bleeder screw stripped
#2
i did this over the summer, if you cant get it out with the best effort of vise grip/ channel locks etc, i think the best option is to take the backing plate off. it just skips the hours of heating up the nipple and fuc*ing with it with no success.
the process of getting the backing place off involves removing tire, drum, axle shaft and spindle nut? idk what the name is but the tool is a 4 prong looking thing IIRC then the hub comes off then the backing plate. once the backing plate it off you have a lot more leverage to get the nipple out with vice grips.
*this is all off of a drunken remembrance*
the process of getting the backing place off involves removing tire, drum, axle shaft and spindle nut? idk what the name is but the tool is a 4 prong looking thing IIRC then the hub comes off then the backing plate. once the backing plate it off you have a lot more leverage to get the nipple out with vice grips.
*this is all off of a drunken remembrance*
#3
Threads _strip_; heads _ROUND_. If it's ROUNDED, try one of the various extractor sockets out there (Irwin Bolt-Grip, Craftsman Bolt-Out, etc.; even Harbor Freight has several sets). If none of those work, and you have shop air, look up a product called "Brake-Free"; it was developed specifically for rounded and stubborn bleeder screws.
Beyond that, what would be a LOT less work than pulling the backing plate, and would be a more "renewing" solution, would be simply to replace the wheel cylinder.
Beyond that, what would be a LOT less work than pulling the backing plate, and would be a more "renewing" solution, would be simply to replace the wheel cylinder.
#5
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#6
Thats why I heat the bleeder
#7
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#8
The bleeder is steel , the cylinder it cast iron (heat sink )I don't "try " to heat only the bleeder , I heat "only" the bleeder . (its takes a few seconds ) then quench it .Even if the Cylinder is empty , it wont hurt the seals . Is it just me or do you step all over expert advice everywhere ?
#10
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