My 2011 f250 has 92k miles, I want to change all 16 spark plugs.

Do the 6.2l plugs have problems breaking like the 3v engines did?

I think I'm going to pull the passenger fender liner to get to the lower plugs in the head.

How does the coil pigtail unclip? I looked at them briefly earlier and it looks like you pull the red tab back, then press down and pull on the pigtail but that did not work and I did not want to break anything.

 

From the 2014 Ford DVD service section for changing the 6.2 spark plugs

Spark Plugs
Removal

NOTICE: The spark plug procedure must be followed exactly or damage to the cylinder head and spark plug will result.

NOTICE: Do not remove the spark plugs when the engine is hot or cold soaked. Spark plug thread or cylinder head damage can occur. Make sure the engine is warm (hand touch after cooling down) prior to spark plug removal.

Upper spark plugs


Remove the ignition coil-on-plugs. For additional information, refer to Ignition Coil-On-Plug in this section.
Lower spark plugs


Disconnect the ignition wire from the lower spark plugs.
All spark plugs


NOTICE: Only use hand tools when removing or installing the spark plugs or damage can occur to the cylinder head or spark plug.

NOTE: Use compressed air to remove any foreign material from the spark plug well before removing the spark plugs.

Remove the spark plugs.
Inspect the spark plugs. For additional information, refer to Section 303-00 .
Installation

All spark plugs


Adjust the spark plug gaps as necessary. For the correct spark plug gap specification, refer to Specifications in this section.

NOTICE: Only use hand tools when removing or installing the spark plugs or damage can occur to the cylinder head or spark plug.

Install the spark plugs.
Tighten to 18 Nm (159 lb-in).
Lower spark plugs


Connect the ignition wire to the lower spark plugs.
Upper spark plugs


Install the ignition coil-on-plugs. For additional information, refer to Ignition Coil-On-Plug in this section.

 

Thank you, I watched a video and it seems you have to really tug back on the red clip for the cop pigtail.

I have to order my plugs this week from rockauto because local dealers are the only place that stock the sp-526 motorcraft plugs and they want $8 a piece.
Might as well order a 6r140 filter as well .

 

Some observations from when I did spark plugs a few months ago: On the passenger side, taking out one screw allowed enough flex in the inner liner to easily get at that back plug. I found the driver side a little more difficult because the liner had no where to move. A variety of socket extensions was essential, and you'll need something that can grab hold of the plugs once they're out because you can't get your fingers on them to pull them out or start to screw them in. I found that a piece of hose fitted snugly over the end of the spark plug helped get that "finger" start to threading them back in or to get them out of the deep wells.

Once you pull the red tab out on the coil pigtail, just push down on it as you unplug the pigtail. I pulled the tab, and nothing happened, so I pulled harder and broke it. THEN I found the video that you probably saw and the rest were easy.

Doing plugs on this was a whole new experience from the good old days of changing 8 on the 5.0 Bronco! I did try to warm the engine as recommended so it wouldn't be cold soaked, and I used a torque wrench.

 

Thanks for the info bigbronco. What did you do about the broken coil pigtail? Also how many miles were on your engine when you replaced your plugs?

 

It had 112k on it - bought it at 107 in Feb. of this year. I broke the red pull tab, so when I put the pigtail back on, I pushed the remaining part of the pull tab back in place. I know I will have to replace that pigtail at some point.

 

Well I completed the task yesterday evening, it took me about 4 hours. It's not as bad as I thought it would be but it becomes a pita because it's so time consuming. I started on the driver side 8 and by the time I got to the passenger side I was fatigued and it seemed to take forever.

I did not remove the fender liner on the passenger side I just worked through the gap near the spring bucket. Surprisingly all of my plugs were within gap spec, out of the 16 there were about 4 that "needed" replacement.

I did break one of the red clips the same way you did, but the pigtail still locks onto the coil so I am leaving it, I can still remove it with a small pick.

Dealer would've been a few hundred dollars for this, they wanted $130 just for the spark plugs. I went to advance auto and purchased the same plugs and completed this job for a total of $60 and my time.

 

Don't price out the coil packs. You'll need a fresh pair of underwear. They wanted over 200$ a piece from ford for coil packs. Canadian dollars.

 

When installing new plugs in aluminum heads I always use anti-seize on the threads. It makes removing them easier. Also use Di-electric grease on the coil boot for the same reason

 

Glad it went well for you. Like you, I got my plugs from Advance and just couldn't afford to pay to have it done. The coil connector part no. is WPT-931 (9U2Z-14S411-EA) and costs about $25. After looking into the pros and cons of anti-seize on the threads, I decided not to use it.

 

What are the cons of anti-seize? Ive been using it since forever with no bad experience other than it can be a little messy......

 

dis-similar metals is a bad thing... add heat and cool cycles.. with aluminum .

I just pulled all of mime yesterday.. as I purchased this truck in July with 136,000 miles...

Yes past owner had them replaced.. and the plugs did not unscrew freely..

there is NO BAD side of using anti-seize ... other then the added cost.

retired auto mechanic .. 43 years.

 

Thats what I was thinking too. Couldnt imagine not using it.

 

+1 to anti-seize. Did it on my plugs on 6.2 earlier this year.

 

Bronco, thanks for the part number for the pigtail, I also didn't use antiseize or dialectic grease. My plugs, coils and plug wires all came out in one piece.