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Hey Jeff, got another equipment question for you. The museum here in town is working on their 8N. The guy spinning the wrenches (thankfully not me) is trying to replace one of the headlights (housing all smashed up). He seems to think the "hood" has to come off to get to the nut that holds it on. Does that sound right, and any tricks to that? Looked like 4 bolts by the steering wheel, one on each side of the radiator at the bottom and the gas line all need to be disconnected. Or did I miss something?
Originally Posted by cookie88
Put another new hub bearing on the big blue girl too.
When you say another hub bearing...I get the impression that you've put more than two? So many wise cracks...so little time. I will ask, how many have you put on yours since you've owned the truck?
Hey Jeff, got another equipment question for you. The museum here in town is working on their 8N. The guy spinning the wrenches (thankfully not me) is trying to replace one of the headlights (housing all smashed up). He seems to think the "hood" has to come off to get to the nut that holds it on. Does that sound right, and any tricks to that? Looked like 4 bolts by the steering wheel, one on each side of the radiator at the bottom and the gas line all need to be disconnected.
Dave would be the guy to ask about that. I'm pretty sure he could assemble an 8N from scratch. Give him a call.
Originally Posted by zhilton
Or did I miss something?When you say another hub bearing...I get the impression that you've put more than two? So many wise cracks...so little time. I will ask, how many have you put on yours since you've owned the truck?
None when I was running stock and close to tires. Since I've been running 12.5" wide, I'd say probably about every 18 months I change one. Total........ I think this was the 5th one.
Zack, I have no idea how to get the headlights off of an 8n, never had the opportunity to work on one.
Couldn't help me with a Ford backhoe, now no help on a Ford tractor. Just what kind of Ford mechanic are you?
Originally Posted by cookie88
Dave would be the guy to ask about that. I'm pretty sure he could assemble an 8N from scratch. Give him a call.
I'll shoot him a PM, not sure when he's a wake and when he's singing "the wheels on the truck go round and round" as he's working through a case of white line fever.
Originally Posted by cookie88
None when I was running stock and close to tires. Since I've been running 12.5" wide, I'd say probably about every 18 months I change one. Total........ I think this was the 5th one.
Yet another reason a stock truck ain't that bad of an idea...lower routine maintenance. Or at least for me. Speaking of turning wrenches....I'm looking at servicing the 10.5 Sterling under the Pavement Princess. Last time through was all Ford/Motorcraft; but I'm thinking that Mobile 75-140W full synthetic is what I want to go with. It's the correct weight spec and the Ford oil is already full synthetic. But the Mobile (unlike Ford/Motorcraft) is supposed to have the friction modifier already in the oil; which I need since I've got a limited slip back there. Anyone used that oil/formula? There's a couple of guys in the SuperDuty forum that swear by it....but some of those guys are twisted a little different.
The original style headlights have a stud and nut that you should be able to get to without removing the hood ,but old age, crud and
rust may make it a tough job. You are correct on the hood removal except , take the radiator cap off ,when you remove the 2 lower bolts carefully remove the grill especially if it's original $$$ the air filter inlet some have a jar some just have a grill in the side of the hood need to be removed it slides into the body of the air filter and you will not be able to maneuver the hood off . Check for wires running along the inside edges of the hood.Take the glass bowl and the wire holder off the fuel bowl some of them are big enough to get in the way.
Originally Posted by zhilton
Couldn't help me with a Ford backhoe, now no help on a Ford tractor. Just what kind of Ford mechanic are you? I'll shoot him a PM, not sure when he's a wake and when he's singing "the wheels on the truck go round and round" as he's working through a case of white line fever.Yet another reason a stock truck ain't that bad of an idea...lower routine maintenance. Or at least for me. Speaking of turning wrenches....I'm looking at servicing the 10.5 Sterling under the Pavement Princess. Last time through was all Ford/Motorcraft; but I'm thinking that Mobile 75-140W full synthetic is what I want to go with. It's the correct weight spec and the Ford oil is already full synthetic. But the Mobile (unlike Ford/Motorcraft) is supposed to have the friction modifier already in the oil; which I need since I've got a limited slip back there. Anyone used that oil/formula? There's a couple of guys in the SuperDuty forum that swear by it....but some of those guys are twisted a little different.
Speaking of turning wrenches....I'm looking at servicing the 10.5 Sterling under the Pavement Princess. Last time through was all Ford/Motorcraft; but I'm thinking that Mobile 75-140W full synthetic is what I want to go with. It's the correct weight spec and the Ford oil is already full synthetic. But the Mobile (unlike Ford/Motorcraft) is supposed to have the friction modifier already in the oil; which I need since I've got a limited slip back there. Anyone used that oil/formula? There's a couple of guys in the SuperDuty forum that swear by it....but some of those guys are twisted a little different.
I use O'Reilly's store brand. Master Pro I think. It's a full synthetic 75W-140 and has friction modifier. It is literally half the price of the Mobile1. Never had any issues with it.
The original style headlights have a stud and nut that you should be able to get to without removing the hood ,but old age, crud and rust may make it a tough job. You are correct on the hood removal...
Excellent, I'll pass the intel along to the guy that's working on it.
Originally Posted by cookie88
I use O'Reilly's store brand. Master Pro I think. It's a full synthetic 75W-140 and has friction modifier. It is literally half the price of the Mobile1. Never had any issues with it.
I'll look into it, though generally I've avoided house brand/aftermarket oil...just seems like it wasn't up the the same standards; but I'll check the labels. I wonder if that O'Reilly's oil is a relabeled Mobil? I know Caterpillar packaged oil was actually Mobil oil. Or at least 10+ years ago when I was working for Riggs; only reason I know this..the bill of ladings all had a refinery in Houston with Mobil's name all over the paperwork.
Twice this month I've gotten over 20mpg out of the Pavement Princess; and it looks like I should hit it again several more times. I'm loving this colder weather.
Twice this month I've gotten over 20mpg out of the Pavement Princess; and it looks like I should hit it again several more times. I'm loving this colder weather.
Thats pretty cool. My rig hates winter blend fuel.
Thats pretty cool. My rig hates winter blend fuel.
I've found the trick for this one...70mph and no a/c. Winter fuel doesn't seem to effect it much...but then mine spends allot of time at 70mph in the right lane.
While I'm thinking about it, no hard feelings Scott when my Southside Rebels come to town tonight and beat up on those Panthers. If you want to blame anyone...you can pick on SHS #67...third string bench warmer (his words, not mine). When your "old man" drives a 6.0L...I guess your mental state is warped from the get go.
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