I own a 2000 Ranger, 2WD, Auto, 2.5L 4 cyl with 42000 miles. I have noticed a sound and a slight vibration at certain speeds (mph). At first, I thought the sound was an exhaust leak (checked system-no apparent leaks). Now I am also getting a slight vibration which accompanies the sound. The wheels appear to have their balance weights in place. There is no "clunking" noise when shifting into reverse. Could this be a driveshaft out of balance, a universal joint beginning to wear, wheels out of balance due to wear (original tires) or something else?

 

Welcome to FTE. You might put the rear axle on jackstands and "drive" it to see if you still notice it. I might start by getting the tires balanced.

 

Thanks Mike,
I'll get the tires balanced first, if the vibration is still there, I'll try jacking the rear axle.

 

Hi, I'm getting some vibration from the rear axle at 65 mph plus. Also, if I grab the rear passenger wheel and shake it back and forth, I can hear a real "creaking" noise (like rusty springs). If I do the same thing to the opposite wheel, nothing. I'm thinking the two must be related.

Any ideas about what I should check out?
Thanks!
2000 Ranger 3.0 FFV
91k miles
2WD, Auto

 

I got drive train vibration twice in 200K miles on my 1988 Ranger 2.9L V6 with manual 4x4 and 5 speed stick.

It was very speed-related both times (around 57-62 MPH).

First time around 90K miles, second time around 180K miles.

Both times I thought it was tires, and both times it was U joints.

 

Thanks MSRanger. I don't have a garage, so if it's U joints then I guess I'm looking at the mechanic. Is there a definite way to tell if it's U joints? I'd rather make sure myself (if possible) than just having the mechanic agree with me and hand me a huge bill!

Thanks.

 

Changing the U Joints (4WD) at the shop was about $90. Keep in mind this was in the 90's. Since you have 90K miles, they are getting ready for changing anyway, but since you have 2WD, maybe they should last longer?

I believe that changing these U joints requires a hydraulic press or a C clamp-style pressing tool. If you can rent one of these tools, you should be OK, it's not rocket science.

Also, if your driveshaft is two sections, you need to keep the two sections rotated the same way (don't reassemble them 90 degrees or 180 degrees out). Mark them with a piece of chalk or similar before disassembly.

Some of the other posters on this board may have other tips or tricks. It's been about 25-30 years since I did a U joint myself.

As far as deciding if its the U joints, start out engine off, in neutral, emergency brake on, wheels chocked, and feel for free play in the U joints, axial and rotational. You shouldn't feel any, and if you feel any, it's too much, from a vibration viewpoint.

You could also rotate the rear tires to the front first. and see if the vibe follows, or high-speed spin-balance the tires (and rotate) first if it's been a while since that was done.

 

Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it.