What's up fellow EX homies?!? These stereo threads are somewhat abundant here on the board, so my up front apologies if some of my post is repeated...

Sound off your thoughts, as they're called for...

Kenwood DNX692 signalling (2) JL Audio 1st gen Slash amps: 300/2 driving Infinity Kappa 5.25 separates; 500/1 running (2) Pioneer ib-flat 10" shallows that I plan to install in the barn doors; while the Kenwood head unit will run Infinity Kappa coax's in the rear doors and rear quarters. Should be a pretty sweet setup IMO.

I'm going to use Fat Mat deadener in all doors, but my concern is lining the inside of the barn doors in this stuff. I feel like it defeats the purpose of an enclosure, or am I just not thinking it correctly? I'll spray expansion foam in all the areas prone to leak air inside them. Build a carpet matched MDF panel (like those seen in some of the previous threads) to replace the barn's door panel, and use a layer of Fat Mat between the metal surface of the door and MDF panel to act as a gasket. Also to try to keep rattling down to bare minimums. I don't want to over think, or over build, this setup.

What say you?

-shannon

 

I have seen where some have put a sub in the back hatch. Which I have thought about doing personally.

Off topic, but:

Also a liquor cabinet/mini bar. This is what I wanna do

 

LOL! Could be a new Uber business if you're looking for extra cash!

-shannon

 

I would highly not recommend to use expansion foam, especially when it comes to doors.

You talk about this issue, "the areas prone to leak air inside them"

Understand the point what... if we talk about the doors, especially if they have Windows - this is the live environment.

There is, by definition, will trap moisture and condensation.
When you are processing - you have to remember that the hole needs to be opened through them should evaporate the moisture.

Better stay on the mastic material with foil. Whether Fatmat or some other brand.
If you want to do more efficiently then binding the second layer of closed-cell polyethylene foam

In any case, before you apply any material or foam, make sure that they do not absorb moisture"

And don't forget to leave an open hole!

 

Maybe we're not talking about the same thing... sounds like you're referring to the actual side doors, and not the rear (cargo area) barn doors. There is no glass in them, but rather they're hollow for the most part. I am curious why Ford didn't seal these doors, as there's not any electrical that I can find in them. There are (2) small inch long slit-like openings in the bottom side of them though. These I plan to seal along with the inside portions of the door where door hardware is located. If I'm wrong anywhere in my response guys, please advise. Would particularly like to hear from someone who's done what I'm about to do. Thanks!

 

You still have the guides that provide resistance to closing after opening, door latches, handles. Doesn't sound like much but it would sink a sub (small pun intended) There is no place that moisture of some amount won't get into anything. That's why they put drains under sun/moon roofs. If air can get in--which brings moisture, it needs some way out or it will rot some foam, grow some mold, etc. I'm just running it through my head whether there would be some advantage to an absolute seal around a shallow sub in this case. Almost seems you'd get the most air movement from a port (like a bass reflex) or a passive radiator if you want tight base. If you just want to buzz the windows with distorted stuff it probably doesn't matter