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1957 - 1960 F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Box Style Ford Trucks

223 rebuild

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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:30 AM
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Question 223 rebuild

I searched and found some old threads but didn't see what I was looking for.

I am finally going to start the rebuild of my grandpa's '57 F100. I started in Highschool but then joined the Army and I've finally settled down and I'm ready to begin. Here's the rub... It's really rough. Will need all new brakes, brake lines, master cylinder etc, new wiring harness, fuel line is clogged somewhere, radiator is shot, and the engine may be froze. I can't turn it by hand but the belt isn't exactly new and i'm using the fan to try to turn the crank. Those are just the big problems there are plenty more. My big question is whether or not its worth my effort to rebuild it? It would need to be a frame up practically and I'm not a mechanic at all. I'm mechanically capable and I have an aptitude but not too much knowledge. I have a parts truck that is missing the engine and tranny but has alot of minor parts. There is a 57 or 58 for sale locally (it looks like a 57 but has 4 headlights so it may be a 58) they are asking $1700 but I haven't talked to them yet and I don't know if if runs but they have moved it a couple of times. Assuming that $1700 price tag on a not too popular year would mean that it did run, would it be wiser to buy that one and start on it than to try to bring mine back from the dead?

Also, If you are interested in the parts truck or any pieces off of it let me know. It's located in Kansas. You can email me directly at samkeele1@gmail.com

Thanks for taking the time to read this.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 05:53 PM
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Welcome to FTE

It's a question that only you can answer. An old truck restoration is sort of a labor of love. It usually makes no sense from a strictly dollars and sense (cents?) standpoint. Hm.

Anyway just about any truck past a certain age will need extensive disassembly and/or inspection and repair, servicing and parts replacement. Your list isn't unusual at all. ANY truck will likely have those issues. For the most part the mechanicals are easy, or at least easier on the wallet than bodywork and paint. Clean, rust-free examples that haven't been buggered will usually get top dollar, even if they don't run.

But if gramps truck really is a basket case, it may be too much of a hassle or expense. Be realistic about the budget and your capabilities. Lots of folks often seem to run out of steam after disassembly. So it sits there, with parts being lost and never gets completed.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 06:23 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I have already done the body work and refinished in high school. I only intend to make it run. It doesn't need any highway capability. Just puttering down dirt roads is all I want to do. I do love projects but I have more time than money and I don't have a lot of time either. But I would rebuild the engine but the rest is where my challenge would be.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 08:41 PM
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In that case, keep the truck, even without regard to any sentimental value. Body work and paint is expensive. A stuck engine isn't really that big of a big deal. Patience is. Make sure the brakes or clutch isn't stuck, though. If it's the engine, take the plugs out, squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil* in each cylinder and wait. Several days. Squirt a little more in. Wait, etc. After a few weeks of this, put a socket on the damper bolt and see if the engine will turn over. Take your time, work the engine slowly over till it will make easy revolutions. The important thing is don't try to force it. If it's had years to rust up, it's not going to break free in a day or two. Many people have had engines run very well for years after doing this. Sometimes it won't work, but what have you got to lose?

Get a manual for your truck. If you find out the engine has good compression everything else is doable on a budget. You can have that thing purring like like a kitten, easy. If you're on a limited budget you will get it running good because it's not possible to throw parts at it.


* Or your other favorite penetrating concoction. But this will work.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:11 PM
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The body work isn't anything to brag about but its dent free and all the rust spots have had steel welded in place. And it has a proper paint job. Took me two years in shop class to finish. It had a lot of problems.
I think you are right and I really do want to crack that engine open and make it run again. I have already started the marvel mystery oil process yesterday. I didn't get to add any today and, in fact, didn't know I should keep adding. I will do that tomorrow.

Is there a good place in the forum to look for mods? Like I need a new radiator so I need to know what other radiators might fit. That sort of thing.

Thanks for being so helpful.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:29 PM
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Do you still have the radiator? They can often be rodded out, brazed and boiled and be good as new, for not too much money by a good radiator shop.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:44 PM
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It was stabbed several times with a screw driver while in the high school shop.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2015 | 10:49 PM
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Well ... That'll do it I guess. New brass, drop in units manufactured in U.S. of A. are available through the usual suspects. Overseas aluminium jobs are considerably less expensive and work OK but will need paint and are not repairable, basically.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 06:21 AM
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On the radiator, if there is a radiator shop nearby, take it there and at least get their opinion if it is repairable. If the tanks are good, maybe a recore will do.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 07:24 AM
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I'll look into the radiator repair thing. I live in rural Oklahoma so there isn't an abundance of places to go. But late last night I ordered a repair manual and I am encouraged from talking with you guys that I can do this.

The thing about this truck that is special is that it was a mail truck back in the day and it had a big box on the back. My Gramps had a normal bed put on it after he bought it. So the transmission and rear end are heavy duty and it's a torque monster along with a monster suspension. My dad tells a story about shoveling gravel in at the local quarry because he didn't want the bulldozer to overload it. He shoveled until the tires started to sag quite a bit and drove to the scales. He had put 2 tons of gravel in the bed and the rear end wasn't sagging enough to notice. If I put a thousand pounds in my 1/2 ton's bed it would smash my exhaust pipes.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 08:02 AM
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Donor truck I mentioned

I can't find a pic from the front end. Ignore the tires being off the rims. We towed it on flat tires to a more secluded spot to prevent thieves from pilfering.











 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 11:20 AM
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I missed the part about "donor truck" at first, and had some doubts about your painting skills. But, I kinda like that truck though.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2015 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Tedster9
I missed the part about "donor truck" at first, and had some doubts about your painting skills. But, I kinda like that truck though.
If you saw the other you'd still have your doubts. 15 years in a field isn't good on the paint. But in 2000 I didn't have a digital camera and any pics I had were from a disposable camera. I will keep photo records of the project.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 07:43 PM
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Engine

My father in law just called and told me he found a 289 "high performance" mustang engine. I don't know what he means by "high performance" but they want $500 for it and the car it's in. The car is a 90s model Lincoln towncar. That leaves me with a few questions. How hard is it to swap in a v-8 and can I use any of the suspension from the town car?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:21 PM
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Let's see some pics of the truck? I counsel against doing such things generally, I mean it's your truck, "to each his own" and all, tho stock unmolested trucks are getting very tough to find. Original power plants are part of the charm in my book. Everyone wants an old truck so they can turn it into a new truck. Just buy a new truck, and save the hassle. I don't get it.


Sent from a pay phone
 
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