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It may not be the right forum, but I didn't see an AC forum and the problem is with my F-350.
The AC is cold while running down the road (maybe not cold enough) but at idle it isn't cold at all, in fact it may even be somewhat hot. I got a can of juice for it with a gauge. When I hooked it up to the system (low pressure side - which is the only place it fits) the needle jumped into the red zone. I don't have proper gauges.
How about some brain storming to give me an idea of what to do next to fix it. I don't want a shop. I can't afford the $6000 for a whole new system.
I too suffer from the same thing. I feel it has to do with the fan clutch going out or weak. No air flow thru the condiser, no cold air. You may have some buddys that have late model dodge trucks that are notorious for their failed condinser fan that say the same thing.
I didn't think of the clutch because it made no noise so I thought it was working. It was turning so I over looked it. It's electrical so it shouldn't matter. But maybe if it was weak it is just barely getting spun at higher RPMs. Any clarification on that?
The compressor clutch is something to look at and make sure it is engaging. Also do you have a bypass valve in your heater core lines? These trucks are notorious for the hot water in the heater core causing the air to not be as cold as it should. Once I installed the bypass valve in the water lines, it made a HUGE difference.
A lot of people have had good luck with the dieselsite version, I have not. We shot emails back and forth for a while and they suggested that I either have a vacuum leak or the vacuum pump is very weak.
The problem is that the valve does not move but a 1/4" or so when I select max A/C via the ****. My vents all work properly, ESOF works properly and the vacuum pump does not run any more than others during a cold start situation.
I went with dieselsite because I have had great service from them in regards to parts in the past. I still plan to purchase from dieselsite in the future, but would not recommend their version of the bypass valve.
If I were you, I would look into the Ford version of the bypass valve.
When I hooked it up to the system (low pressure side - which is the only place it fits) the needle jumped into the red zone. I don't have proper gauges.
Was it running, with the A/C on?
I don't want a shop. I can't afford the $6000 for a whole new system.
I don't know if you're serious about $6k, but if someone quoted you that, they're either trying to get rich on one job, or just didn't want to do it at all. All the parts, including refrigerant and oil, can be had for about 1/10 of that. New compressor, evap coil, condenser, orifice tube, accumulator, lines and all.
Try the gap on the clutch for the ac. Mine was doing this and when I took out the spacer, I only had one washer, it's worked great ever since. Check the gap when done and engaged to make sure you have .025 thousands. Then do the water line by pass and it will be better then new. That's if you have a full charge.
Try the gap on the clutch for the ac. Mine was doing this and when I took out the spacer, I only had one washer, it's worked great ever since. Check the gap when done and engaged to make sure you have .025 thousands. Then do the water line by pass and it will be better then new. That's if you have a full charge.
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