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Coolant pressure/leaking from water pump

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Old 11-05-2015, 05:30 PM
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Coolant pressure/leaking from water pump

So this is my first post but here goes. I have a 03 f250 6.0 4x4 with 281,000 miles on it I bought it about 2-3 years ago when I was 19 and have since replaced hpop, icp, EGR delete, 4 injectors, ficm, ipr valve, nipple cups, injector o rings, oil cooler etc . The truck is not studded and has a sct livewire ts. She also has a coolant filter on her. So basically the problem now is the water pump is leaking coolant and causing my truck to overheat and go into a 'limp' mode and it builds up a lot of pressure in the cooling system to the point where it's hard to turn the cap. So what i'm wondering is would the water pump cause the pressure build up? Or is it the head gaskets...... I am very hard on her from racing, mudding, towing etc. Well thank you in advance for any advice
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by STROKN_n_SMOKN
So this is my first post but here goes. I have a 03 f250 6.0 4x4 with 281,000 miles on it I bought it about 2-3 years ago when I was 19 and have since replaced hpop, icp, EGR delete, 4 injectors, ficm, ipr valve, nipple cups, injector o rings, oil cooler etc . The truck is not studded and has a sct livewire ts. She also has a coolant filter on her. So basically the problem now is the water pump is leaking coolant and causing my truck to overheat and go into a 'limp' mode and it builds up a lot of pressure in the cooling system to the point where it's hard to turn the cap. So what i'm wondering is would the water pump cause the pressure build up? Or is it the head gaskets...... I am very hard on her from racing, mudding, towing etc. Well thank you in advance for any advice
I would stop driving it! You get it too hot you will melt your oil filter stand pipe, game over at that point...

Do you have coolant puking?
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 07:30 PM
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They way to go is pretty straight forward. Replace the water pump, service up the cooling system and watch closely to see if the level drops. If it has a stealth delete pull the EGR valve and look for coolant in the intake. If it's not leaking externally, the headgaskets have let go and it's time to roll your sleeves up and get busy. don't skip a trip to the machine shop for magnaflux and a skilled check for straightness. Studs would be a good idea when you go back together and I'd stick with the Ford headgaskets. Some are taking a shot on the Fel-Pro's lately, they are considerably less expensive but not proven yet in my mind.
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 08:46 PM
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Well it has a plate where the EGR valve went, and it's only under heavy load it leaks. I can drive it 5 miles hard and water will come out or I can drive it 1.5 hours steady on the interstate and barely lose any... It started with the radiator, it would only leak under heavy load so I replaced it, then a week later this old coolant hose blew, then the next couple days after the water pump starts leaking under heavy load and when the trucks off. I replaced the thermostat/housing, new radiator, full coolant flush both plugs then new oil cooler etc.
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 09:11 PM
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And no Shaneb75 because it leaks out of the water pump, there was once or twice I heard pressure bleeding through the degas cap as soon as I turned the truck off but usually nothing bleeds out until I unscrew the cap and let it slowly bleed off
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by STROKN_n_SMOKN
And no Shaneb75 because it leaks out of the water pump, there was once or twice I heard pressure bleeding through the degas cap as soon as I turned the truck off but usually nothing bleeds out until I unscrew the cap and let it slowly bleed off
I would say regardless it would be in your best interest to to spring for studs since you play hard.
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 09:26 PM
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Yea I guess i'm gonna tackle this thing myself do you or know anyone who has experience with doing studs? I'm just gonna pull the motor, I got a couple of other buddies who are pulling there motors but there gas so were just gonna make a big project out of it haha. But any advice would be nice
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 09:40 PM
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In about an hour and a half you can have front end of your truck apart and have it ready to pull. I have some pics in my profile. But there are folks on here with far more experience than me. I had a blast helping with my brothers truck!
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:00 PM
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Hell yea, I just signed up today and have the free account so idk if I can see them or not but yea any info would be much appreciated, have you ever changed the main wire harness?
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:18 PM
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I want to say my brother did before we did the rebuild to address an intermittent no start. It ended up being one of the main plugs on the drivers inner fender. If you are pulling the engine it won't be a big deal to swap, just take note/pics of how it routes around everything.

I think you should see the albums and pics. If not let me know, I will post some up...
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:26 PM
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Oh yea I see them. When you changed your fuel pump did it get real hard to start when the fuel was low and it was still warm? Nice trucks btw
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by STROKN_n_SMOKN
Oh yea I see them. When you changed your fuel pump did it get real hard to start when the fuel was low and it was still warm? Nice trucks btw
IIRC, he just pulled it to clean it. There no drivability issues. Now if you get a water in fuel light that won't clear you can bet there is crap packed around that sensor. You will want to pull it apart to clean it.

BTW, we don't believe that you actually own a 6.0 until you post pics... Muddy pics will work!
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:53 PM
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Old 11-05-2015, 10:59 PM
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MASSIVE BURNOUT
 
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Old 11-05-2015, 11:05 PM
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Snap, you weren't kidding!
 


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