I need help. Of course.

My truck has been acting up for a while, now, and I can't seem to find out what it could be. Everytime I try to get up to speed when cold or cooled off a bit it spudders and hesitates to the point that even at top gear with TC locked it misses and jerks. This keeps going on until a good 15-20 miles. Then it becomes better, almost good, but I still feel its not like 100%. I have a EGR delete, change oil and fuel filters every 5000 miles, I run an SCT 3015 tuner and removed it to see if that was the cause, cleaned EBP and MAP sensors, tubes and fittings, checked FICM voltage 48.1 off and 48.7 running, FICM is only 2 years old and so are head gaskets. I havent checked ICP but tried it unplugged, haven't checked IPR, injectors have been checked for this problem and two have been replaced, battery terminals were full of corrosion and got cleaned and fixed and it made the truck runn little better. Oh and I also have a blue spring. When it runs well and I get on it it has plenty of power. At least enough to leave my buddy's All Black 2015 Cummins in the dust even while carrying my gixxer 1000. So I doubt its fuel pressure related but then again it is a 6.0. And it does not smoke other than black if I get on it. Once turbo spools, no more smoke.

I'm scratching my head here and I can't conduct all the testing I want. I'm away trucking during the week and I get home on friday night. I can only leave the truck to a shop that's 2 hours from here if I want to get stuff done. Please help me out!

Thanks!

 

What is the Values for ICP and ICPV ? Do the test koeo, low, high 2500 rpm, also when was the last water step drain and that filter change did you go back with OEM Fuel filters? Also 1 more sensor to clean IAT 2 just behind the upper fuel bowl, be careful the clip may snap off but it seems to fit snug even when broke off.

 

Injector contribution test in order? What is your FICM volts cold, as in first thing in am, with cold soak. I think you also need to clean IAT2 and double check MAP tube is open, and the EBP tube is open. Then run the relearn procedure. Do you still have a working EGR valve and is it plugged in? Also, need year, and type of truck to help. It would be really helpful if you had readings from a scangauge or DashBoss?

 

Usually temps around 80deg is good to go , it helps with the Trans fluid to heat up aswell, temps down below 70 or so my truck is like a slug

 

I checked the MAP tube before posting yesterdau and found a hole at the clamp. Cut about 3/4" off and put it back on after cleaning. I don't have an EGR valve anymore. It has been deleted. I also did the EBP tube and sensor yesterday. I did the FICM voltage after the truck had been sitting but not overnight. I will test it again next weekend. My tools are not where I'm at right now and require a drive to get to. What exactly is the relearn procedure? How do you run it?

 

I would check and clean IAT2, the EBP tube, then run relearn. You also need to clean the MAF before following the next steps. Best to have all these sensors working properly.

Relearn is disconnect both batteries' turn on headlights, wait 15 minutes, , turn off headlights, reconnect batteries.

Turn ignition to on, stop, wait 20 seconds when on, then turn back to off, 29 seconds,
Do ignition on off for 3 more times,
Start truck, let idle 20 minutes, ( you may hear varying VGT relearn while idling)
Drive to complete drive sequence, varied throttle, speed, atleast 30 minutes.
Check for codes, may need to continue the drive cycle.

One problem that might be an issue is you don't have an EGR and it's not plugged in. If your tune is not loaded properly, and the EGR properly turned off by the program, it could be causing you some issues. If you are running without tune, you must have the EGR valve atleast plugged in to the engine loom, even if it's just splitting there in the valley.

 

I don't have the EGR valve anymore. Its been thrown away with the EGR cooler and Y up-pipe. I do run an SCT 3015 tuner for that purpose.

I have tried running with the ICP unplugged today. It ran...somewhat...better. Had more throttle response. Less power-lag. With ICP plugged in, the boost will come on but power kicks in later. Like at least 3 to 4 seconds later. Any input about that...?

I will check IAT2 and try a relearn next weekend. I have to leave tomorrow for the week. I will update about what I find. 😎

 

With out the values it's like finding a needle in a hay stack, what was the ICPV ? Injector Control pressure Volts , it don't make since having more turbo with ICP unplugged all that does is Default back to the IPR, map, ebp , maf , baro would be Turbo so having a hole in the MAP Hose is a good catch I would replace it probably cracked and you just haven't seen it yet. Also double check CAC boots on the pressure side along with the plastic tank there known to get oil soaked and split and the plastic tank is not forever it will crack letting pressure by.Injector Contribution test is a good Idea to see the Heath of the inject and will pin point which one is giving you trouble. Now let's get back to the IPR , you can pull the Sensor and check the screen, You will need a special socket to get past the electrical plug in, pay attention for any debris that the screen has collected. When you cleaned the Map ( hopefully not the sensor) and just the threaded nipple along with the little hole in the Intake.

 

Just adding to the FICM concept, you are right to check that puppy STONE cold. Many a shot FICM looks like it is just PURRRRRRFECT when things are at all warm.

We see it every day when we get the modules in for repair.

If you do need a repair, we could even set you up with a tune on your FICM to have you fall in love with your 6.0 all over again!

Hope this helps!

 

I did inspect the MAP tube and cleaned the nipple. Same for the EBP. I did not say there was more boost with ICP unplugged. Boost was about the same. Difference is that when it is plugged in, power comes later. Boost comes up, but power later. Ther is some power obviously but there is a lag until there is full power.

 

I'm thinking Turbo related, unisome ring or sticking vanes, if your truck sits for a while when your on the road or long idling periods this will soot up and rust the vanes , to where they don't open and close when asked , VGT Silinoid would also be another , let's run the Turbo test , do the test like this
Koeo- ( key on engine off) make note of values
Low- ( idleing no Throttle, no HVAC, no radio) make note
High ( 2500 rpm steady ) Make note
You want to look at
1 map
2 ebp
3 baro
4 VGT
Make a note on the Values on each of the tests. And post them so we can Decipher
Scan gauge can read up to 4 values at a time , if you have a I phone app , dash boss something that you can plug into the OBD Port to monitor these sensors would be a big help for you

 

Unusual name Comeau... where you from, Comeauville Canada?
My wife's family is from there, she is a Comeau also.

 

Haha! No I'm from Shippagan, New Brunswick, Canada.

 

Okay. So I got back from trucking on thursday. Since then, I pulled the IAT2 and cleaned it. It was just a ball of cokeing. Got it all clean and put it back on. Helped the way the truck runs but not the spuddering problem so I don't think its related.

On sunday I went to my buddy's house. He has a ScanGauge II but not the Ford upgrade. I could still read the IAT2 and it read fine.

I also replaced the MAP but it changed nothing.

The EBP works good, tube not leaking.

Turbo works good also. No sticking. Also did a relearn procedure last night which did not help. Felt kinda weird doing it since acording to DieselTechRon on YouTube, it is only necessary for '03 and '04. Mine is an '06.

This morning I checked my FICM again but stone cold, this time. It read perfect.

KOEO - 48.2V
Cranking - 47.9V
KOER - 48.1V

Now I haven't yet checked the fuel pressure and its behavior, ICP volts and IPR percentage. I know all injectors are good since I had them professionnally checked and had 2 replaced.

Now, since when I posted, I feel like my problem has gotten a little bit better. I'll spudder and buck but for less longer than before and not as bad. Maybe because the truck just runs "better" with a clean MAP, EBP and IAT2. Anyway it still misses and bucks so its not cured.

Btw, I also ran a bottle of Diesel 911 in my last tank of fuel. The grey bottle. Dunno if that's why it gets better but I'll run another one in this tank see if it helps.

 

This may sound dumb but how long since your last oil change? my truck will do the spuddering when i am getting close to my 5k mark. It started the day before yesterday and changed the oil and no issues now.