Replacement radiator suggestion?
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Replacement radiator suggestion?
My truck has the original radiator in it and it has 2 small leaks between the fins, one large enough a tiny steady stream of coolant squirts out if I fill it up.
All the replacements I see listed have plastic tanks....is that ok? Is that the new standard or do you recommend something different?
What do you all think?
Thanks!
All the replacements I see listed have plastic tanks....is that ok? Is that the new standard or do you recommend something different?
What do you all think?
Thanks!
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OReiley's has some Murray brand ones that appear to do the job starting at $130 and up, not sure if anyone has an opinion on them.....I found some all aluminum Champions branded radiators that have anywhere from 2-4 rows and range in price from around $180-$260. Is looks the only real benefit from the all aluminum one? Found an all aluminum 3 row Champion (my stock one has 3 rows) for about $210. What do you all think?
Odd, I ran the truck about 30 min at idle and both leaks have disappeared. After putting the original radiator back in the truck (removed to replace waterpump and timing chain) it had 2 leaks I saw, one of which produced a constant tiny stream from a spot where the fins were crushed....but now even after cooling down for several hours, and removing the cap...both leaks have completely stopped. I will still replace the radiator, but kind of strange.
thx!
Odd, I ran the truck about 30 min at idle and both leaks have disappeared. After putting the original radiator back in the truck (removed to replace waterpump and timing chain) it had 2 leaks I saw, one of which produced a constant tiny stream from a spot where the fins were crushed....but now even after cooling down for several hours, and removing the cap...both leaks have completely stopped. I will still replace the radiator, but kind of strange.
thx!
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
The leaks happen when the engine is hot and the pressure comes up. So, just because it doesn't leak when cold doesn't mean it isn't bad. You run the engine hot, so it'll leak.
All-aluminum is the best way to go. Aluminum cools almost twice as good as brass/copper, and is a lot lighter to boot. Plastic tanks aren't as reliable as an aluminum one since plastic can age and get brittle - aluminum won't.
All-aluminum is the best way to go. Aluminum cools almost twice as good as brass/copper, and is a lot lighter to boot. Plastic tanks aren't as reliable as an aluminum one since plastic can age and get brittle - aluminum won't.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Technically speaking, the thermal conductivity of copper is actually almost twice that of aluminium, but aluminium allows for greater weight savings and so most of the copper radiator companies have folded their tents. More efficient designs have made them far more compact than the 60's era three row design as well. They are a lot cheaper than copper at least initially, because typically aluminium is not easily repairable.
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From: Northeast, OK
Interesting. I understand thermal conductivity and yet had never stopped to realize that copper conducts better than aluminum. Did a bit of research and found several things that support your statement, including this one: Aluminum radiators, the basics
So, the copper/brass radiators are of an older design, and it is actually the design and not the material that makes the biggest difference? And, since most (all?) radiators with the newer design are made in aluminum we equate the better efficiency with the material when it should be the design? As said, interesting. Thanks!
So, the copper/brass radiators are of an older design, and it is actually the design and not the material that makes the biggest difference? And, since most (all?) radiators with the newer design are made in aluminum we equate the better efficiency with the material when it should be the design? As said, interesting. Thanks!
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Hey Gary,
That is exactly my point, and why I thought the situation was odd. It leaked initially when I put the radiator in, before start, so cold....but stopped leaking once it got warm, still didn't leak when it got hot, and hasn't leaked since....checked it this morning when I got up...completely dry and no coolant loss. And it was definitely leaking before. It was shooting a steady stream right into the fan blades. Very odd.
Thanks to everyone on the radiator advice. From what you are saying with heat xfr I need to up the surface area by going with a 4 row? Or do you think am good a 3 row? Current factory is a 3 row, but if aluminum isn't as efficient, then maybe a 4 row would be needed to maintain current performance comparable to factory brass/copper. Although most of the reviews I read today were based on 3 row Champion and none said they had a cooling issue......
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Forgetting the thermal conductivity of the materials, my experience and what I've heard from others is that a new aluminum radiator cools better than a copper one of the same size. Apparently that is due to the newer design, but in any event I don't see the need to go larger.
Having said that, in my book there is no such thing as too large of a radiator.
Having said that, in my book there is no such thing as too large of a radiator.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Exactly, the new aluminium radiators are more efficient than the old school types. Gary and I were just getting off into the weeds on this stuff. sorry lol
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