Does anyone here have the Infinity touch screen from DP-Tuner?

I've got an issue with my coolant readout. Its all over the place and nowhere accurate. I.E. -40°F at idle warmed up.

Is this problem relates to the tuner or is it a sending issue from a sender?

I did have an issue with my temp gauge dancing all over crazily for no reason. When it did its thing my fuel gauge read low. If I smacked the dash it would sometimes go back to normal and affect my speedo while it happened. Speedo would drop suddenly then come back.

I pulled the dash open and installed a new radio not too long ago and since then I haven't seen it dance so I assume its a loose wire.

 

On a Ford, "-40°F" on Scantool's indicates an "Open". Or, a loose wire as you have referred.

 

I'll make sure to double check my senders then. I'm aware theirs two. One on the water pump and I'm lost as to where the other is?

Oh I forgot to mention the second coolant sender I can select slowly creeps around with no aim/end. At cold start it does show somewhat reasonable if I remember. I haven't checked it in a while but after a point just goes off the deep end. Not sure what the point is.

 

Do you have a Manual Transmission?

 

Automatic sadly.

 

Then you have just one ECT Sending Unit from the Factory.

 

The coolant sensor 10884 above is connected to the dash, nothing else. Your Infinity cannot see it. If you had a manual truck with the additional coolant sensor connected to the PCM the Infinity would display a reading.

The dash gauge is not an accurate reading, it is designed to say "all good down here Cap'n!" as long as the temps are within normal parameters. Same deal with the trans temp gauge. If they show hot, take it seriously.

If you want a real reading of engine temp tune your Infinity to engine oil temp. That is what the PCM uses. Only when it warms up to a certain temp (I forget the number) will the PCM give full fueling to the injectors. If you can set a high and low alarm on the Infinity I'd do that. When the light goes out you have full power.

 

Good to know! Yes I can set Alarms. I have the Oil Temp listed on screen. 80F is the default low which I left alone and 225F is the high which I haven't moved either. It gives me visual and vocal warning.

I was asking due to watching my oil temp approach warning a few times and it had me worried. Now I know!

 

Your EOT, AIT, ECT, should all be very close to ambient temperature when the vehicle sits overnight. This will let you know within some reasoning the sensors are somewhat accurate.

ECT should be determined with an additional gauge and an IR Thermometer. The ECT plays no roll on A/T equipped vehicles in the PCM Start / Run Strategy. However, it is key on a M/T for smooth operation.

Just as important is the Voltage of the sensor at the same time. This also helps identify inconsistently as well.

BARO: 5 volts in, @4.6 volts/14.7 psi at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases.

EBP: 5.0 volts in, 0.8-1.0 volts/14.7 psi

EOT: 5.0 volts in, 4.37 volts@32°F, 1.37volts@176°F, .96volts@205°F. PID: EOT (degrees)

EPR: Exhaust Back Pressure Regulator, also EBP regulator Output: For quicker engine warm-up at cold temperatures. If the IAT is below 37°F (50°F some models) and the EOT is below 140°F (168° some models) the PCM sends a duty cycle signal to a solenoid which controls oil flow from the turbo pedestal. This causes a servo to close a valve at the turbo exhaust outlet. The PCM monitors the EBP input to determine if the EPR needs to be disabled to provide power for increased load, then reapplies the EPR as load demand decreases until EOT or IAT rises.

IAT: 5 volts in, 3.897volts@32°F, 3.09@68°F, 1.72@122°F.

ICP: 5 volts in, 1.0volt@580psi, and 3.22volts@2520psi.

EXBP 10-15psig w/ EBPV closed and not exceed 45psi at WOT Note: EXBP showing low (3-5psi) that barley rises with acceleration indicates bad sensor or plugged tube.

These are "key" to the smooth operation of our 7.3L

 

Thanks! I'll keep this for reference if I ever need it.

As far as I can tell the only gauge not working is my ECT through my Infinity and now I know why. The dash works just not the computer readout because there is none!

Even my AIT readout is close. Usually about 10F over or a little more of ambient.

I'm going to get a stand alone gauge as soon as possible for ECT. I'll be sure to check my oil cooler and radiator as well for the inconsistencies in oil temp.

 

Took the words out of my mouth. This is exactly true. There is no ECT input on the PCM for Auto trucks. You will always get a crazy reading when trying to watch it through OBDII.

The tune will depend on when you have full power. With our tunes, you will get to full power when EOT is around 150*.

Check out this temp kit we offer to add to your Infinity...

Infinity Temperature Sensor Kit 5226-2252 - Programmers - Chips, Programmers and Tuning - 1994.5 - 2003 Powerstroke 7.3L Truck - Ford Powerstroke

 

Engine Coolant Temperature is a phantom number on an Automatic - it does not exist on the OBDII port for any OBD gauge to read. Nothing to see here. If you want to know what the ECT is, you need an aftermarket gauge/sensor or an IR gun.

 

You can get a gauge Set for as little as $15 or as high as $400+

$15.99 Shipped





$300.00 Kit

 

Thinking about going with the Glowshifts and was wondering where to mount the Engine Coolant Temp sensor? I have a Coolant filter mounted, so the port under the T-stat is used. I really don't want to mount it to the coolant filter, since I want to monitor the engine temp and not the coolant filter temp. Would the block drain be a good location?

 

I wouldn't worry about it, mine runs around 225 pulling my trailer or running about 70mph. I would set your gauge to alarm around 240.

ECT doesn't work on a manual either. -20 when EOT around 40deg and 300deg when EOT is 100...