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Aid, you jacked up the vehicle by four inches, you had a vibration (driveshaft?) followed by the destruction of one of the toughest rear ends know to man. That suggests to me that the pinion angle was wrong and that the driveshaft was skipping rope.
Not to insult you but you know that the angle of the gozoutta on the transmission and the angle of the gozinta on the pinion should be equal. Like the parallel lines on top and bottom of a flattened "Z".
Aid, you jacked up the vehicle by four inches, you had a vibration (driveshaft?) followed by the destruction of one of the toughest rear ends know to man. That suggests to me that the pinion angle was wrong and that the driveshaft was skipping rope.
Not to insult you but you know that the angle of the gozoutta on the transmission and the angle of the gozinta on the pinion should be equal. Like the parallel lines on top and bottom of a flattened "Z".
Yep this is my guess too. I lifted the truck about 2 years ago. It was my first big project working on cars. Since then I have worked on a lot of different projects and learned a lot.
I need to lower the pinion carrier bearing and maybe shim the axle.
Also to clarify. The truck drove fine for a year and 11 months. The vibrations just started. I drove it a few time and parked it. Just got it in the garage and looked at it.
The vibrations might have caused the crack to progress until failure.
I think you are on the problem. Don't guess or throw shims without careful measurement. You may need help.
I will take measurements before it goes out on the road again.
I need to figure out what the max angle the first half of the driveshaft can take so I can lower the carrier. Then when I lower the carrier I'm hoping the pinion lines up and I don't have to shim it. I'll find out when I drop the carrier..
I finally have a real garage that I can work on the truck in, instead of the gravel next to my old house.
This will tell you what you need to know. Get an angle-measuring protractor; don't guess. And while the drive shaft is down, remember that you have hammered the bejesus out of the U-joints. Replace them, cheap insurance.
This will tell you what you need to know. Get an angle-measuring protractor; don't guess. And while the drive shaft is down, remember that you have hammered the bejesus out of the U-joints. Replace them, cheap insurance.
Come back in if you get in trouble.
All 5 replacement u joints were ordered when I saw how bad it was.
Busted Ford 9" on a common vehicle? Hmm. I remember T-Bolts breaking cases in the mid-sixties but Ford fixed that with ribbing. Hio? Ultra?
Tell us OP, how did you do it?
I don't know about OP John, but I can tell you I did the same thing to the 9" in my brand new 79 Bronco back in the day. I guess you can say I was young and stupid. My girlfriend at the time was chewing on me pretty good one morning over something out of my control. So in a fit of rage I reved up that 351M tighter than a drum and dumped the clutch with it in granny gear. Broke the driveshaft, yoke, and split the case like this OP. The front drive axle pulled me in to work that morning. Lucky for me the Service manager at the Ford dealer I worked at on the back parts counter Loved me as being one of his Parts Men. He coned Ford in to paying the tab on my Bronco.
Yeah, Jeff, I guess there is no limit to what a kid can do to equipment. Here is one of my stories:
Craftsman used to replace any broken tool. I broke plenty. One day about sixty years ago I went in with an 18" breaker bar. It had a bend and the swivel was busted off. The clerk said he would give me a new one if I told him how I did it. So I told him. We were taking the pinion nut off a rear end, wouldn't move so we put a four-foot cheater around it and jacked the car down.
Lots of laughs a parts counters, huh?
I believe I am measuring it correctly. I posted a video of how I'm doing it.
I'll watch some videos.
If you have a Ford truck shop manual for a '72, it will show you how to setup the 3rd member and it will give you the tolerances and torque specs for it.
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