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So I have been having this little issue for a few weeks now. I will be driving along and out of nowhere my batt light will come on and my gauge cluster,radio and windows stop working and the ficim volts jump to 15.5-16.5. This is an intermittent issue. Yesterday I put my multi meter on the alternator and I am reading 13.5 or so this number was done at idle and the batt light was NOT on . any thoughts would be great.
The battery light is pretty reliable. If it's coming on odds are great that there is a alternator or battery circuit issue. Intermittent stuff is the worst!
The battery light is pretty reliable. If it's coming on odds are great that there is a alternator or battery circuit issue. Intermittent stuff is the worst!
I am going to start checking the wires and I also am going to keep an eye on the vlt meter on my scangauge next time it happens and see what the vlts are doing
I'd clean up the cables and the ground connections, get the batteries tested, and keep an eye on it. A bad alternator is hard on the FICM and repair to it can be expensive, if everything else looks ok and the light continues to come on, I'd put an alternator on it quickly.
There is a thread in the first couple of pages in this forum discussing the ground cables. I'd read through that also and consider doing the additional ground that's described.
I'd clean up the cables and the ground connections, get the batteries tested, and keep an eye on it. A bad alternator is hard on the FICM and repair to it can be expensive, if everything else looks ok and the light continues to come on, I'd put an alternator on it quickly.
There is a thread in the first couple of pages in this forum discussing the ground cables. I'd read through that also and consider doing the additional ground that's described.
I've recently put the bpd remote oil kit in now that it's back together I've had difficulty starting it originally I had the ficm plugged in halfass ( middle ) and went in and rectified that but my sgii is still giving me these codes, new batteries and new alt.
P0264 C2402 and c3302
P0202
P0273
Not saying you do or don't have an alternator problem but I was having the very same symptoms you had. Changed the alternator and never looked back.
Yea I also was seeing the same thing. Replaced alt and never saw it again. Was told the regulator can cause it from bad diodes going in and out with changes in temps etc.
So I have been having this little issue for a few weeks now. I will be driving along and out of nowhere my batt light will come on and my gauge cluster,radio and windows stop working and the ficim volts jump to 15.5-16.5. This is an intermittent issue. Yesterday I put my multi meter on the alternator and I am reading 13.5 or so this number was done at idle and the batt light was NOT on . any thoughts would be great.
i've not posted here in a long while.... work has been pretty hot and
heavy of late.....
i'm an electrical contractor with a fair bit of heavy industrial work,
as well as battery rooms and UPS's..... about 36 years worth.
that being said, i've also got an '06 E-350 with our favorite engine
group in it.
here is what i've found to be true:
the OEM alternator will not charge the batteries above 25% charge,
at 13.2~13.4 volts output.
ideally, to maintain a healthy electrical system, the output of the
alternator should be 14.5 volts or so. my van currently is 14.7
when your system voltage with the engine running is 13.2 or whatever
the OEM will produce for you, your FICM will draw MORE CURRENT to
operate your injectors than it will draw at 14.7 volts.
heat in a circuit is a function of CURRENT FLOW, not voltage.
high current flow shortens the life of the FICM.
godzilla sized wire does little benefit. properly crimped connectors
have a far more important contribution, and CLEAN, TIGHT connections
have the most importance.
what do i have as best practices in my van?
DC Power alternator XP 270 alternator
two Oddesy batteries 65-PC1750T
FICM repair.com spiffed ficm with php flash.
i've hooked up a clamp on amp meter to my battery cable when
starting, and the ONLY time my batteries discharge is when
cranking the engine. five seconds after the engine catches,
the system voltage is up to 14.8, never drops no matter what,
and the batteries are being charged.
stone cold, cranking an 1,800 watt stereo full clip, drawing
180 amps peak, the batteries are still charging.
stock battery cables and connections.
here is what ficmrepair.com says about the ford electrical system:
"Your alternator(s) must be fully functional and your batteries must
measure more than 13.3 volts when the truck is at full operating
temperature with all the accessories on (high beams, blower motor,
radio, heated seats if you have them, etc) to retain your warranty.
Failure to bench test the batteries and alternator(s) will result in
voiding the FICM warranty."
i was on my third pair of batteries before throwing away the OEM
POS alternator, and getting something that worked.
