'06 getting harder to start
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 13
From: Mid Atlantic
'06 getting harder to start
I did a search but came up with too many options for this ***!
It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold).
I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue.
Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well.
Should I have the batteries load tested first?
Thanks for all the help and this forum!
It's a stock truck that lately does not start on the first crank (cold).
I have a scangauge II and my ficm usually reads 48.0 Volts but occasionally drops to 47.5 but I don't think that's an issue.
Batteries are about 2 years old and I have upgraded my alternator to 185 amps. I have about 10k on my fuel filters as well.
Should I have the batteries load tested first?
Thanks for all the help and this forum!
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
what are ICP and IPR values when cranking? Needs to be ICP>500, IPR around 70-80?
What is main voltage when cranking? Needs to be more than 10v
What is RPM when cranking? Needs to be more than 150rpm.
Those FICM numbers are fine.
What is main voltage when cranking? Needs to be more than 10v
What is RPM when cranking? Needs to be more than 150rpm.
Those FICM numbers are fine.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 765
Likes: 5
From: Long Island, NY
Was that picture taken while the truck was cranking or running? It looks like it was running based on the icp, ipr and volts.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
Trending Topics
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 5
A quick trick you can also do is spin out the ICP sensor on the passenger side valve cover first thing in the morning before the starter engages for the day. You should see oil wanting to spill out right at the threads.
If you don't, likely you have a leak in the high pressure oil system.
If you don't, likely you have a leak in the high pressure oil system.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 6,545
Likes: 13
From: Virginia Beach VA
Park nose down and see if it starts easier, if so then the seal for the HPOP. If not, something else like dummy plug. Pull the ICP sensor first thing before starting it, if you see oil in the hole, most likely the drivers side is the issue, not the passenger side (you see oil and it didn't leak out).
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,803
Likes: 5
Agree. You have a leak, injector o-ring or an o-ring on a dummy plug probably, something small.... that IPR at 23 isn't bad. If it was 24-28 like before, then a bigger leak for sure.
Park nose down and see if it starts easier, if so then the seal for the HPOP. If not, something else like dummy plug. Pull the ICP sensor first thing before starting it, if you see oil in the hole, most likely the drivers side is the issue, not the passenger side (you see oil and it didn't leak out).
Park nose down and see if it starts easier, if so then the seal for the HPOP. If not, something else like dummy plug. Pull the ICP sensor first thing before starting it, if you see oil in the hole, most likely the drivers side is the issue, not the passenger side (you see oil and it didn't leak out).
To be clear, though, your 48V reading on the FICM is when the motor is STONE cold, during Key On Engine Off, during the cranking when it isn't immediately starting, and even when it DOES start, yes?
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 13
From: Mid Atlantic
It is harder to start cold for sure. If I restart it within a couple of minutes of shutting down warm it starts right up.
Tuned
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 414
Likes: 2
From: Cottonwood, AZ
There are 2 ways on a late model:
1: Using an IPR test plug (HHC Diesel or ebay). This is the best test.
2: Testing through the ICP port. This method requires commanding the IPR valve closed using IDS or Autoenginuity, or by feeding it 12 volts from the battery or a special electronic IPR valve closer.
Here is my old video on it. Air testing is about the second half of the video. I'm sure there are better videos out there now.
1: Using an IPR test plug (HHC Diesel or ebay). This is the best test.
2: Testing through the ICP port. This method requires commanding the IPR valve closed using IDS or Autoenginuity, or by feeding it 12 volts from the battery or a special electronic IPR valve closer.
Here is my old video on it. Air testing is about the second half of the video. I'm sure there are better videos out there now.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,320
Likes: 13
From: Mid Atlantic
