In Buffalo NY area it might be good to have an operating heat riser. Mine has missing pins on the engine side (spring in between) and the thermostatic spring is missing on the fender side . I believe it is part nmbr COTE 9A427A and would like to find working one or info on what Ford heat riser would work.

 

I looked into this a little bit with my 292, and after reading as much as I could, and wasting time, have decided they can cause more grief than they solve. They are available, if a little salty on price - maybe $50 to $75 for the entire assembly - valve, weight, and spring. Try NOS parts, LTD, or eBay, etc.

First problem with them as a practical matter, they have a common tendency to rust closed with neglect or maybe even without. When this happens will likely cause overheating and probable cracks on the drivers side exhaust manifold. The weighted end points down in the open position fwiw. Many people wire them open or remove the plate and forget about it. More on that later.

The spring itself is kind of a universal deal - if you dig around at the usual parts outlets they are available and can be made to work. Cheap. It's a bimetallic deal, as the temp increases, the tension changes and opens the valve, mostly. It sort of will flap with engine RPM too.

For all that, their function isn't so much to help warm up quicker - though they help - but their main reason for being is (supposedly) simply to prevent carburetor icing. In a narrow band of just above freezing temps and certain humidity levels the carb can ice up - and fast. The solution is basically let it warm up for a few minutes in skosh weather.

 

Thanks , bid $90 on ebay and lost, also found Mac's has 55-57 T-bird heat riser for $95 that look like they might fit . Long story short I think I will rig a cable from the cab (heat riser is free) to operate it . It runs so much better when cold started with it closed . Thanks again Rick ps. It's a 60 4x4 4spd

 

That will work. When the weather is cold a working heat riser helps the fuel in the manifold vaporize better. Keep your eyes open and you may come across one at a reasonable price, or find a junk unit that you can take the bimetal coil from and fit it to yours. That other little spring is just to keep the shaft and flapper from rattling, and you can find one to fit at a hardware store.

 

Thanks 3414 , I plan on removing the front clip to repair some rust and install a missing heater shut off valve , reroute heater hoses , repair battery tray and clean up engine etc. (engine was rebuilt locally in 2000 before I bought the truck). Thanks again , Rick

 

I have a NOS one I can sell you. You can send me a pm. I have a heater hose shut off valve coming out the front of the intake manifold behind the thermostat housing. It screws right in.I have seen some for sale at some vendors, like concours, NPD, etc. Regarding the heat riser, I took mine off due to it restricting exhaust flow. Did some research and if you go with Ram horn manifolds, (new at Mummerts) it can increase your HP another 20-30 HP. I put some on my truck and it is a little cold to start but once it warms up no problem and you have a little extra power.

 

the heater shut off I'm replacing is on the right inner fender and is operated from the heater control mounted to the dash. If I ever figure out how to post a picture I'll do that. Anyhow, the dash control has a cable to the control the defroster/heater diverter , a cable to the fresh air door and a cable to the engine compartment to
stop the flow of coolant to the cab

 

Sounds like you have the magic air heating system.

 

You are correct. I couldn't think of the name when I posted. MY fresh air door was sealed and the tube from the heater to the kick panel was removed at some time and I don't know if I should bother to take it apart and open it up. It seems to me I will be able to control the heat with the temp. control. (The other fresh air doors are working)