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I might also add the stuff you want to tow is heavier than the truck! It would really be the safer thing to do to have a F250 to do the job. Nobody wants to see anyone get hurt or have something worse happen! Be safe!
OK so, increasing the towing is really out, I can do the rear end upgrade, and think i will go to 4.10's, and add the extra leaf springs. I had been wanting to add leafs to help when hauling a bed of mulch.
With this should I be able to safely pull 4000 lbs? My trailer has brakes and is a dual axle weight distributed trailer 16x8'. It weighs about 1100 lbs. WIth my tractor it should weight about 4000-4200 LBS depending on what's attached to the tractor. These will be short Trips. basically 15 miles all flat.
I also will be pulling a travel trailer it weights about 3600-4000 LBS. depending on whats going on the trip. THis has brakes too. but is single axle.
Im giving up on pulling the bigger boat because its just to heavy, with trailer and supplies its over 6000 lbs.
Should I be able to pull my 17' bass boat with it. It weighs about 3000 LBS. with trailer and supplies.
I would tow the loads you just said in a heartbeat with that truck in the conditions you said, local and flat terrain. What I would not do is head out on the interstate. Like what's already been said, you can not increase towing capacity. But I'm not the dot and I'm towing a 6k travel trailer with a half ton 300 cyl auto. I did put in a 3.73 gear and tranny cooler. It pulls it fine to my local campgrounds(less than 20 miles), on 50-55 hwys and there are a couple small grades, but mostly flat. There is no way I would hit the interstate with my rig. 4.10 would be a great up grade with the higher reving 302. The small clutch and high reverse gearing can cause issues when trying to back up steep grades.
I did put in a nice clutch that may help some too. It touch's about 100% more surface on the pressure plate and flywheel than the OEM one. The new pressure plate is awesome too. it feels so much easier to puch the peddle in now.
I did put in a nice clutch that may help some too. It touch's about 100% more surface on the pressure plate and flywheel than the OEM one. The new pressure plate is awesome too. it feels so much easier to puch the peddle in now.
The larger clutch is defiantly an upgrade, just be easy on the transmission and I would not tow in 5th gear, especially with the 3.55 gear. The 302 isn't great for towing, you will have to let it turn some rpms, where it makes its power. But on flat ground, I really don't foresee any problems. If your planning on towing daily or even weekly, it's defiantly the wrong truck for the job. I'm waiting on someone to chime in with a comment about me towing a 6k travel trailer with my 1/2 ton. The fact is, it is safer with this 2wd long bed, than my previous 97 4x4 expedition(which it was within its towing capacity). The soft rear suspension in it let the trailer push it through the curves. I would not let my kids ride with me when going to the mountains camping. This truck is much more stable and stops just as good. If I lived in a tree hugger state, i.e. CA, that strictly inforced towing/payload capacity, I would think twice about it.
I had a GMC 1/2 ton truck. It had a factory tow package thatI added air bags to. All It did was help keep the rear from squatting with the Kubota on the car trailer. I was always going to try a weight distribution hitch but never did. The F250 took care of the problem
I've pulled 6k behind both 300/6 and 302 half tons, auto and manual. 3.55s in both. No issues other than being slower than unloaded. I will say the 302/auto combo pulled the load better than the 300/4 speed. But taking it easy and being sure the trailer brakes are functioning correctly should allow for a safe tow. I'd keep the trailer weights below 6k and get a good class III hitch.
The larger clutch is defiantly an upgrade, just be easy on the transmission and I would not tow in 5th gear, especially with the 3.55 gear. The 302 isn't great for towing, you will have to let it turn some rpms, where it makes its power. But on flat ground, I really don't foresee any problems. If your planning on towing daily or even weekly, it's defiantly the wrong truck for the job. I'm waiting on someone to chime in with a comment about me towing a 6k travel trailer with my 1/2 ton. The fact is, it is safer with this 2wd long bed, than my previous 97 4x4 expedition(which it was within its towing capacity). The soft rear suspension in it let the trailer push it through the curves. I would not let my kids ride with me when going to the mountains camping. This truck is much more stable and stops just as good. If I lived in a tree hugger state, i.e. CA, that strictly inforced towing/payload capacity, I would think twice about it.
That's dead wrong, 5th gear is fine, especially on flat ground. There is no reason not to downshift unless you are running in the wind or going up a hill. A 302 doesn't lug down worth a Damn so it will be pretty clear when you need to downshift but that doesn't mean you can't use 5th
A 302 doesn't lug down worth a Damn so it will be pretty clear when you need to downshift but that doesn't mean you can't use 5th
Pulling 5000 pounds that 302 is going to be worthless in the sub 2000rpm range, might as well ignore 5th. The f250 in my sig has trouble towing hills in 5th and it is floored 75% of the time. And I'd bet my diesel will out pull any bolt on efi small block.
That's dead wrong, 5th gear is fine, especially on flat ground. There is no reason not to downshift unless you are running in the wind or going up a hill. A 302 doesn't lug down worth a Damn so it will be pretty clear when you need to downshift but that doesn't mean you can't use 5th
You may be a posting guru, but that's a freshman comment to say I'm dead wrong about towing heavy in 5th. That is common knowledge, written in the manuals, and for good reason. I'm no expert, but can tell you this, OD ratio is simply to high. It's Hard on the clutch, bearings and increases heat. It can cause multiple different problems. You may get lucky and never have a problem. But I can promise if you fry one of these transmissions, it will cost you a hell of a lot more than it saved you in fuel to use 5th. Have I towed in fifth before on long, flat ground, yes. But never anything more than a lawn mower trailer or Jon boat.
You may be a posting guru, but that's a freshman comment to say I'm dead wrong about towing heavy in 5th. That is common knowledge, written in the manuals, and for good reason. I'm no expert, but can tell you this, OD ratio is simply to high. It's Hard on the clutch, bearings and increases heat. It can cause multiple different problems. You may get lucky and never have a problem. But I can promise if you fry one of these transmissions, it will cost you a hell of a lot more than it saved you in fuel to use 5th. Have I towed in fifth before on long, flat ground, yes. But never anything more than a lawn mower trailer or Jon boat.
you can take a look at this thread if you wish, https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nto-first.html
take a close look specifically at diesel brads posts, keep in mind he is one of if not the most knowledgeable people on this site. also find the post where he monitors the temp of his 5 speed trans with no towing, towing in 5th and towing in 4th and notices no change in temperature when towing in 5th vs towing in 4th. i honestly couldn't tell you if it is any harder on the clutch or bearings, based on my experiences as a John Deere tech with agricultural equipment as long as the clutch isnt slipping it is no harder on it than being a gear lower, its harder on the engine running a higher gear but i personally have not seen any evidence its harder on the trans and clutch on either wet or dry style clutches, i do realize however that there is a substantial difference in the transmissions on a tractor and a pickup.
have a good day
Last edited by blue924.9; Oct 29, 2015 at 10:38 AM.
Reason: edited for additional info
its harder on the engine running a higher gear but i personally have not seen any evidence its harder on the trans
I was under the impression that the op has a m5od, I didn't think 5.0s could get a zf5. Obviously zf5 > m5od in all aspects, especially durability.
That aside, I worked for a construction company hauling backhoes when these trucks were new. They had multiple instances where the zf5 would weld shafts together pulling in 5th down the interstate. This caused a bit of a showdown with the dealer who eventually warrantied it and told them to use heavier oil as the atf was too thin to lube properly in those conditions. Heat? I would bet it played a role.
Edit: checked to confirm, it was a transmission shop that did the tear down.
I was under the impression that the op has a m5od, I didn't think 5.0s could get a zf5. Obviously zf5 > m5od in all aspects, especially durability.
That aside, I worked for a construction company hauling backhoes when these trucks were new. They had multiple instances where the zf5 would weld shafts together pulling in 5th down the interstate. This caused a bit of a showdown with the dealer who eventually warrantied it and told them to use heavier oil as the atf was too thin to lube properly in those conditions. Heat? I would bet it played a role.
Edit: checked to confirm, it was a transmission shop that did the tear down.
no doubt heat played a factor but was the wrong lube used from the factory or was that the dealers way of getting out of a warranty claim?
The guy at the shop said that atf just wasn't up to the conditions. The heavier oil made it shift harder but stayed on stuff better. Granted this is atf made 30 years ago so our current atf probably wouldn't have such drastic effects.