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AC Not Cold At Idle

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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 10:11 AM
  #1  
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AC Not Cold At Idle

It may not be the right forum, but I didn't see an AC forum and the problem is with my F-350.
The AC is cold while running down the road (maybe not cold enough) but at idle it isn't cold at all, in fact it may even be somewhat hot. I got a can of juice for it with a gauge. When I hooked it up to the system (low pressure side - which is the only place it fits) the needle jumped into the red zone. I don't have proper gauges.
How about some brain storming to give me an idea of what to do next to fix it. I don't want a shop. I can't afford the $6000 for a whole new system.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 10:19 AM
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I too suffer from the same thing. I feel it has to do with the fan clutch going out or weak. No air flow thru the condiser, no cold air. You may have some buddys that have late model dodge trucks that are notorious for their failed condinser fan that say the same thing.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 10:26 AM
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I didn't think of the clutch because it made no noise so I thought it was working. It was turning so I over looked it. It's electrical so it shouldn't matter. But maybe if it was weak it is just barely getting spun at higher RPMs. Any clarification on that?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 10:37 AM
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The gap on the A/C clutch could be too large because of surface wear.

Was the engine running with a/c on high when gauge pegged high. If so then I would say the compressor wasn't turning/pumping like it should.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 11:22 AM
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My 6.0 is fan clutch not electric. However, I don't know much about the diesels. I keep the hood down except to change the oil
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 11:48 AM
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The compressor clutch is something to look at and make sure it is engaging. Also do you have a bypass valve in your heater core lines? These trucks are notorious for the hot water in the heater core causing the air to not be as cold as it should. Once I installed the bypass valve in the water lines, it made a HUGE difference.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 12:10 PM
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Chipworkz is exactly right- that's why Excursions (and almost every other vehicle I've seen) come with a bypass valve. Check it out- http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...373l.aspx:-X22
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 12:40 PM
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A lot of people have had good luck with the dieselsite version, I have not. We shot emails back and forth for a while and they suggested that I either have a vacuum leak or the vacuum pump is very weak.

The problem is that the valve does not move but a 1/4" or so when I select max A/C via the ****. My vents all work properly, ESOF works properly and the vacuum pump does not run any more than others during a cold start situation.

I went with dieselsite because I have had great service from them in regards to parts in the past. I still plan to purchase from dieselsite in the future, but would not recommend their version of the bypass valve.

If I were you, I would look into the Ford version of the bypass valve.

Just my .02...
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 04:22 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by holeshotwalt
Chipworkz is exactly right- that's why Excursions (and almost every other vehicle I've seen) come with a bypass valve. Check it out- http://www.dieselsite.com/maxacassis...373l.aspx:-X22
I clicked the link and got nothing.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 04:26 PM
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Oops! try this-
http://www.dieselsite.com/colderacvent.aspx
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottInTexas
When I hooked it up to the system (low pressure side - which is the only place it fits) the needle jumped into the red zone. I don't have proper gauges.
Was it running, with the A/C on?

I don't want a shop. I can't afford the $6000 for a whole new system.
I don't know if you're serious about $6k, but if someone quoted you that, they're either trying to get rich on one job, or just didn't want to do it at all. All the parts, including refrigerant and oil, can be had for about 1/10 of that. New compressor, evap coil, condenser, orifice tube, accumulator, lines and all.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2015 | 07:02 PM
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Try the gap on the clutch for the ac. Mine was doing this and when I took out the spacer, I only had one washer, it's worked great ever since. Check the gap when done and engaged to make sure you have .025 thousands. Then do the water line by pass and it will be better then new. That's if you have a full charge.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2015 | 07:57 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Bonanza35
Try the gap on the clutch for the ac. Mine was doing this and when I took out the spacer, I only had one washer, it's worked great ever since. Check the gap when done and engaged to make sure you have .025 thousands. Then do the water line by pass and it will be better then new. That's if you have a full charge.
Is there a "how to" on this?
 
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Old Nov 12, 2015 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by TeachNlive4ever
Is there a "how to" on this?

 
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Old Nov 12, 2015 | 09:05 AM
  #15  
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Your a god, thanks.
 
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