I clogged my oil cooler without chemicals, so either way be prepared to swap it. If turns out that it needs to be replaced it isn't that bad of a job if that's all you are doing.

 

I can only give you my experience.

I did not do a chemical flush when I did mine, but I think the owner before me did, however he could not remember what coolant he put back in (it looked like ford gold). So I just did a good distilled water flush and refill with the EC-1. One thing I did do is strain what came out through a coffee filter and got nothing. Lastly, and I am in the minority, I do not run a coolant filter since the coolant is clean.

Personally I think your on the right track. Most importantly is to watch those temps and if they get too far apart then you do an oil cooler.

.

 

I think I'm going to go ahead and use the Fleetgaurd Restore because the stated purpose of it is to remove silicates and "goo" left behind by the Ford Gold Coolant. If the PO has maintained the cooling system per the PM schedule, I'm sure there would be no problem. But not knowing, I think this is the safe course. I'll hold off on the VC-9 until/unless I find that it is needed. I'm a little concerned about my delta, cruising at 75 on the way to work, it holds steady at about 10 or 11. But when I slow down to 60 or below, it will go to about 13 until the oil cools down a little after I get into town. Then the delta will drop to less than 10. I'd like to see those temps stay at 10 of less difference. We'll see what they do after the flush.

I've been looking at oil cooler kits. I'm planning to stick with OEM.

 

I have the exact same truck as you. My deltas with a brand new cooler are exactly the same as yours. If I drive 65 mph with little to no load, it will hold 10-11 degrees. Slow to 60, about 1800 rpm and the temp will drop to 8. It will almost immediately cool to within 4 when at a stop light. When towing 10k I'll see in upwards of 16 degrees, unless there is a large hill. Then I've seen over 20. The highest I've ever seen was with my EGR cooler installed and the cooling fan went inoperative. It hit 250 before I shut it down. The "never exceed" oil temp for these is 253. I now have a egr cooler delete, but still have the EGR valve in and I see up to 11 degrees regularly in various traffic levels.

I'm not too concerned about it if the oil temp cools back fast, as the EGR cooler was the subject of all the cooler "delta" measurements. If the oil cooler was getting too hot, it was sending super heating coolant to (or starving) the egr cooler and resulting in a crack.

If you do plan on changing your cooler, definitely flush the coolant first, then change it.

 

Why not go with the BPD cooler to avoid future problems? Just wondering. It seems that's what everyone does and recommends, even Ford.

 

I would love to be able to do that, but I'm not prepared to spend that kind of money at this time. I won't be towing anything in the near future. We plan to buy an RV but that probably won't be for a year or so. Right now I'd like to concentrate on the basics, looking towards the EGR delete being my first big project. As time and funds permit I'll work towards upgrading my oil cooler. Am I looking at this the wrong way?

I'm going to start another thread soon to document my progress on this truck. Keeping everything in a "Nervous about buying..." thread doesn't seem right, since I've already bought, and I'm no longer nervous. Loving my truck now.

 

Restore... it may remove the left over's and catch them in what... the coolant filter you have installed? Even then it only filters a part of the coolant, not a 100% filter. Anything it breaks loose needs to go somewhere, your oil cooler will more than likely, for lack of a better term, "work nicely".

I'd be very nervous about flushing with VC-9 or Restore or actually any chemical to break loose anything. Save your money, buy the IPR delete and everything you need for an OEM oil cooler replacement and then flush with chemicals.... JUST before you pull the oil cooler to replace it.

The EGR delete isn't really a big job, done in a good days time and then that 11* spread won't be nearly as important to tackle right away. They are not that expensive and most anybody capable of pulling a wrench can do it... where my money would go first, right after a distilled water only flush.

More than a few guys here did some sort of a chemical flush and clogged the oil cooler, even with coolant filters in place (it's a bypass filter), you very likely may do exactly that.

The real test is 15 minutes or so at full operating temps on level ground about 65mph with no load or tow. Not 75, or up hills or some longhorns in the trailer. IF it comes back at 8-10* with those parameters, flush with distilled until its completely clear, replace with EC-1 rated coolant and more than likely your deltas will drop based on the more efficient coolant type. Drive and enjoy that nice looking rig!

 

That sounds like a good plan Watson:

1. Distilled water only flush; refill with ELC and distilled water. I have everything to do that (Zerex ZXED1).
   
2. EGR delete.
   
3. Chemical flush before replace oil filter replacement.

It's lunch time, so I'm going out to check the temps on a steady 65 MPH run for 15 minutes or so. I'll post results when I get back. What did you mean by IPR delete? Was that a mistype?

 

its a brand, they make a good product.

pull the lower radiator hose when you flush for the first flush. Should get about 3 gallons out of the truck if you remove the drivers side block drain and radiator plug. Pull the thermostat, fill it with tap water for the first 3-5 flushes. Then flush with distilled another 3-5 times and/or the fluid is clear. Pull the block drain and drain the radiator, add thermostat with new o-ring and fill with 3 gallons of straight coolant (concentrate) as some water is left behind (about 3 gallons you can't get) top off with distilled. Should get you near 50/50 mix.

If you pull the thermostat you won't need to drive the truck until it opens (190*) to circulate the coolant, put in radiator plug, block drain and fill. Run the truck in the driveway 5 minutes, drain, fill and repeat. About a 2 hour job without leaving the driveway... don't forget the o-ring.

Google the IPR delete.
Lets see the numbers.
Randy

 

This is the highest temps I reached. It was right after I turned around (after the 15 min. run) and accelerated up to speed. Sorry for the glare, the temps are 191* and 200*.)



But for the most part, these were the temps on relatively flat highway.



My water temp rarely hits 190* (77* outside today,) I wonder if my thermostat is working properly?

 

But does it stay above say 185 once warmed up? If not it is time for a new T-stat. You might even get closer between oil and water. Your temp spread looks good. Skip the chemicals and just flush and swap to EC-1 rated coolant.

Then monitor your temps and don't worry about an oil cooler job until you need one!

Oh yeah, and I want to see pictures of that coolant filter installed!

 

Will do. It's going to be another week or so until I get the mount fabbed. The welding shop down the street from work is going to do it for me. At least it will be done before we go to Ft. Worth to see TCU play. That's a nice 500 mile or so round trip.

Not always 185 but close. It does seem to run a little cool, and takes a long time to get up to temp.

 

You'll get different opinions on this, but if it is within a couple of degrees of 185 I'd leave it for now. If it gets too cool you'll lose fuel mileage. Some forks swear by going to a 200 degree thermostat (there's a ginormous thread about the Mishimoto 200 deg stat), I personally am not in that camp...

I think the fact you are watching the temps puts you in the 5% of 6.0 owners club! Let's see how the truck does after you change to EC-1 and also on a warmer day...

Have a fun trip!