I went to program the Xgauge for Boost and noticed that with the last digits still at 0000 then gauge is working just fine. My boost reading at idle is 0.0 and the boost seems to be reading. When I went to get the reading used to reference the chart it was 0.0


I did select Boost over MAP during setup, so am I reading the BST from the normal scangauge reading or am I reading the Xguage?


What did I do wrong? or is this a new improved feature?

 

You can manually program for a Boost (BST) Reading. You do have to determine your Atmospheric Pressure.

 

I had to go to setup and de-select BST and set it to MAP and then it worked. Thanks.


Of course with it set at BST on setup it also worked, maybe a new feature?

 

I have BST on mine as well as MAP

 

Yes that is what I have now, the BST worked just fine without the Xgauge command?


Anyway, what is your Engine Oil Temp at? I am seeing 197 on the engine oil and only 145 on the trans oil. I have not gone that far, about 25 miles and got those readings.

 

I would add the X-Gauge Equation in the final field. If, for no other reason, it's provided.

OPERATING PERAMETERS FOR A 1999.5 7.3L DIT:

ECT Engine Coolant Temperature: 140°F - 230°F

**This is only Accurate (Per se) if one has a M/T. A/T Equipped Vehicles obtain it's reading by a compilation of other known variables. Let me explain. On A/T equipped vehicles, the wires from the Cluster to the Sensor no where splice or come into contact with the PCM.

I personally spent several hours over a week or so with Linear Logic about this.

I have about 20 e-mails from Tech Support as well.

They discussed it with Ford and they hold to the statement that Ford (who provides the PID information to Linear Logic) states it is accurate for both. But, how?

I faxed and emailed Linear Logic as well as Ford Engineering the Wiring Diagram and a note outlined as seen here.

Ford responded with a letter to me as well a few weeks later thanking me for my inquire. And, standing by their statement that the Temperature displayed is correct.

The EOT is probably a more important number to observe as it's measuring the core of the Engine and the suffrage of the bearings and so forth.

EOT Engine Oil Temperature: 140°F - 235°F

EB Turbo Boost Pressure Boost: 15 - 27 PSI

TFT Transmission Fluid Temperature: 150°F - 230°F

EGT Exhaust Gas Temperature Gauge: MAX = 1,250 °F

EBP Exhaust Back Pressure: 0-45 PSIG at WOT

IPR Duty Cycle 10% - 65% (Hz)

ICP Injector Control Pressure 490 – 2,800 PSIG

FPW Fuel Pulse Width) Span: 1-6 mS

One other one I would use when I lived in the Frozen Tundra of the North East was the GP% It reads 99% = ON / and 0 = OFF. So, you know exactly what the state is (assuming they work).


Glow Plug Percent
TXD:C410F1221430
RXF:046205140630
RXD:3008
MTH:0F5127100000
NAM: GP%

Thank goodness for the South and Retirement!

 

The scan gauge can read EGT?


My engine coolant temp on the scangauge reads -40, what is up with that?


I want to buy some mechanic/regular gauges, but if the Scangauge can give me a good reading than why waste the space and money. I like the TFT and BST on the scangauge, so I am not going to buy another gauge for those readings. So far it is looking like I will need a Pyro, fuel pressure, and looks like engine coolant temp if the scangauge will not work. Just don't know where I would install the sensor, I used the port below the t-stat for the coolant filter setup.


I had Isspro's on my old idi, of course that truck did not have a computer. The isspro boost gauge did not last very long, maybe 1 year and it broke. I have a scangauge that I got for my VW TDI years ago, and it is still working.

 

No, I provided the Maximum Operating Temperature. "Normals" you asked for.

Specific to Ford, this indicates an Open Circuit on Pulse With Modulation (PWM) Protocol. Try this...

ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) *F
TXD: C410F1221139
RXF: 046205110639
RXD: 3008
MTH: 00010002007F
Max = 235*F

What you will see on the Scangauge II is what your PCM sees. So, the addition of a EGT Probe and Gauge. And, a Water Temperature Gauge you're set.

And, you can retrieve and clear codes, use the fuel computer, and so forth within the gauge.

You will want to check the Fuel Pressure along the way to see how that's doing and get an idea of the system's overall health.

Many add a Fuel Pressure Gauge as well. I


I seek out practicality and performance prior to appearance and neat stuff.


.

 

Thanks will try the ECT codes. I am going to avoid the Isspro gauges, might go with Glowshift. Glowshifts seems to have good customer service. The glowshifts are cheap, so not much of a risk. I did notice that the Scangauge cable was made in China, most likely will fail in a year or two.


So If I get a Pyro, fuel pressure and coolant gauge I should be good. Where should the sending unit for the coolant temp sensor go? I have a coolant filter, so the port under the t-stat is used.

 

Specific to Ford, this indicates an Open Circuit on Pulse With Modulation (PWM) Protocol. Try this...

ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) *F
TXD: C410F1221139
RXF: 046205110639
RXD: 3008
MTH: 00010002007F
Max = 235*F


That worked, but reading 100 degrees high, 187, truck was stone cold. ambient is about 87 degrees. EOT was reading 86. I just let the truck idle for a few seconds, I will drive it in the morning and see.

 

It won't display an accurate number until the EOT reaches 140*F then everything will be okay!

I spoke to Linear Logic specifically about this and they had no answer other than "we have heard that".

 

Thanks, one less analog gauge needed. Looks like Pyro, fuel psi, and maybe the HPOP one. Or can the Scangauge read HPOP?


I see in your signature you have the DP-tuner, I was going to go with them or Hydra (undecided)

 

The HPOP can be monitored by the Scangauge. It's the ICP and IPR.

If you do any kind of towing, you will want the EGT/Pyrometer prior to anything else.

Chips are a personal choice as you will soon discover; there is no reason to start another Thread.

I have a DP Tuner because I researched and they met my needs at a price I could afford.

Why?

a. I don't tinker with Tunes or anything like that. It's a Daily Driver and tows several times a ear

b. I have seen way too many Engines Smoked by people who didn't do their research; the same for Transmissions (although I never did Transmission work, whish now I had).

c. The Killer on any Engine is Heat. On a Diesel like the Powerstroke Series (HEUI), its exacerbated x10 easily because it [Powerstroke] uses the Oil for more than just lubrication.

Here is my PERSONAL suggestion for a Chip:

1. Do not even think about a Chip or Programmer until the Stock configuration you have now is 100% !! I don't mean 100% hanging by a thread. 100% and sturdy.

Too Hot a Tune, an incorrect tune, or programming, not enough Air, too much fuel, or one that over clocks your capabilities can cost you an Engine, fast.....

I'm sure other will comment. Here are just a few... Edge, Banks, Predator, Hydra, DP Tuner, Super Chips, Bully Dog, DTS, Hyper Chips, Diablo Sport

2. There are several here who have custom tunes. That's as well an option. For many, they wouldn't have it any other way.

3. Read, read, read. Use the Search Payne up top.

4. Call and speak with people who sell them like Jody at DP-Tuner. Or, Cody, or someone else. If they're not willing to take time to talk now; when will they make time after you purchase?

 

Engine Coolant Temperature has no input to the PCM on automatics, so ECT is a "phantom" number on any OBDII gauge.

 

Covered that...

You could chime in on the Tuner/Chip as I agree with your opinions wholeheartedly.