The problem with the metal (80-86) handles is they will tear the sheet metal door.

Might as well fix it right

 

My hinges and bushings are all good. Looks like I'll be redoign the entire mechanism. Thanks!

Thanks Jarrett. I'll have to find them.

Agreed. Looks like I'll be going that way. Does this mean cable, door latch, etc or just the cable? I guess I need to look at it again.

 

If the door panel isn't cracked & nothing is bent you may get away with putting a few more twists in the cable as long as you twist it the right way .If you have been fighting it for a while it my just need a new cable . Look at the latch mechanism . If there is a lever to receive the cable , it may be bent

 

I think its a play of both an issue, and a crappy design. I have installed 2 handles on my driver side door, of which there is an issue with the door itself. Not sure what just yet though. Sometimes it pulls fine, and other times it wont pull at all.

My front passenger handle needs replaced because my buddy got a little to aggressive with it getting out of my truck one day.

I think a metal handle would be a far better design than the plastic handles, although I agree generally there is an issue with the door itself should the handle break.

 

Ford sells it as an assembly. for about $145

 

Maybe this will help!

I just replaced both of mine a couple of years ago so I'll offer this bit of info to assist you in your quest.

The actuator is no longer available by itself. Unless you can find a used one in good serviceable condition somewhere we're all relegated to buying the complete LOCK LATCH CONTROL ASSEMBLY to get what we want. Here are the part numbers for LH-(drivers side) and RH-(passenger side). These part numbers include the part the handle bolts onto-(Actuator), the cable, and locking latch as one complete assembly. I bought mine from site sponsor Gaudin Ford.

The root cause of the door handles breaking is three-fold. First the door hinge pins and bushings wear excessively causing door to sag vertically, this condition in turn causes the locking latch to bind and lock up out of alignment on the door striker, then you get excessive wear on the (actuator)- part the handle bolts onto, the actuator has a cheap metal pin that holds the actuator assembly together it's made up of three parts and once it wears in from excessive friction binding your door handle then get's ever more difficult to actuate open-door and eventually snaps off-breaks.

LOCK LATCH CONTROL ASSEMBLY LH-OEM# F4TZ-15219A65-A,
Placement on Vehicle: Left-Front
LH Drivers Side Door Lock Latch,
Handle Actuator, & Cable new OEM. $125.00 ea.

LOCK LATCH CONTROL ASSEMBLY RH-OEM# F4TZ-15219A64-A,
Placement on Vehicle: Right-Front
RH Passenger Side Door Lock Latch,
Handle Actuator & Cable new OEM
$125.00 ea.

List of other associated parts you will more than likely need to complete your installation. I didn't bother ordering the parts listed below with my LOCK LATCH CONTROL ASSEMBLIES and was kicking myself in the a$$ later when I had the door all disassembled and realized I needed them especially when I had to wait for them to ship not to mention the additional shipping charge.

Bushing rod -control rod retainer at lock. OEM# D2VY-65219A38-B,
2each req per side LH or RH. $0.51 ea.

Control Rod Retainer Lock ****. OEM# D9BZ-5421952-B,
1each req per side LH or RH. $9.71 ea.

Control Rod Retainer at Handle. OEM# E1DZ-5421952-A,
1each req per side LH or RH. $0.67 ea.

If your door panel is cracked underneath where the actuator bolts on, just get some 2" x 1/8" flat stock and cut 4" long, drill hole for attachment bolt and drill/file hole for actuator retaining tab. Use this as a backup. Mine weren't to bad only one small crack, however I went ahead and cut the backup plates and installed anyway.

Since you must remove the electric door lock actuator to remove the Locking Latch, you may want to replace them while your at it if yours are not working as mine were. Below are the part numbers.

Actuator-Door Lock. OEM# F8TZ-15218A42-A,
LH and RH. $61.00 ea.

Rivet-Retainer for Actuator-Door Lock. OEM# W701566-S417
$1.50 ea.

Also forgot to mention you should check your Door Hinge Pins and Bushings for excessive wear and replace if you have to much vertical movement or you'll have the same problem you started with in short order. Also a good idea to replace your Door Striker Bushings if worn or cracked.

Door Hinge Pins and Bushing Kit-Dorman #38410,
Ford OEM #D90Z 6522841-C
Ford TRKS 97-80

Door Striker Bushings-Dorman #38424

Additional Door Items:
DOOR HANDLES INTERIOR
Interior: LH DOOR HANDLE (BLACK METAL) DORMAN #77178M
OEM#:E7TZ-1522601-A
Interior: RH DOOR HANDLE (BLACK METAL) DORMAN #77177M
OEM#:E7TZ-1522600-A

DOOR HANDLES EXTERIOR
Ext. RH DOOR HANDLE PASSENGER SIDE, OUTSIDE-FRONT (CHROME) DORMAN #77666
OEM#: E7TZ-1522404-A
Ext. LH DOOR HANDLE DRIVER, OUTSIDE-FRONT (CHROME) DORMAN #77663
OEM#: E7TZ-1522405-A

Ext. DOOR HANDLE MOUNTING PADS
LH Door Handle Mounting Pads Item #34366LH - New $8.00
RH Door Handle Mounting Pads Item #34366RH - New $8.00


PUSHPIN (interior door panel cover)Ford OE #N802900 5 required each side.
PRODUCT CODE: PAS1558-25 $4.99 25ea
Dorman Part#700-413 15ea $14.99

 

Man thanks so much for the comprehensive list! It really helps. Tried to rep you. Maybe someone else can?

 

^^^^^ Repped.