Yeah, I knew my TPS was non- adjustable. That's why I was confused about what he was talking about. I'm getting ready to order me another throttle body.

 

Well, last night, I ordered a new IAC, a new EGR Valve Position Sensor, and a used Throttle Body. All off of Ebay. $145.32 The IAC and the EGR Valve Position Sensor, both have a lifetime warranty, and I get a 6 month warranty with the throttle body.

 

Actually I may have another thought on this. Seems to me there are oblong slots and 1 or 2 screws that tighten this down, so it is adjustable minimally. Seems to me reading of the book was that at idle should be around 1.0 volts, if I am not mistaked fully open around 5 volts (can be checked with engine non running). You just set the idle position and verify smooth operation to full open throttle. Anyone else remember this ? This verifies proper values before a new part ordered .....

 

Ford TPS sensors do not have elongated holes. They are non-adjustable.

 

As Ian said, my new TPS did not have elongated holes either, and is not adjustable. I did however, find a thread on FSB, that explained how to adjust the Throttle Stop Screw by reading the voltage at the TPS conector with a Multimeter. With KOEO, the voltage is supposed to be between 0.9 and 0.99, and you can adjust the Stop Screw until you are within those specs. After reading this, I realized I could adjust my Throttle Body, but, I really needed to replace it anyway, because I had soaked it overnight in a can of Chem Dip, 2 years ago.

 

The throttle stop screw is exactly that....it's designed to prevent the throttle blades from completely closing then sticking. It's not there to obtain some magic value. Anything between 0.6 to 1.0 VDC is fine. If the TPS voltage is out of spec. verify someone else has not jacked with the screw, if not..replace the TPS. Anything else is pointless and a waste of time.

 

How's it coming along? Get it figured out?

 

Getting closer every day. Last night I opened up the package that was my new/used throttle body. I was pretty disappointed in it's condition. I know that I'm not supposed to clean inside that thing. But, I had to. The carbon was built up on the throttle plates really bad. And the outer surface had an 1/8" thick, layer of dirt and grime and grease, hardened from sitting on a salvage yard shelf for a hundred years. I went to Napa and paid $10 for a can of Throttle Body Cleaner. Got me a rag and a small brass brush, and went at it. (it's okay, ya'll can breath now. I only used the brass brush on the outside. LOL!) I was afraid to scrub to hard, but it looks pretty decent. I put it on the engine last night, along with a new IAC, and a new EGR Position Sensor. I started it up and let it idle for about 15 minutes, and shut it off. I'm getting ready to go see if it had triggered any codes. And I still have to put that pinion seal in it. Everybody on that thread was telling me to do it by the book, but I don't have a inch pound beam style torque wrench. I watched videos on Youtube, Everybody was marking the alignment of the pinion. nut, and flange, and counting the threads, and putting it back exactly where it was at. I even checked with two local garages, and that was exactly how they do it, and they said "no problems". But, out of the benefit of the doubt, I ordered a KD Tools inch pound beam torque wrench off of Ebay, so that I could do the job "right". But, that thing ain't gonna get here until next Saturday. A whole week!!!, before I can get this job done. And then, late yesterday, you and bashby, said that ya'll changed many seals by marking the orientation and counting the threads. So, I really don't know what to do. I really do hate waiting another whole week to get this job done. Due to finance situations at times, I have been on this project for 2 years. I'm just ready to get it done and start driving my truck.

 

Keep on pluggin away, sounds like you're on the right track. I will be in the same boat soon, need to work on a temporary driver while I start working on the full size f150, have lots of things planned as well, and weather is getting cold ....

 

Well, I started my truck again today, and let it idle for about half an hour, then I shut it off and checked for codes. The first code was 121. Again. Closed Throttle Voltage higher or lower than expected. And the 2nd code was 111. System Pass. Now why would it give a system pass, if it tripped a 121? So, next I tested the TPS. KOEO. By the way, I bought it new last year off of Ebay for $16, and it literally has no running time. It is a BWD brand. The sensor voltage at idle is 0.553. At WOT, it is 4.48. The Reference Voltage is 5.03. Then I unplugged the TPS and checked the resistance at the potentiometer. It was 3.99 ohm's at closed throttle. But as I slowly open the throttle, at WOT, according to the book, it is supposed to be approximately 350 ohm's. This is where there is a problem. When I open the throttle, it does nothing, It stays right at 3.99 ohms. So, now I'm thinking, faulty TPS? I think I'm going to buy another one. Is there a brand that is supposed to be "The Best"?

 

I don't know about "best" I have had decent luck with bwd stuff. But you get bad parts out of the box time to time.

 

Motorcraft TPS. I know its spendy, but its OEM and least chance of failure.