When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a mess of a wiring issues and I will soon replace it all with a new harness. In the mean time I have been just replacing the obvious damaged wires one by one. I was making progress and got the back lights working again... Until I tried to replace the fuses because they were pretty rusted and now both the front and rear running lights will not turn on. I assumed that the fuses I put in were not the correct size so I tried placing the old ones back in. Problem is not sure which one came from which slot. Also the metal on the end of the fuses was flaking off. I tried several times moving them around with no luck. So the question is does anyone know the correct fuses for the correct slots? There is 4 slots but only the right 3 being used. Thanks for any help!
Thats an after market fuse block. Stock harness only had fuses on the light switch. The light switch was sorta the power distribution center, I think 57 through 59 only came with two fuses and one circuit breaker. Circuit breaker was separate and on the fire wall.
'57 and early '58s had the light switch with one fuse. When PO added that fuse block, he may not have bypassed the fuse on the switch (making some circuit(s) double fused). When changing wires, you may have blown the fuse on the back of the switch. Check that one. As for which fuse goes where, that's anyone's guess on added circuits.
Yes,
that wiring looks to be in quite a state. Better to get the whole thing changed out sooner than later. I always use & recommend the "Centech" brand universal wiring harness system I have done quite a few jobs on clients vehicles with this system and have always had good luck with no problems. Also has a good price point for what you get and is well labeled and instructions are very clear.
Canadian production 57-59's had a bimetal circuit breaker mounted up around the same area as your pic as protection for the headlight circuit. dunno if the U.S. production units did.
When rewiring anything I always make sure to solder all joints, as well as a spot of solder on all crimp connectors. and always use shrink tube not electrical tape. Also use a spot of dielectric grease on connections and in sockets. This may sound like overkill but will ensure reliable function for years to come. Oh ya... and make sure and loom all wires for added protection from chafing.
Thank you everyone. Think I need to take economan, actually it sounds like i need to just have him do it!
Ok, so got the fuses back in place and replaced the line between the stop switch and the light switch (for brake lights) that was totally fried. All seemed to be good until I tried the brakes and that same wire totally burnt from one end to another. So it is beyond me, either there is a short or overloaded circuit or who knows.
yep!
sounds like a dead short to ground, and it also sounds like someone has bypassed a fuse for the wire to have burned up like that.
Iffin' you are really stuck I have some Ford wiring diagrams here out of an old Glenn's repair manual. I have never had any luck scanning them on my machine here, but I can always drop one in the post to ya if you need and are not in too much of a hurry just lemmee know your mailing address. either on here or email me private:
At the risk of sounding like a broken record, get a test light and learn how to use it. You can't fix even simple electrical issues by guessing and throwing parts at it.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.