Preping for the engine swap. Do's and don'ts?
#1
Preping for the engine swap. Do's and don'ts?
Good evening everybody of the ford forums how is it going? Great to hear! Anyways down to business I am almost to the point that I can in theory tear down my truck so I can swap out the 302 with the M5OD for a built 351W with a stock untouched c6 into the girl with and yes UI am ready for flack, a carb to run the engine. Now me and my father we have some conflict on the best manor to do this, he wants to pull the engine and trans in two halves out of the truck then swap the new setup in two halves as well, now being that I have a crane I was thinking we could pull it in one piece and set the new stuff in in one piece and then worry if we gotta mod a mount or two as we go.
My next question is being that I have a set of flow-tech long tubes that are just shy of two years old I was wondering if I could unbolt them at the flange and take them with the 302 with no issues or if it would be best to get them out in the bay then fool with them later, obviously I'd like to use this same set of headers on the 351W but am unsure as of now if I need to clearance or mod anything on the passenger side because if I remember right getting them in for the 302 with a nightmare in itself. Now if they won't work what would be a good replacement header? I can live with a set of shorty's for sure as I'm mainly looking to just get it going and running good so I can daily it/play around with it.
Next question, looking to find some locking nuts for my torque converter as well but did not know the size or thread off the top of my head and was wondering if anyone knew.
Next I'm worried that the M5OD and the C6 mount is different, is this true? Or is it as simple as moving the cross-member up a few inches?
Now I'm also gonna be breaking this engine in in the truck and was wondering what is the best way to break in the cam on these trucks? My cam is a flat tappet cam and I wanna be sure I do it right the first time?
Also wanting to make sure the trans is gonna shift fine before I get this thing even on the road so is it possible for me to jack up the rear and "run it through the gears" to get an idea or is the only way to know just to put it in gear in the driveway and find out?
So sorry for being long winded and I'm sure more questions/pictures will come buuuuuuuuuuuuuuut its cold outside I'm wanting this done no later than the end of this years and quite Franky I'm just tired of seeing the engine on a stand.
Once again thanks in advance Shadow.
P. S. For the record once this thing is right it will see every bit of hell I can humanly throw at it without wrapping it around a tree. its gonna be mad evil and mad fun.
My next question is being that I have a set of flow-tech long tubes that are just shy of two years old I was wondering if I could unbolt them at the flange and take them with the 302 with no issues or if it would be best to get them out in the bay then fool with them later, obviously I'd like to use this same set of headers on the 351W but am unsure as of now if I need to clearance or mod anything on the passenger side because if I remember right getting them in for the 302 with a nightmare in itself. Now if they won't work what would be a good replacement header? I can live with a set of shorty's for sure as I'm mainly looking to just get it going and running good so I can daily it/play around with it.
Next question, looking to find some locking nuts for my torque converter as well but did not know the size or thread off the top of my head and was wondering if anyone knew.
Next I'm worried that the M5OD and the C6 mount is different, is this true? Or is it as simple as moving the cross-member up a few inches?
Now I'm also gonna be breaking this engine in in the truck and was wondering what is the best way to break in the cam on these trucks? My cam is a flat tappet cam and I wanna be sure I do it right the first time?
Also wanting to make sure the trans is gonna shift fine before I get this thing even on the road so is it possible for me to jack up the rear and "run it through the gears" to get an idea or is the only way to know just to put it in gear in the driveway and find out?
So sorry for being long winded and I'm sure more questions/pictures will come buuuuuuuuuuuuuuut its cold outside I'm wanting this done no later than the end of this years and quite Franky I'm just tired of seeing the engine on a stand.
Once again thanks in advance Shadow.
P. S. For the record once this thing is right it will see every bit of hell I can humanly throw at it without wrapping it around a tree. its gonna be mad evil and mad fun.
#2
1. You can put engine & trans in as a unit but, gotta remove radiator and maybe hood and get truck up on stands to make the unit slide in. A lift beam will be a major asset.
2. Headers should fit, will most likely have to put them on 351 after it is in. Engine width difference should not matter on headers if true duals.
3. IIRC t/c nuts are 3/8-24 can't say about crossmember.
4. Personally, I slather cam lobes with assy lube and when I run engine, start, get timing right and run at 2k rpm for approx 10 minutes. This has always worked for me, others might have other ideas.
5. Yes, you can jack up rear and put trans in gear but, USE CARE this is a dangerous practice use jackstands.
2. Headers should fit, will most likely have to put them on 351 after it is in. Engine width difference should not matter on headers if true duals.
3. IIRC t/c nuts are 3/8-24 can't say about crossmember.
4. Personally, I slather cam lobes with assy lube and when I run engine, start, get timing right and run at 2k rpm for approx 10 minutes. This has always worked for me, others might have other ideas.
5. Yes, you can jack up rear and put trans in gear but, USE CARE this is a dangerous practice use jackstands.
#3
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For pulling it and installing it if I were to do it again on my 88 (granted I knew my trans was on its way out) I would have pulled the clip and took the engine and trans as a whole.
I would take the headers off just to be sure they don't get damaged. I plan to get pacesetter headers on my 302 but I don't plan to get them till I get my trick flow heads.
For the torque convertor nuts grab 4 off another truck in the junkyard. My local junkyard usually will give me bolts for free.
I am almost sure the C6 and M5OD have different mounts.
When I broke in my 302 with new comp flat tappet cam I held it at 2K-2500 rpm for 30 mins changed the oil out fired it up and drove it like I normally would then changed the oil at 500 miles. I have a little over 800 miles on my engine with no issues at all from it. Of course set the timing before you bring it up. I also checked the timing later to be sure of no issues. Assembly lube is extremely important in my opinion. Also I am using a zinc additive on every one of my oil changes for the few dollars it costs each change to keep my $178 cam in good shape along with the rest of the motor it is worth it.
I am almost sure it won't shift each gear when jacked up. I would say drive it. Also my C6 shifted fine each gear but it would hesitate going into gear every once in a while which is why I got a new one to rebuild.
Trav
I would take the headers off just to be sure they don't get damaged. I plan to get pacesetter headers on my 302 but I don't plan to get them till I get my trick flow heads.
For the torque convertor nuts grab 4 off another truck in the junkyard. My local junkyard usually will give me bolts for free.
I am almost sure the C6 and M5OD have different mounts.
When I broke in my 302 with new comp flat tappet cam I held it at 2K-2500 rpm for 30 mins changed the oil out fired it up and drove it like I normally would then changed the oil at 500 miles. I have a little over 800 miles on my engine with no issues at all from it. Of course set the timing before you bring it up. I also checked the timing later to be sure of no issues. Assembly lube is extremely important in my opinion. Also I am using a zinc additive on every one of my oil changes for the few dollars it costs each change to keep my $178 cam in good shape along with the rest of the motor it is worth it.
I am almost sure it won't shift each gear when jacked up. I would say drive it. Also my C6 shifted fine each gear but it would hesitate going into gear every once in a while which is why I got a new one to rebuild.
Trav
#4
Since I gotta go back to the yard to get a carb throttle cable bracket as well as the cable itself I'll see if I can find a Ford out there with a C6 I can rob some nuts from soon as well. Either that or I just stop at the local nut store and grab some as per the other users statement. was also thinking to that I have no idea if the yoke that goes into the M5OD will fit in the c6 either come to think of it, if it does fit then if I gotta change the length then I have no worry's there as dad does them allot for a local shop for dirt cheap.
#5
#6
I am currently in the process of putting a carbed "84 351W and C-6 into an '89 F250 that previously had a 302/M5OD but both are 4X4. We pulled the front clip off and put engine and trans. (minus Transfer case) in as one piece. We installed the motor mount bolts with the trans. supported, then jacked up the rear of the trans, and slide the crossmember in,.We used the '84 crossmember and as luck would have it, the bottom crossmember holes lined up with 2 existing holes in the frame rail. We haven't yet installed upper crossmember supports so don't know how far luck will go as far as using existing holes. Since mine is 4X4, your crossmember situation may differ.
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