Originally Posted by Slash19

Got the part number from this thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ensor-fyi.html.

Says it works on his truck which is same year as mine and he also posted pictures of it side by side with the old one.

Originally Posted by carguy3j

Interesting. Let us know how it works.
To me, the hole looks very different. I don't quite see how the "stud" from your pedal will properly fit/engage that sensor.

Also, the "correct" sensor, and this one you found both existed at the same time in the Ford "world" as current production components back then. Why? Ford deliberately designed, sourced, produced, cataloged, and stocked 2 different parts. If they were interchangeable and performed exactly the same function, why would they do that? It may not seem like much, but using that Ford part# in the thread you linked, which already existed when the SuperDuty was created, could have potentially saved Ford millions of dollars, vs creating a whole new part for the SuperDuty pedal assembly. There must have been a valid reason for doing so.

That old thread sort of fizzled out. I wonder if anyone ever did a detailed comparison, electrically. Do the SuperDuty APS sensor parts and this other "incorrect" TPS have the exact same electrical characteristics and outputs?

I realize Ford, and other OEMs, do stupid things all the time. So, maybe this other TPS really would be/is fine, and Ford really did re-design/create a new sensor for nothing. I'm all for mixing/matching parts when it offers an improvement and works correctly. I just don't see the "proof" that this does.

Originally Posted by Slash19

Well as you suspected the part didn't work. I got absolutely no throttle response when installed. I ordered the Dorman one and installed it today, and although it technically worked I still have the same symptoms. Idles fine, but when put in gear it idles a little rough and then goes very slow and tops at 1000 RPM. HPOP pressure gets to about 1600-1800 but I can't get it to WOT, but if I floor it this is what I see. I still get the P0221 SES code. Could it be the IVS instead? Or should I be checking somewhere else?

Originally Posted by Gratzanthony

Did you ever figure out what was the problem???

Originally Posted by Slash19

I have an early 99 Ford F350 7.3, automatic, with a Garrett GTP38R and 235k miles. My truck starts and idles fine. There is no smoke and you can rev the engine and watch the RPM's move accordingly. As soon as you put it in gear to drive and press the throttle the truck has very little to no power and the RPM gauge hardly moves. If I back out of the driveway and try to pull back in on a slight angle the truck does not have enough power to get back up. It does the same thing through all gears including reverse. I was getting black smoke coming from the exhaust when I pressed the throttle but was going no where. Several of you had me check the up pipes and anywhere else for a turbo leak. My up pipe on the passenger side was completely shot. I replaced both sets of up pipes with the bellowed style ones. While I had the turbo off I went ahead and did a EBVP delete on the pedestal as the solenoid was leaking oil. I also bought a new high flow outlet instead of cutting out the butterfly and plugging it. I replaced the oil o-rings on the bottom and top of the pedestal along with the o-ring at the front of the turbo. While checking the EBP tube it had a large hole in it so I replaced it and bought a new EBP sensor while I was at it. I also double checked all the tubes and made sure they were snug and nothing was leaking.

I felt confident that this was going to fix my problem but after getting everything back together I still have the exact same problem described above. The only thing that is not happening now is I am no longer getting black smoke coming out the exhaust when I press the throttle to go. I just do not have any power.

I was thinking possibly a fuel pressure issue but have also read some threads that could possibly be the HPOP. I checked the fuel filter and it looks clean but I will be buying a new one and replacing it anyways. I was going to purchase a fuel pressure gauge to start troubleshooting that but the threads I read said you need to check it under load also, but I cannot since my truck has no power. I thought about dropping the tank and checking the screens to see if they are clogged or dirty.

The only scanner I have is a OBDLink MX that I connect to my phone using Torque Pro or Dash Commander. I am not sure if those programs will get me the readings I need if you recommended any tests.

Any help or direction would be great. I do not want to keep throwing money at it for nothing. The work I already did I know needed to be done based on their condition so I do not feel it was all for waste. I did order a new dark blue CPS sensor from RiffRaff that should be here in a few days but I am not sure that a bad CPS sensor would cause my issues either from what I read.