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I'll get right into it, when I put the mud grips on my truck it always had a little vibration from 42-45 mph and it wasn't to bad. Recently from 30-65 I have a bad shuddering vibration that I get mainly in the steering wheel but I also feel it everywhere else and can see it on the mirrors. Well the front sway bar has a bushing that is broken. But also I notice recently at low speeds from my rear drivers side tire there is a noise that isn't right, maybe a bad bearing? I have a long list of stuff I gotta do on the truck and I just want to stop the Shake so I can get to everything else.
Sounds like a good rendition of K.C. and The Sunshine Band's "Shake your booty", lol!
I had a similar issue and it was tires that just wouldn't balance. They had been that way for some time, I didn't realize it either. They were getting to the point where they needed to be replaced and as soon as I got new tires, the shake was gone. The other half of it was the #2 injector, but the truck runs nice and smooth now.
Sounds like a good rendition of K.C. and The Sunshine Band's "Shake your booty", lol!
I had a similar issue and it was tires that just wouldn't balance. They had been that way for some time, I didn't realize it either. They were getting to the point where they needed to be replaced and as soon as I got new tires, the shake was gone. The other half of it was the #2 injector, but the truck runs nice and smooth now.
The tires are new and were balanced before and were ok this is a new vibration
When I'm at a light and staring going forward I hear kinda crunch and scrapping. Happens when I back up too. I thought it was my hub cap being loose so I took it off but still same problem.
Sounds like a bearing. They aren't too expensive. Only special tool needed is the Ford Spindle Nut Socket. It can be had at most Auto Parts stores, but is cheaper online and especially RockAuto. Also, need a new seal. There are several write-ups and videos on the work.
For conformation, jack up the truck and rotate the tire by hand. You'll hear the sound and be able to better understand your issue. Also, the "Death Wobble" is not normally caused by rear problems. You may have multiple issues. I think this is were I am at with a different vibration issue.
Don't rule out the disc/drum brake combination, do you maintain your slide pins? The front wheel shake can be rotor wear on the inside face, tire wear, alignment, tie rod ends, ball joints, bent rim(s), rusted mating surfaces between the stud plate and the wheel, improper tire pressure, and a partridge in a pear tree.
Puff your front tires up at least 65 PSI and see what that does for you. Do you see anything less than a perfectly round tire, like cupping, heal-toe damage, or uneven wear? Does a car alignment shop do your front end, or does a truck alignment shop do it? It makes a difference.
Among a host of other expensive causes of rolling vibration, all my brakes had seized slide-pin issues - and I did something about it. Ignore the slotted rotors below, I'm going back to Ford OEM rotors.
Sounds like a bearing. They aren't too expensive. Only special tool needed is the Ford Spindle Nut Socket. It can be had at most Auto Parts stores, but is cheaper online and especially RockAuto. Also, need a new seal. There are several write-ups and videos on the work.
For conformation, jack up the truck and rotate the tire by hand. You'll hear the sound and be able to better understand your issue. Also, the "Death Wobble" is not normally caused by rear problems. You may have multiple issues. I think this is were I am at with a different vibration issue.
If I am reading this right you are in the wrong year model with the special spindle tool. Theses bearings come as a assembly. I just put on two this past weekend. As far as the cost well they are not as cheap as you might think.
If I am reading this right you are in the wrong year model with the special spindle tool. Theses bearings come as a assembly. I just put on two this past weekend. As far as the cost well they are not as cheap as you might think.
I believe you are confusing the front with the rear. Fronts have a complete assembly. Rears are two tapered bearings that fit onto the spindle. The races are pressed in the hub, the spindle nut socket is used in removing and installing the spindle nut which threads onto the axle spindle and is set at a given torque and backed off a given number of "clicks". This nut holds the hub and bearings against the shoulders on the spindle. The axle is of the floating type and bolts to the outside of the hub via 8 18mm bolts torqued at around 80-85 ft-lbs with blue locktite.
The front hub assembly is held in place in the steering knuckle by 4 dual threaded end studs. The stub axle sits in the knuckle via an expensive seal pressed on to the raised portion of the stub axle. Is this what your where referring to?
Check the tires are round. Dad always said, "You can balance a Coke-a-Cola crate son, better make sure they are round." Jack the truck up and hold a stationary object just clearing the tread and spin the tires. The gap between the object and the tread should stay the same as the tire rotates. If they are not round, they only get worse with age/wear.
