running. IPR is ok, camshafts are in sync. I don't know what to do now.
Recently I had a p0273 code, CEL, supposedly it's the #5 injector, second one near the firewall on the pass side head.
Pulled all the injectors, re oringed, cleaned them all. Same code. Replaced injector #5, while it did run better, the CEL went off but still the same code and same shaking at 1500rpms, ect. So then I replaced the injector harness. Same code. New IPR Valve, same code.
The weird thing to me is that it runs better cold then hot. When it's cold you cannot notice it has an issue. When the EOT get over 125 degrees is when it begins to idle erratic and shake at 1500 rpms. To me this tells me it's a mechanical issue rather then an electrical.
The only thing I can think else I can think of replacing is the injector cup sleeve. Other then that what could it be?
ficm in and out volts are good, plenty of icp starting and running. IPR is ok, camshafts are in sync. I don't know what to do now.
When you cleaned the injector what exactly did you clean? Did you completely disassemble the injector? I would try swapping injector #5 with #3 and see if the problem moves to #3.
Recently I had a p0273 code, CEL, supposedly it's the #5 injector, second one near the firewall on the pass side head.
Pulled all the injectors, re oringed, cleaned them all. Same code. Replaced injector #5, while it did run better, the CEL went off but still the same code and same shaking at 1500rpms, ect. So then I replaced the injector harness. Same code. New IPR Valve, same code.
The weird thing to me is that it runs better cold then hot. When it's cold you cannot notice it has an issue. When the EOT get over 125 degrees is when it begins to idle erratic and shake at 1500 rpms. To me this tells me it's a mechanical issue rather then an electrical.
The only thing I can think else I can think of replacing is the injector cup sleeve. Other then that what could it be?
ficm in and out volts are good, plenty of icp starting and running. IPR is ok, camshafts are in sync. I don't know what to do now.
P0273 is an injector circuit low code and lists the possible causes as a defective injector coil or open circuit so cleaning the injectors would not help you correct the problem. You have already replaced the harness the only thing left is the injector itself. I would still swap 3 & 5 and see if the problem follows but I would clear the code and turn the key to the run position before putting everything back together to let the FICM do its injector buzz test to see if the problem moves so you don't have to take it back apart to replace the bad injector.
I took every injector all the way down. Cleaned everything. After i cleaned them I still had the code and syptoms but they were not as bad. So then i replaced the injector with a new one, syptoms got better but it's still not running 100%. Like i said i replaced the harness so my next guess is the ficm is messed up, but i know what would be rare. It is a reman ficm that was replaced at 85k, i now have 136k.
I had the same thing happen to me after I had pulled the spool valves out for a cleaning (ran great cold, started to stumble once it got up to operating temps). What ended up happening was I had tightened the spool valve nut&bolt down too much and was causing the spool valves to hang up when hot. Everything was and has been fine and dandy since I repulled all of the injectors and lightened up on those bolts. I read one write up on here that the poster (name slips at this time) was stating that's those spool bolts only need a .5nM on them. Just to give you an idea how little that is 1nm = about .75 foot pounds. I would recheck those little nuts&bolts before looking at big $$$ items.
Well like I said, I replaced injector 5 with a brand new injector so I would highly doubt that the one I rebuilt and the new one was torqued to much.
It this point I would gladly replace the ficm if that was the problem. I don't care about cost, I care about not opening up a valve cover for the 10th time or so.
Is there anyway to test the voltage going into each injector with a SC2?
Just the ficm main power at 48 volts. You can ohm out the injectors from the ficm plug, easiest way would be to look at your old harness see which 4 wires go to injector 5 and see if those resistances match another injector. Simple process of elimination tells me the ficm needs sent to ficmrepair.com
I have personally sent mine to this shop and nothing but top notch quality and service. A low circuit code indicates a bad connection somewhere to injector 5.
Well like I said, I replaced injector 5 with a brand new injector so I would highly doubt that the one I rebuilt and the new one was torqued to much.
It this point I would gladly replace the ficm if that was the problem. I don't care about cost, I care about not opening up a valve cover for the 10th time or so.
Is there anyway to test the voltage going into each injector with a SC2?
Too bad you didn't know anyone with a 6.0 in your area. You could swap it out and see if it clears out.
There are 2 other voltages you can check with a SG2, FICM VEHICLE & FICM LOGIC. Both should be battery/charge voltage.
Thanks guys. I just ordered a new ficm from ficm repair. If nothing else having a new ficm will help me sleep better at night even if that is not the problem.
This is my 3rd 6.0 and I told myself from the beginning I was going to not be cheap if I have any problems with this truck. Repair everything better then new.
After I get this injector thing figured out all I need is a new turbo, egr cooler and headstuds/gaskets.
I emailed Ed today and he said the code is a very common issue with the factory ficms. So that gave me hope that I made the right choice. Sometime before the new ficm goes on I will have both alts rewound by a guy that does great work. I'll buy two new batteries also seeing how I can't find a date on the batteries in the truck, weird right?
i'm curious to what your original problem was. just a code, or was it running rough at 1500rpm also? how does it idle cold and warm? have you pulled any live data like icp, icp volts, ipr both koeo and koer? wondering if it could be something else that is being overlooked. have you done a bubble test? might not be your problem but it wont cost you a nickle to do either.
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