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So today I was leaving a Dr appt and the cel came on. I had my OBD Link in so i scanned the codes and came up with injector circut low on all 8 cylinders. My FICM is running at 47.5-48 when cold then drops to 34 when the motor starts. Running down the road it fluctuates between 35-44 volts. From what I have read it sound like the FICM is starting to go. Can somebody confirm this for me? Any other possibilities I should look at? The truck is a 2003 F250 with 143k on it.
This is my first diesel so I'm not quite up with all the parts lingo but I am a former auto mechanic so i do know my whay around under the hood a little bit.
It's toast.Check your batteries individually and your alternator. Your contributing factor to the FICM going south was one of them. Call Ed @FICM repair .com and get her done
But everyone is right the FICM is cooked. and needs service.
Ed at FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
They do more than toss parts at it. Also they use a good quality
part and replace more than just the one or two bad resistor.
Visit the site and you can read what they do.
Thanks for the responses guys....the only question now is to upgrade to the 58 volt or not...
Also the batteries were replaced by Ford when i bought the truck in February. I will test them but I'm guessing that the alternator is the culprit.
Ed is a great guy! He will take the time to make his customers happy which is why I will go back to him. Bullet proof also makes an FICM which seems .......well bulletproof, but it comes with a pretty steep price tag.
I don't think a single company that makes FICMs or repairs them can garranty they will never break. They may go through every part, circuit board, resistor and, you get the idea... you loose an alternator or batteries and voltage supplying that FICM, its toast. The warranty may cover repair, like EDs but your going to pay for it.
Good question. I have often wondered what the big deal is with going 58V but I do hear starts are a really nice and they "seem" to make the truck run better.
Originally Posted by BryanStein
I would not go with the 58 volt FICM. Who says the injectors will like 58 vs 48 volts? Just no need.
If you or a friend are handy with a soldering iorn, there are instructions in the tech folder on how to repair a FICM. If you're familiar with that sort of work it isn't a hard job. Relatively inexpensive "power boards" are also available at many parts stores. Poor quality but maybe the right answer in an emergency. Ford gets a nice chunk of change for a new FICM assembly plus you'll need to get the trucks software updated for the FICM to work. Last time I heard, close to an $800 repair and the new one has the same issues as the one you're replacing. I've saw a couple posts saying the power board is available separately from Ford now, but I haven't researched that.
If you attempt to repair it yourself, be careful not to overheat the board, it heats up quickly with a standard soldering iorn and once it delaminates its trash.
Given all those possibilities, like the rest of the guys are thinking, I'd ship it off to Ed. There are a couple other good options for repair but Ed has been with us a long time, does a great job, and on the very few occasions there was an issue he's been super quick to make it right. Beside all that, he's a great guy and has nice legs. The affected components will be tested/replaced and unlike a simple re-solder it will be bench tested and warrantied. Another plus with a professional repair is the software options, economy, factory spec, and two levels of power upgrades are available.
I'd skip the 58v option. It plays on the the "more is better" mentality most of us have but it hasn't been demonstrated to provide any significant benefit. The wiring, circuit board and coils in the spool valves were all designed and sized to operate at 48v. The extra power makes more heat which is the origonal issue that causes failure. Many OBDII diagnostic devices report a 58v FICM as 48-50v, that makes it hard to keep track of its health later and there are no specs on exactly when it would need repaired if voltage begins dropping off in the future.
One thought on the 58v idea. Anyone the breakdown voltage of the coils?
Sort of like running a 120V lamp at 130V. It will work but the life will be
shortened by a large amount.
I won't be around the rest of the night. Mom fell an is at the ER.
I guess the thinking is more power makes a stronger field and moves the spool more forcefully. Maybe that would help if there was a stiction issue? I've got no idea about the how much voltage the coil can handle but a 20% increase seem like it would eat up a good chunk of any built in safety margin.
If you or a friend are handy with a soldering iorn, there are instructions in the tech folder on how to repair a FICM. If you're familiar with that sort of work it isn't a hard job. Relatively inexpensive "power boards" are also available at many parts stores. Poor quality but maybe the right answer in an emergency. Ford gets a nice chunk of change for a new FICM assembly plus you'll need to get the trucks software updated for the FICM to work. Last time I heard, close to an $800 repair and the new one has the same issues as the one you're replacing. I've saw a couple posts saying the power board is available separately from Ford now, but I haven't researched that.
If you attempt to repair it yourself, be careful not to overheat the board, it heats up quickly with a standard soldering iorn and once it delaminates its trash.
Given all those possibilities, like the rest of the guys are thinking, I'd ship it off to Ed. There are a couple other good options for repair but Ed has been with us a long time, does a great job, and on the very few occasions there was an issue he's been super quick to make it right. Beside all that, he's a great guy and has nice legs. The affected components will be tested/replaced and unlike a simple re-solder it will be bench tested and warrantied. Another plus with a professional repair is the software options, economy, factory spec, and two levels of power upgrades are available.
I'd skip the 58v option. It plays on the the "more is better" mentality most of us have but it hasn't been demonstrated to provide any significant benefit. The wiring, circuit board and coils in the spool valves were all designed and sized to operate at 48v. The extra power makes more heat which is the origonal issue that causes failure. Many OBDII diagnostic devices report a 58v FICM as 48-50v, that makes it hard to keep track of its health later and there are no specs on exactly when it would need repaired if voltage begins dropping off in the future.
I learned how to weld in high school ( I USED to be able to TIG two soda cans together...) which included soldering. It's been a while but I did look at the PDF if the tech folder, and it doesn't look too bad to due on my own. If I go that route I might have to go out and get one of those digital soldering irons, it sure beats the hell out of using my old pencil soldering iron, which i would most likely due what you said and delam the PCB
As far as the 58v vs 48v it was something I had seen while looking up my problem. AS stated above it is supposed to help with staring and somehow acceleration but at this point after listen to you guys on the subject I will wait and do a lot more research on it.
I guess the thinking is more power makes a stronger field and moves the spool more forcefully. Maybe that would help if there was a stiction issue? I've got no idea about the how much voltage the coil can handle but a 20% increase seem like it would eat up a good chunk of any built in safety margin.
Hope your Mom is ok Sean.
You know with the close to max on the resisters you never know
what the coils can take.
She broke her hip in the fall. Surgery in the AM. I will update later.
