Hot Rotors!
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New User
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Oregon
Hot Rotors!
Help!
I recently installed new (yes, new...) rotors on my 74 F250, 2WD. I cleaned and re-packed bearings, new seals, and new rotors and new pads...getting ready for vacation.
Problem....I can smell the pads burning, and the rotors get real hot. I have only drove 50 mi trying to break them in. They still heat up and the rotor is starting to discolor.
Funny thing is, they work great! No troubles except for the smell/coloration.
Is this normal for breaking in new rotors/pads? Or am I in trouble?
I recently installed new (yes, new...) rotors on my 74 F250, 2WD. I cleaned and re-packed bearings, new seals, and new rotors and new pads...getting ready for vacation.
Problem....I can smell the pads burning, and the rotors get real hot. I have only drove 50 mi trying to break them in. They still heat up and the rotor is starting to discolor.
Funny thing is, they work great! No troubles except for the smell/coloration.
Is this normal for breaking in new rotors/pads? Or am I in trouble?
Last edited by patr; Aug 5, 2003 at 01:36 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Greater Cleveland Ohio
Hot Rotors!
Does not sound normal or good. I replaced mine with new ones and had nothing like what you report. I would pull off the wheels and see if everything is seated properly. Sometimes the rear pad can get hung up or the caliper may not seat right because you have to hold the rear pad on the spindle side while you hold the front pad on the caliper and seat the assembly. I replaced the whole package including the calipers...they were only $24 for the pair (after core), so for the time investment alone it was worth it. Check your caliper/rear pad alignment. Then check to see if you can rotate the rotors by hand with the wheels off. You might have a bad caliper.
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Oregon
Hot Rotors!
Thanks Fellas!
I tried to rotate the whells, and they seem to be ok.
I don't know for sure how my sliding system is supposed to work. I have a shop manual that describes three different brake systems for 73-79 fords. There is a 2-piston, 1-piston, and a 2-piston with (new/improved) cast assembly.
What I have is the oldest style 2-piston with a bracket with 2 bracket "ears" that the caliper hangs on. The bracket is attached to the spindle and has a shield.
I don't know if any of this info makes a difference, but I thought I would give it for proper diagnosis.
I have done this level of brake job before on cars, but I never had this kind of trouble. I usually could break them in with just a 2-10 mi.
I tried to rotate the whells, and they seem to be ok.
I don't know for sure how my sliding system is supposed to work. I have a shop manual that describes three different brake systems for 73-79 fords. There is a 2-piston, 1-piston, and a 2-piston with (new/improved) cast assembly.
What I have is the oldest style 2-piston with a bracket with 2 bracket "ears" that the caliper hangs on. The bracket is attached to the spindle and has a shield.
I don't know if any of this info makes a difference, but I thought I would give it for proper diagnosis.
I have done this level of brake job before on cars, but I never had this kind of trouble. I usually could break them in with just a 2-10 mi.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,613
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From: Gainesville, FL
Hot Rotors!
Pat,
You are describing a dragging caliper.
After driving the vehicle a very short distance (around the block) stop the vehicle and jack up one of the front tires. Will the tire spin freely. If not, the caliper is dragging. Simply replace it and the flex line. The flex line is about an extra $20. You can check your flex line by removing it and simply blowing through it. You should be able to blow through it easily.
Consider it,
KingFisher
You are describing a dragging caliper.
After driving the vehicle a very short distance (around the block) stop the vehicle and jack up one of the front tires. Will the tire spin freely. If not, the caliper is dragging. Simply replace it and the flex line. The flex line is about an extra $20. You can check your flex line by removing it and simply blowing through it. You should be able to blow through it easily.
Consider it,
KingFisher
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Oregon
Hot Rotors!
All:
Thanks for the great advice. I tried most of what you guys said. I took the stuff back apart and checked for fit, spinning rotors. etc.
In desperation I took off the master resevoir cap to see if the brake fluid was dirty or burnt. It was neither.
However, magically the brakes no longer dragged! I had this off before when I was compressing the pistons, butsomehow it was now different.
I am not a great mechanic, so I am happy for this "lucky brake"...
Thanks again for the help.
Thanks for the great advice. I tried most of what you guys said. I took the stuff back apart and checked for fit, spinning rotors. etc.
In desperation I took off the master resevoir cap to see if the brake fluid was dirty or burnt. It was neither.
However, magically the brakes no longer dragged! I had this off before when I was compressing the pistons, butsomehow it was now different.
I am not a great mechanic, so I am happy for this "lucky brake"...
Thanks again for the help.
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