NEW A/C mod question.
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 395
Likes: 0
From: Western Caribbean.
NEW A/C mod question.
Hi guys, long time reader back again.
I am looking at the MAX A/C mod, installing the valve to shut off the heater core from the route for water that somehow makes the A/C run cooler. I am not very familiar with the chiller system but am wondering whether I can simply bypass the heater altogether? It seems there's a vacuum operated valve in the modification that would open or close the heater core water flow, but if I know I absolutely NEVER, ever need to use the heater, could I just cap off one or both of those hoses?
Sorry for my ignorance and thanks in advance for any pointers.
I am looking at the MAX A/C mod, installing the valve to shut off the heater core from the route for water that somehow makes the A/C run cooler. I am not very familiar with the chiller system but am wondering whether I can simply bypass the heater altogether? It seems there's a vacuum operated valve in the modification that would open or close the heater core water flow, but if I know I absolutely NEVER, ever need to use the heater, could I just cap off one or both of those hoses?
Sorry for my ignorance and thanks in advance for any pointers.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 13
Hi guys, long time reader back again.
I am looking at the MAX A/C mod, installing the valve to shut off the heater core from the route for water that somehow makes the A/C run cooler. I am not very familiar with the chiller system but am wondering whether I can simply bypass the heater altogether? It seems there's a vacuum operated valve in the modification that would open or close the heater core water flow, but if I know I absolutely NEVER, ever need to use the heater, could I just cap off one or both of those hoses? Sorry for my ignorance and thanks in advance for any pointers.
I am looking at the MAX A/C mod, installing the valve to shut off the heater core from the route for water that somehow makes the A/C run cooler. I am not very familiar with the chiller system but am wondering whether I can simply bypass the heater altogether? It seems there's a vacuum operated valve in the modification that would open or close the heater core water flow, but if I know I absolutely NEVER, ever need to use the heater, could I just cap off one or both of those hoses? Sorry for my ignorance and thanks in advance for any pointers.
Others use the Single Valve
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 395
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From: Western Caribbean.
Hey, thanks for the response Tom. I have seen the kits that are available but I was guessing that the vacuum valve operates in order to either open or close the routing through the heater core??? I was wondering if I just skip that whole step and just disconnect the heater core, would it give me the same result? I know that where I live I will never need the heater so would be more than happy to just bypass it but don't know if bypassing the heater core water loop will give me the same results in the A/C improvement?
Sorry if I'm not explaining myself very well.
Sorry if I'm not explaining myself very well.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 13
Yes it will. No heated coolant will travel through the exchanger under the dash.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
If you never need the heater, then there is no problem bypassing the heater core. Just cut the both hoses going to the heater core and joint them together.
A small piece of pipe or a hose barb coupler with 2 hose clamps will joint the hoses together and just route the coolant back to into the motor.
I'd do the same for the two hoses that go to the heater core just to keep the inside clean on the outside chance you need the heater later. You'll have all the pieces to put it back to normal if you need to.
I used to do this on my 64 pick up because the blend door wouldn't shut all the way and it was easier to just bypass the heater core in the summer than it was to fix the blend door.
A small piece of pipe or a hose barb coupler with 2 hose clamps will joint the hoses together and just route the coolant back to into the motor.
I'd do the same for the two hoses that go to the heater core just to keep the inside clean on the outside chance you need the heater later. You'll have all the pieces to put it back to normal if you need to.
I used to do this on my 64 pick up because the blend door wouldn't shut all the way and it was easier to just bypass the heater core in the summer than it was to fix the blend door.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 282
Likes: 0
As stated, if you are never going to need the heater you can just bypass it by connecting the hoses together. If you are interested in doing the valve, here is an old thread about it and I have pictures of my install on page 2 I believe.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pictures.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-pictures.html
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 395
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From: Western Caribbean.
Yeh, thanks Chris, Tom, that's exactly what I wanted to know. Chris, when you say cap the htr core, can that be done on the front side of firewall or does it have to be done inside?
Cheers guys, appreciate all the help. You rock.
Cheers guys, appreciate all the help. You rock.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 7,760
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From: Hampton, Maryland.
The only con to what you want to do is, your defrost will not work for you. I know you are in the Caribbean, but When it is hot, and raining, I REALLY like my defroster to work...
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2014
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From: Dustbowl, NV
You could also get a couple of ball valves (think garden hose), put them in the heater lines and shut them off. Then just open them if needed for defrosting, etc. Best of both worlds, and easily reversible! 
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Just one ball valve will work since it will shut off the flow.
When I mentioned capping off the lines, I meant under the hood. The easiest way to do it is just cut the 2 lines going to the heater core under the hood and join the two ends coming from the engine together to recirculate the coolant. Then join the two ends that go the heater core together to seal it off from outside elements, or cap them off so to speak.
When I mentioned capping off the lines, I meant under the hood. The easiest way to do it is just cut the 2 lines going to the heater core under the hood and join the two ends coming from the engine together to recirculate the coolant. Then join the two ends that go the heater core together to seal it off from outside elements, or cap them off so to speak.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,500
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From: South Carolina
In your shoes, this is my choice. Open it when raining and close for sunshine. This may be the easiest choice as well.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 395
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From: Western Caribbean.
I think we have a winner. The new A/C mod for warmer climates is a ball valve in the heater core line. Now, since it is still oh-dark-thirty, what size, ID is that rubber tubing?
Thanks all for your answers.
Thanks all for your answers.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 588
Likes: 13
You can pick the valve and some Barb Ends with a couple Worm Clamps and it should work.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
My truck has a vacuum operated valve for max A/C that is supposed to shut off flow through the heater core but is more like an obstruction that restricts flow. I did the "Ranger valve" version. I don't know if mine is the exception but my valve leaks when it is closed so I have disconnected the vacuum line. When I replace my degas bottle I will be pulling that valve off and going with the single ball valve to keep it simple, stop the leak, and maximize the cold from the vents.