Single Stage Urethane Overspray Problems
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 774
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From: Simsbury, Connecticut
Single Stage Urethane Overspray Problems
Hi folks - my first post over on this side of the FTE.
I'm painting my '56 F500 with Eastwood's Jaded Green SSU. I'm a novice painter. I can lay a beautiful finish but I'm having difficulty with overspray getting on areas I've just painted, virtually ruining the gloss finish.
I'm going to wet sand with 500 then 600 grit and repaint. So...
I want to tape and mask areas so I can complete one small section at a time. I'd like to know what a safe cure period is so I can paint a section, let it dry, then mask that newly painted section off and move to the next. I just don't want to damage the new paint with the tape and mask.
By the way the Jaded Green is stunning. At least when it's glossy.
Thanks in advance!
I'm painting my '56 F500 with Eastwood's Jaded Green SSU. I'm a novice painter. I can lay a beautiful finish but I'm having difficulty with overspray getting on areas I've just painted, virtually ruining the gloss finish.
I'm going to wet sand with 500 then 600 grit and repaint. So...
I want to tape and mask areas so I can complete one small section at a time. I'd like to know what a safe cure period is so I can paint a section, let it dry, then mask that newly painted section off and move to the next. I just don't want to damage the new paint with the tape and mask.
By the way the Jaded Green is stunning. At least when it's glossy.
Thanks in advance!
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Are you talking about overspray on a panel you just painted after you have moved to the next panel. I can paint a truck bed all at once in one go around and then let flash and do a second coat. Theoretically overspray should melt into the painted surface if that surface hasn't flashed off too fast. What temp is the air and what reducer are you using? Reducer controls your drying time to allow the paint to flow out and level.
Anyway many paints say that @ 77 degrees you can tape off after 6 hours. As far as sanding stick with 600 and forget the 500 as there is not enough difference between the two. In fact you could use 400 as SS urethane would cover 400 scratch. Oh, are you sanding after one coat of paint? Remember that Ford in the 60's used acrylic enamel at 3-3.5 mils and the paint lasted longer on their cars than Mopar or GM. Good paint and not too many layers.
Anyway many paints say that @ 77 degrees you can tape off after 6 hours. As far as sanding stick with 600 and forget the 500 as there is not enough difference between the two. In fact you could use 400 as SS urethane would cover 400 scratch. Oh, are you sanding after one coat of paint? Remember that Ford in the 60's used acrylic enamel at 3-3.5 mils and the paint lasted longer on their cars than Mopar or GM. Good paint and not too many layers.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 10
From: Simsbury, Connecticut
Thank you for the reply.
Yes that's correct. As an example, I painted the interior which is basically a massive chunk of sheet metal. No fancy trim pieces in this "work truck." I painted the dash last before moving to the outside. No glass and no doors are on. I started at the front of the roof and worked my way back. My once glossy dashboard now has overspray and feels like sandpaper. Now I have a nice roof and crappy interior.
Can let it cure out and use clay to smooth it a bit? In the sun the paint is beautiful. The flakes are laid nice and flat. Just don't run your hands across it.
I got Eastwoods medium activator. I really wish I had picked up the slow activator. The medium dries much too quickly for me. I probably should have reduced the paint too. I didn't buy the reducer...
Oh well live and learn.
Note: Heated garage at 73.
Yes that's correct. As an example, I painted the interior which is basically a massive chunk of sheet metal. No fancy trim pieces in this "work truck." I painted the dash last before moving to the outside. No glass and no doors are on. I started at the front of the roof and worked my way back. My once glossy dashboard now has overspray and feels like sandpaper. Now I have a nice roof and crappy interior.
Can let it cure out and use clay to smooth it a bit? In the sun the paint is beautiful. The flakes are laid nice and flat. Just don't run your hands across it.
I got Eastwoods medium activator. I really wish I had picked up the slow activator. The medium dries much too quickly for me. I probably should have reduced the paint too. I didn't buy the reducer...
Oh well live and learn.
Note: Heated garage at 73.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
When I painted my truck I did the cab interior separate from the cab exterior. First the interior and then masked off the interior to do the exterior including jambs.
If it is light overspray on the dash, I kind of doubt it though, one can use a clay bar. Generally works for overspray farther from where you were painting and as such it didn't have a chance to melt into the surface a little. More like small grit in the morning after the dew has dried off the vehicle.
If it is light overspray on the dash, I kind of doubt it though, one can use a clay bar. Generally works for overspray farther from where you were painting and as such it didn't have a chance to melt into the surface a little. More like small grit in the morning after the dew has dried off the vehicle.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 774
Likes: 10
From: Simsbury, Connecticut
When I painted my truck I did the cab interior separate from the cab exterior. First the interior and then masked off the interior to do the exterior including jambs.
If it is light overspray on the dash, I kind of doubt it though, one can use a clay bar. Generally works for overspray farther from where you were painting and as such it didn't have a chance to melt into the surface a little. More like small grit in the morning after the dew has dried off the vehicle.
If it is light overspray on the dash, I kind of doubt it though, one can use a clay bar. Generally works for overspray farther from where you were painting and as such it didn't have a chance to melt into the surface a little. More like small grit in the morning after the dew has dried off the vehicle.
I noticed my Campbell Hausfeld gun is NOT an HVLP which might explain a lot of my issues. Is there a major difference between a conventional gun and HVLP when it comes to overspray? If so I might also order a new gun.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: Vermont
Keep in mind overspray is overspray. A lot of overspray from a siphon gun will botch up previously sprayed panels as a little overspray from a HVLP gun will do the same. The answer? Don't get overspray on panels that aren't being painted. To do that you need to mask. Rolls of plastic I have in my shop accomplish that. Or quicky masking w/paper will do it also. Good luck! Gary
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Fleet Owner
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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Keep in mind overspray is overspray. A lot of overspray from a siphon gun will botch up previously sprayed panels as a little overspray from a HVLP gun will do the same. The answer? Don't get overspray on panels that aren't being painted. To do that you need to mask. Rolls of plastic I have in my shop accomplish that. Or quicky masking w/paper will do it also. Good luck! Gary
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 891
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From: Mayfield, KY
Keep in mind you don't want to sand any metallic single stage paint. This problem is why I like to do base coat clear coat. I can usually get a slick coat but will take 1500 and wet sand the peel off and finish with a buff for that show finish gloss. I don't paint enough to be able to get is all slick everywhere.
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