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I got fed up with not knowing how much fuel I had, so I started doing some research. OEM senders are way too expensive and do not seem to last. I found the ISSPRO brand on line and they seemed to be my answer right away. The only problem was they don't stock a unit specifically for our trucks, but they will build what ever you need. All you need to know is the depth of your tank and the resistance curve. I'll save you some research and tell you now that all ford truck fuel level senders from 1987 at least through our 2003 models use a 15 to 158 ohm resistance curve for a rectangular tank. 15 ohms empty and 158 ohms full. My tank happened to be 15 inches deep. Call Don at ISSPRO and he'll fix you right up! I also used the time to install a tank sump that I built on my lathe and everything came right together. Here are some pictures of the process. Most of them are self explanatory I think, but if anyone has questions, I'll be glad to help if I can.
You most likely need an RA-9515 15/158 Low profile sender. Fuel Level Senders - ISSPRO Inc.
Contact Don at ISSPRO (888) 447-7776
Measure tank depth.
Sump anchor. 2 o-clock slot is for the new sender.
Fuel tank sump I turned on my lathe.
Top view.
Fuel sump mounted. It looks crooked, but it isn't.... Really!
Before Mods.
Modify the tank cap to accept the new sender.
Modify the tank cap to accept the new sender. Nearly all of the OEM stuff removed and a couple old holes TIG welded closed and ground back smooth.
1.5 inch hole-saw and a standard SAE 5 hole pattern to mount the new sender in.
Connected for pre-install testing.
Sender mounted to the tank cap and ready for Hutch Mod and install.
New sender mounted to the tank cap. Top view.
New sender mounted to the tank cap. Bottom view.
Turned out to be a nice clean looking install if I do say so! Works like a champ!
Awesome. Simple. Elegant. Priced right. Potentially more difficult, though, for those of us who cannot weld, but I like this a lot.
Can you fill in the gaps on your sump installation, though. I have questions about how you managed your sump anchor, how you sealed the bottom of the tank where the hole is, why you needed a slot for the new sender, etc.
Thanks for the kind comments.....
First the easy question. The slot for the new sender was necessary mostly because I screwed up. While waiting for the new sender, I decided I needed to install this cool sump I had made. The best "and only" spot it would really go was where I put it. Right below the opening in the top of the tank. There was even a three inch indention there just right for a sump. So in my excitement, I installed it. Not even thinking about the new sender having to go all the way to the bottom of the tank, and that was also the best and only place for the sender........THE SLOT WAS BORN.
The sump is in two parts. The bottom "bowl" and the top "anchor". They bolt together with a single bolt and the tank sandwiched between, along with an o-ring to make the seal. This particular style can not be installed without either removing the truck bed or dropping the tank. I had to do that anyway to install the new sender. Oh, the sender was about $25 more than the stocked senders. It had to be special ordered. If there was enough interest, the price would probably come down.
How did you reinstall your tank? I'm at the point of reinstalling mine (had to remove for brake line issues); I did the Hutch & Harpoon mods. Lowering the tank with both fill hoses on was easy, but getting new hoses over the frame appears to be the hard part. Weather has put a hold on things (its outside). Did you remove the drive shaft? Thanks for your input ahead of time...and nice MODS!
How did you reinstall your tank? I'm at the point of reinstalling mine (had to remove for brake line issues); I did the Hutch & Harpoon mods. Lowering the tank with both fill hoses on was easy, but getting new hoses over the frame appears to be the hard part. Weather has put a hold on things (its outside). Did you remove the drive shaft? Thanks for your input ahead of time...and nice MODS!
I didn't remove my tank. I pulled the bed off and did everything from the top. This was much easier for me because I have the luxury of a chain hoist. Only took ten minutes to remove the bed. I have dropped my tank a couple times and it is a pain ITA!
I have no idea, but it's not lite. Esp. with duelly fenders and Line-X. A regular bed you may be able to remove with four or six strong backs.
Don't forget to remove the three screws holding your filler neck and then two connectors for brake and signal lights.
Also all the bed bolts almost never come out without a fight. Use a 4.5 inch grinder or a large drill to cut the bolt heads off. Then a cutting wheel or hack-saw to cut the bolts off flush with the frame rails. Then the capture nuts can be easily removed by bending them up from the top. New bed bolts are expensive, but the best deal I have found is at LMC Truck. $70 for a complete set of eight. I found a set of eight OEM on ebay for $98
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I have dropped my tank a couple times and it is a pain ITA!
